That sounds good to me. What year is it from? I'll send a private message.

 

I never heard back from RSPI. Does anyone know if he is OK? Yes I am interested in the transmission but I really hope things are OK.

 

Is there procedure for or write up about removing the engine and tranny from the top? It seems like it would be easier.

 

That is pretty basic stuff. The shop manual would cover it, and you'll probably find lots of threads where somebody did choose to take and post pictures, and then they got hosed by photobucket. It's not difficult, I'll say that.


there is a 1995 850 shop manual at volvoclub uk https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_w...techdocs.shtml

 

I have been drive the car around and have noticed that as long as I am under 45 mph I do not have a problem but when I drive over 45 for any length of time it goes into "wrong speed selected". I am wondering if my issue could be a speed sensor and not require a trans swap.


'

 

I believe you could see road speed with a regular OBDII scan tool. if you had one good enough to see the transmission data on a volvo, then you could probably see all the data that the transmission is using, and figure it out from that.

 

My new/ used tranny arrived and looks good. I'll hopefully be doing that next weekend. In the meantime I'll be reading up on the easiest way to get the old one out and the new one in. If anyone has any insight on this project let me know. I am going to borrow a engine support bar from a friend of a friend so that should help.

 

Before I start this project I am wondering, what is a good place to set the jack stands? I usually use the sub frame connection points but of course I need to lower the sub frame.

 

I think the area where that reinforcement plate connects from the body to the rear subframe bolts would be ideal. I tend to pick 850s up by that area on the lift.

 

I have replaced transmissions before but this was the first front wheel drive that I have done. Front engine rear wheel drive I've done in a day. This took close to 3 days from start to back on the road. What a PITA. I did this in a gravel driveway and that did not help. If any one else is going to do this the biggest help was a engine support bar that goes from fender to fender to hold everything up. I found it easier after having the engine supported to just remove the sub frame completely. Also make sure you have some one to help, this is not a one person job. Getting into things this deep meant that I found other stuff that I will have to fix. I need one new oil cooler line and it looks like one of the oil seals in the turbo is leaking. Does anyone know a good place to have the turbo rebuilt?

 

AZ Turbo
(602) 253-9953

 

Thanks! I give them a call. I took the air tube off the turbo while doing the tranny and found oil on the fins and in the tube.

 

I never did figure out how to distinguish between oil exiting the PCV and oil leaking from the turbo. The turbo has to get oil going through it from the PCV. I guess when the oil consumption gets high enough you figure it has to be the turbo. If it was really bad I could figure it out with a simple experiment.

 

When I first start the car in the morning I get smoke for a while but it goes away. I know this is also caused by bad valve guide seals but the oil in the turbo made me think the turbo seals are leaking.

 

Before I dump the old tranny is there anything worth saving? I did put a new PNP switch on it so I'll grab that but is there anything else?

 

Perfect parts car.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto...588693912.html

 

I heard back from RSPI and he said to change the tranny fluid at 1000 miles. Is there a way to drain the torque converter with out removing it/ If I can't drain that I'll just drain what I can and refill it then do it again in a few hundred miles.