tranny shifts hard....
#1
tranny shifts hard....
Hey guys its me again I have a 94 Volvo 850 turbo with a 115 k . When i got the car I noticed it had a tiny hard shift not terrible just enough to where you can feel It so i check the fluid it was pretty dark so i did the drain and flush 3 times with 2 quarts each time shifting through the gears for 5 seconds blah blah blah... Any ways it was ok for a week or so then I noticed its been shifting little bit harder then before and I can feel it downshift pretty good and it seems to be just 1st and 2nd upshifting and downshifting.
So i check the fluid it was nice and red but on the dipstick it goes about an inch past the hot/ full mark and when i was doing the change under the car i noticed a tiny little hole it at least it looked like a hole but it didn't look like hole that had been made from damage it was kinda smooth kinda squarish maybe 1/4" x 1/4" wondering if its normal...
Please help out on what could be wrong. Maybe to much fluid was added from a shop by the previous owner??? I put what I got out back in about 3.5 quarts and i used valvoline dex/merc please and thank you.
So i check the fluid it was nice and red but on the dipstick it goes about an inch past the hot/ full mark and when i was doing the change under the car i noticed a tiny little hole it at least it looked like a hole but it didn't look like hole that had been made from damage it was kinda smooth kinda squarish maybe 1/4" x 1/4" wondering if its normal...
Please help out on what could be wrong. Maybe to much fluid was added from a shop by the previous owner??? I put what I got out back in about 3.5 quarts and i used valvoline dex/merc please and thank you.
#4
#5
when the transmission is warm, the fluid level should be between min and max mark. but when its cold its normal for it to be above the max mark.did you go through the procedure for checking the fluid? did u run through all gears before checking for fluid level?you should drive the car till its warm, idle it and run through all gears and wait for a minute or two and pull the dipstick out.
#7
When its warm its an inch past hot/ max. I think whoever had it before me had it serviced somewhere and they probably put to much in. The hard shifting be cause by to much fluid? I'm gonna drain some out to get to where its suppose to be on the dipstick and go from there.
#8
You are definitely over full and should drain some out.
Make sure it's warmed up and that before you check it you slowly shift down and back up through all the gears stopping at each one for a couple seconds as you said you had done before. If it's a little over it's no big deal but an inch over sounds a little extreme.
Make sure it's warmed up and that before you check it you slowly shift down and back up through all the gears stopping at each one for a couple seconds as you said you had done before. If it's a little over it's no big deal but an inch over sounds a little extreme.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 02-09-2012 at 11:29 PM.
#9
#10
#11
I'd start with inspecting the vacuum lines - pop off the throttle spool cover to find the "vacuum tree". the lines should all be solid with no cracks and all the empty slots capped (you can buy a kit with replacement vaccuum line caps). If you find lines are popped off or uncapped, that may be a sign you have too much crank case pressure and your PCV system is clogged. Google for how to do a rubber glove test. SInce the car is new to you, I'd suggest a few things 1) to check the transmission fluid color/level. 2) consider doing a baseline "stage 0" tune - new cap/rotor/wires/plugs. Don't buy fancy plugs - old school copper core gapped to 028 work just fine in these cars. Best to pull off the airbox cover for easy access to the 3 screws holding down the distributor cap 3) Inspect for vaccuum leaks and any cracks air leaks in the tubing from the turbo to the throttle body plus the vacuum lines. The 95s don't use OBD2 but you can check for fault codes using the diagnostic box on the front right side of the engine by the passenger headlight. Google for directions on which port to jumper and how to press the button to scan for codes. Its also how you will reset the service reminder light.
#12
That sounds like good advice to me. The first one I ever had was afflicted with a hole in the big piping between the turbo and the throttle, and in particular this hole was in last rubber piece that hooks directly to the throttle. This throws off the MAF.
The car will run with the MAF unplugged (I don't know how) and if it runs *better* that way, then that would help you decide to hunt leaks, I think. Or not.
The car will run with the MAF unplugged (I don't know how) and if it runs *better* that way, then that would help you decide to hunt leaks, I think. Or not.
#14
A few thoughts 1) double check the level. Read up on the proper procedure for measuring the "warm" level. Side question - what fluid type did you use? 2) do a prescribed driving cycle. you may need to google for this. Some transmissions use fuzzy logic to determine shift points and you'd want to get this baselined with the fresh fluid. 3) you may have a sticky solenoid. not sure if replacing is worth the trouble or not. 4) Clean the connectors to the TCU and transmission. You can google around for related posts or read up on the Aisin AW50-42LE transmission and its controls.
here's a starting point: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/se...sDiagnosis.pdf
here's a starting point: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/se...sDiagnosis.pdf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post