Timing belt and water pump?
'95 850 GLT, 2.4L 5 cyl, nonturbo, automatic...my timing belt and water pump have 56K miles on 'em... 3.5 years. Think this is something I can handle? (I've changed half axles, alternators, serp belts, control arms, PCV system)
I'm assuming I do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt? And do I need to replace the timing tensioner and the pulley and everything (the whole kit?) Haynes has the thermostat right after the water pump... probably a good thing to do too?
also ...which water pump do I get?
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...136/by_year/45
Thanks guys.
I'm assuming I do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt? And do I need to replace the timing tensioner and the pulley and everything (the whole kit?) Haynes has the thermostat right after the water pump... probably a good thing to do too?
also ...which water pump do I get?
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...136/by_year/45
Thanks guys.
Last edited by TacklaNHL; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:06 PM.
How many miles does the car have on it? Has the water pump ever been changed before? I have heard people say that they have water pumps with over 250,000 miles on them.
As for the tensioners & pulleys... I would replace them every other belt, 150,000 miles or 10 years which ever comes 1st. Others would say, do them every time since you are saving a bundle on DIY. Once you remove the belt you can check the other stuff. If anything seem bad, replace it, especially if you think you will drive the car another 50,000 miles.
Just wondering, why are you replacing the t-blet at 56k?
As for the tensioners & pulleys... I would replace them every other belt, 150,000 miles or 10 years which ever comes 1st. Others would say, do them every time since you are saving a bundle on DIY. Once you remove the belt you can check the other stuff. If anything seem bad, replace it, especially if you think you will drive the car another 50,000 miles.
Just wondering, why are you replacing the t-blet at 56k?
The car has 220K miles on it.
The water pump and timing belt (along with the tensioner and pulley) were replaced at 164K.
Figured I was probably 2 oil changes away from needing a new timing belt... so I figured i'd start planning my attack... and then thought, hmmm, maybe i'll want do the water pump and thermostat at the same time...
The water pump and timing belt (along with the tensioner and pulley) were replaced at 164K.
Figured I was probably 2 oil changes away from needing a new timing belt... so I figured i'd start planning my attack... and then thought, hmmm, maybe i'll want do the water pump and thermostat at the same time...
change the pump! I had my eng out and did not do the pump, now the pump is leaking. I saw no signs of leakage when it was apart, and it was a Volvo pump. I have over 300,000 on the car and I seriously doubt it is the original. Just do it and you will know from this point forward what condition and miles are on it.
+1 Change the water pump while you are in there.
I changed a timing belt on a corolla a few years back and warned the owner that he should do the water pump at the same time. He did not heed my advice and ended up spending the same amount twice...3 days later.
I changed a timing belt on a corolla a few years back and warned the owner that he should do the water pump at the same time. He did not heed my advice and ended up spending the same amount twice...3 days later.
I have 213K on my white one and I just bought a new timing belt and got the Water PUmp for the first time on any Volvo I have ever owned. Figure that's enough miles on the original.
I am also considering doing it myself this time. I have a son and a son in law capable of doing it, but they seem so busy doing other things that I think I'll give it try myself. Either one of them can bail be out if I get stuck.
I know I won't mess it up, but not sure I can do it all myself. I know the main thing is put it back together and and turn it over with a breaker bar before hitting the starter. Finding the mark on the crank is a concern of mine. At my age I don't see things like I used to.
I am also considering doing it myself this time. I have a son and a son in law capable of doing it, but they seem so busy doing other things that I think I'll give it try myself. Either one of them can bail be out if I get stuck.
I know I won't mess it up, but not sure I can do it all myself. I know the main thing is put it back together and and turn it over with a breaker bar before hitting the starter. Finding the mark on the crank is a concern of mine. At my age I don't see things like I used to.
And back to the question... what water pump do I get? There are like 4 different options there. And other than "55" I don't know what my engine code is... or where to find something like it.
I got the Hepu water pump for my car based on recommendations from this board, including tech.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/95
As far as turning it over with a breaker bar, once you get it all back together and looks like it's in time, you literally put a big socket on the crank and turn it over two or three times by hand. You are seeing if it turns over smoothly which means it's in time. If it hits something, that means it's not in time and if you use the starter, you will bend valves. Trust me I've done it and bent valves. If you take the spark plugs out, it's it's easier to turn over, but not necessary.
There are instructions on how to do this in the Frequently Used Thread at the top of this forum. Here is the link from that thread:
http://www.autorepairdb.com/volvo/850/timingbelt1.html
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/95
As far as turning it over with a breaker bar, once you get it all back together and looks like it's in time, you literally put a big socket on the crank and turn it over two or three times by hand. You are seeing if it turns over smoothly which means it's in time. If it hits something, that means it's not in time and if you use the starter, you will bend valves. Trust me I've done it and bent valves. If you take the spark plugs out, it's it's easier to turn over, but not necessary.
There are instructions on how to do this in the Frequently Used Thread at the top of this forum. Here is the link from that thread:
http://www.autorepairdb.com/volvo/850/timingbelt1.html
Here is what I used when doing our 1996 850 (NA) sedan a couple weeks ago. I also used a lot of other parts, as I did all oil and oil pump seals in that area and the back side (minus the rear main seal), everything to do with the head gasket, and a major tune-up. (Tutorial coming sometime soon)
(from FCPGroton)
Part #272327 - Timing belt (Continental) - $29.99
Part #272476 - Water pump & gasket (Hepu) - $54.86
From what I have heard, both on here and local import parts places, Continental is the most reputable belt there is. Also, the salesman gave me a discount code for 10% off - "Miker1" (assuming it's ok to pass that on as it does bring them business).
Tracy
(from FCPGroton)
Part #272327 - Timing belt (Continental) - $29.99
Part #272476 - Water pump & gasket (Hepu) - $54.86
From what I have heard, both on here and local import parts places, Continental is the most reputable belt there is. Also, the salesman gave me a discount code for 10% off - "Miker1" (assuming it's ok to pass that on as it does bring them business).
Tracy
Like I said I just got it based recommendations on this board. I have no first hand knowledge since I have never changed a water pump on any of my Volvos before.
I just finished mine.
It went very well and I did everything myself, and I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. When I put it back together the exhaust cam was off just a little and I had to turn it back a notch.
It was rather time consuming, but I don't think it was any harder than changing the struts.
I followed the link I posted above and looked at the write-up on Bay 13 on volvospeed.com. The do differ stlightly about when to put the T-Belt tensioner on. Not really sure which is better. One says put it on before putting the belt on and the other says after. I put mine on after, but when the timing was off a little I took the belt off and had to put it back on after the tensioner was on, but the pin was not pulled. I turned it over about four times by hand before starting.
I did T-Belt, Water Pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and serpentine belt. Putting the serpentine belt back on was just as hard as the timing belt imo.
It started right up and runs fine.
It went very well and I did everything myself, and I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. When I put it back together the exhaust cam was off just a little and I had to turn it back a notch.
It was rather time consuming, but I don't think it was any harder than changing the struts.
I followed the link I posted above and looked at the write-up on Bay 13 on volvospeed.com. The do differ stlightly about when to put the T-Belt tensioner on. Not really sure which is better. One says put it on before putting the belt on and the other says after. I put mine on after, but when the timing was off a little I took the belt off and had to put it back on after the tensioner was on, but the pin was not pulled. I turned it over about four times by hand before starting.
I did T-Belt, Water Pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and serpentine belt. Putting the serpentine belt back on was just as hard as the timing belt imo.
It started right up and runs fine.
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