Okay, so I just got a 97 850 non turbo. Had a little problem with getting water in my spark plug holes but Tech helped me solve that though it is still acting up some missing. Tried to run in the dark to see if plug wires were arcing, no sign but her an arcing sound under the cover so suspect wires, they are original and have 140k on them. The BIG ITEM is I seem to have an oil leak at the rear main. Can see oil dripping out of the hole between the tranny (auto) and engine. Not good butfamily gift so can't complain. Thinking of doing it myself since I do most of my own work and this is a third car so down time is not an issue. What special tools would I need? Tranny lift, hoist, etc???? Tech mentioned an engine cradle in a previous post, where would you get that from? I had an 89 740 turbo years ago and dropped the subframe and pan to replace the oil pump so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Do those tranny adapters for floor jacks work okay?

I got a quote for about $650 to replace it from a tranny shop. I plan to clean the oil seperator box and flametrap hoses, etc first as it blows smoke out of the dipstick. Anyone ever stopped a leaking rear main by fixing the positive pressure problem or at least slow the leak? Tech, if you see this, the shop I quoted above mentioned that the seal can wear a groove in the crank that a new seal will not seal completly. Is that possible?

Sorry for the long post, still in quote shock!

Thanks,
Rob

97 850 non turbo automatic

 

I will look tomorrow to make the list of tools.

I have never seen a groove in the crank a new seal wouldn't seal.

 

Thanks Tech. Over the coming weeks I plan to replace the whole crankcase vent system and change the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I am also due for a new timing belt since I am sitting at 140k. There is quite a bit of oil streaming back almost to the rear of the car so I suspect the leak has been there for some time. [:@] After all of the basic PM I will tackle the rear main but would like to know what to "accumulate" for specialty tools in the mean time.
Thanks for any information you provide ahead of time,
Rob

 

I'm in the process of doing a sizeable PM overhaul myself aswell, from what I seen and done so far the only non common tool i need (but have) for this work is a puller for the Crank timing gear.

where are you getting your parts? I am expecting a pile of parts from FCP Groton, great prices there

my list includes timing belt, tensioner, water pump, 2 pulleys, 4 coolant hoses, exp tank cap, dist cap, rotor, plugs, oil sump oring kit, oil pump gasket set, cam seals, crank seals, sway bar link, headlight wiper blade, fuel door hinge, thermostat, intake & TB gaskets and more lil things that I can't think of right now but graet prices and services there for sure

-Mike

 

I have not ordered anything yet but FCP Groton had caught my eye too as I was looking at different parts sources. Sounds like you do have quite a bit of work ahead of you there. Unfortunately for me, my wife is really anxious to start driving this so I think I am going to have to deal with this in 3 stages. First will be the cap, rotor, wires and plugs to deal with the miss and CEL while at the same time replacing breather parts to relieve the positive pressure in the crankcase. Then will come the second stage of changing the timing belt. Last, I will deal with the rear main that I hope will be leaking less once I clear the breather issue. She drives about 12 miles to work and back so a slight leak will not kill me till I can really tackle it full force. There is a huge price difference on that rear seal if I am willing to do it myself. $20 part and a couple of weekends here and there versus anywhere from $600 to $950 including replacing the front tranny seal also as PM.

I am going to jump over and check on all my Stage 1 items at FCP Groton. I am out from work today sick so I might see if I can get things ordered and try to get them this weekend or next.

Rob

 

You will need alot of tool.
One Main one will be an engine Craddle that Sits above the engine.

The rest is pretty much Basic tools. You will need a good set of Torxes bits in sockets.

You will also need to drop the Subframe out of the car.

At home on Jackstands will take you about 2 days or so to get it changed out.

I will try to find a good set of instructions on doing it.

 

Tech,
Thanks for the information. If you find instructions that would be awesome!! When you say Engine Cradle, would that be something along the lines of a hoist or something to chain the engine to from above? I had to replace my oil pump on an 89 740 Turbo and fashion a support from above out of three 2 X 4 's fashioned in an 'H' shape to lie over the engine. The two sides of the H rested on the fenders and then I drilled a hole above the bracket on the engine to position an I bolt to secure chain to while I lowered the subframe. I had a really long bolt and could actually tighten the nut on the top and raise it up or down an inch or two. Would something like that work as a cradle? I actually used a 4 X 4 for extra strength. Something about wood supporting an engine while I was under it made me "extra cautious."

Here is a picture of what I created more or less. I borrowed the idea.

http://www.swedishbricks.com/700900F...0and%20Support

Thanks a million,
Rob

 

That will work but you will need a longer bolt. You will need about 8 to 10 inches of movement. You will need to drop the motor down to slide the transmission out.