Timing Belt work completed... Have a question:
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Timing Belt work completed... Have a question:
Well, yesterday I replaced the timing belt on my Wagon. New style belt (later design '94). While I was in there I changed the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, plugs and serpentine belt. I can say that the bearings on the tensioner pulley and idler were definitely on their way out. This is to be expected with 140,530 miles I guess The timing belt looked very good, and it was changed at 72k by the previous owner. Also, I went with the longer serpentine belt with reroute (not by my original choice) around the alternator. Eeuroparts sent me that one, even though I ordered the old route one. Glad they did actually, because it does add for more contact on the alternator.
I got it done fine and it runs perfect. My question is for those that changed the tensioner pulley, how did you get the hex nut to loosen up? I ended up having to pound out the torx bit from a socket, cut it down with an air cut off tool and put it back into it's socket in order to get it broken loose with a 3/8" ratchet and still have a bit of clearance. Once I broke it loose, I then had to pound out the torx bit again and put it in an 8mm Gearwrench ratchet, for the bolt does not come out of the tensioner pulley (due to the washer) so it was impossible to do it by hand, and the 3/8" ratchet would lose clearance too quickly. It was really a pain in the bottom, but worked, eventually. I assume there is a better method out there?
As far as the special tool to release the tensioner on serpentine belt, if you remove the ECU box rear tube, you can buy a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter (one of three different in a set) for $3.99 at Northern Tool (or a Harbor Freight). Put it on a 1/2" breaker bar, and it worked great and it gives you a viable tool for future use Does anyone have picture of their adapter they made out of 1" tubing? I'm curious to see what they look like.
Good thing I really like this car and don't have to do this for another 70k miles
I got it done fine and it runs perfect. My question is for those that changed the tensioner pulley, how did you get the hex nut to loosen up? I ended up having to pound out the torx bit from a socket, cut it down with an air cut off tool and put it back into it's socket in order to get it broken loose with a 3/8" ratchet and still have a bit of clearance. Once I broke it loose, I then had to pound out the torx bit again and put it in an 8mm Gearwrench ratchet, for the bolt does not come out of the tensioner pulley (due to the washer) so it was impossible to do it by hand, and the 3/8" ratchet would lose clearance too quickly. It was really a pain in the bottom, but worked, eventually. I assume there is a better method out there?
As far as the special tool to release the tensioner on serpentine belt, if you remove the ECU box rear tube, you can buy a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter (one of three different in a set) for $3.99 at Northern Tool (or a Harbor Freight). Put it on a 1/2" breaker bar, and it worked great and it gives you a viable tool for future use Does anyone have picture of their adapter they made out of 1" tubing? I'm curious to see what they look like.
Good thing I really like this car and don't have to do this for another 70k miles
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