turning the rotors/high pitched squeal
#1
turning the rotors/high pitched squeal
I read on here somewhere that you are not supposed to get the rotors turned on a Volvo.never heard of such a thing. I read this 2 days after getting the fronts turned,plan on doing the rears this Saturday. I'm getting a real high pitched squeal when braking. if you brake semi-hard it does not squeal,just when you apply light to moderate pressure like when coming up to a stop sign or driving in city traffic. will turning the rotors help with the squeal?
#2
I have always been taught on Volvo's you do not cut them.
Now at the new job I am at I have to cut them as much as I hate it. But if I want to get paid I have to do it.(And I hate every minute of it)
You should get a set of half shims and install them on the backside of the rear pads and that should fix the squeel. Also are you running Volvo pads? If not then the noise might still be there after the shims.
Now at the new job I am at I have to cut them as much as I hate it. But if I want to get paid I have to do it.(And I hate every minute of it)
You should get a set of half shims and install them on the backside of the rear pads and that should fix the squeel. Also are you running Volvo pads? If not then the noise might still be there after the shims.
#4
When I first bought my '94 I had the rears turned and it lasted for a couple of months before they warped again. It cost me around $30.00 per rotor to have it done (drum side and rotor side) which is nearly the cost of a new rotor.
Just buy new rotors.
I was buying drilled Raybestos rotors from an outfit in Canada called UCautoparts but I notice that they no longer exist on eBay. All three of my 850s have the drilled rotors and I have had them on the oldest for 3 years or so with no signs of warping and I drive them very hard.
I have heard some bad things about the Brembos lately, I have heard they are now Chinese and are real junk compared to the originals. I have heard nothing bad about Zimmermans except the hole it leaves in your wallet.
My 2¢,
...Lee
Just buy new rotors.
I was buying drilled Raybestos rotors from an outfit in Canada called UCautoparts but I notice that they no longer exist on eBay. All three of my 850s have the drilled rotors and I have had them on the oldest for 3 years or so with no signs of warping and I drive them very hard.
I have heard some bad things about the Brembos lately, I have heard they are now Chinese and are real junk compared to the originals. I have heard nothing bad about Zimmermans except the hole it leaves in your wallet.
My 2¢,
...Lee
#7
#10
Ditto what Tech and Johnny M. said.
The practice of turning rotors goes back to the days of old American cars with big fat rotors designed to be cut 1 to 3 times during its lifetime. But today, to reduce weight and increase brake performance, modern brake rotors are much thinner and lighter.
There are two reasons to cut rotors:
1. To cut out high spots and re-true them (i.e. they're warped).
2. To essentially de-glaze them when replacing the brake pads.
Number 1 never works; period. If rotors are warped, replace them!
Number 2 is generally a good idea, if the guy cutting the rotor doesn't introduce warpage of the rotor during the process of cutting it; also dependent on the quality of cutting tool, etc.
When installing new pads, it is a good idea to deglaze the rotors (assuming you're re-using them). What i do is put a coarse sanding wheel on my side grinder and put a nice circle hatch on the rotor surfaces (wear a dust mask!). This will help (somewhat) the new pads to seat in properly.
All this being said, above has really very little to do with your problem, which is brake squeal. Like Tech said, try the pad shims; might also try the anti-squeal grease on those as well; it may help.
But more than likely they're just cheapo pads on there now, and/or were never seated in properly when new, so they will just squeal no matter what. If that's the case it may be time for new (quality) pads.
BTW: I worked at Bimmer dealership for years and we never turned rotors, except once, when one customer insisted; yep the job came back we replaced the rotors.
The practice of turning rotors goes back to the days of old American cars with big fat rotors designed to be cut 1 to 3 times during its lifetime. But today, to reduce weight and increase brake performance, modern brake rotors are much thinner and lighter.
There are two reasons to cut rotors:
1. To cut out high spots and re-true them (i.e. they're warped).
2. To essentially de-glaze them when replacing the brake pads.
Number 1 never works; period. If rotors are warped, replace them!
Number 2 is generally a good idea, if the guy cutting the rotor doesn't introduce warpage of the rotor during the process of cutting it; also dependent on the quality of cutting tool, etc.
When installing new pads, it is a good idea to deglaze the rotors (assuming you're re-using them). What i do is put a coarse sanding wheel on my side grinder and put a nice circle hatch on the rotor surfaces (wear a dust mask!). This will help (somewhat) the new pads to seat in properly.
All this being said, above has really very little to do with your problem, which is brake squeal. Like Tech said, try the pad shims; might also try the anti-squeal grease on those as well; it may help.
But more than likely they're just cheapo pads on there now, and/or were never seated in properly when new, so they will just squeal no matter what. If that's the case it may be time for new (quality) pads.
BTW: I worked at Bimmer dealership for years and we never turned rotors, except once, when one customer insisted; yep the job came back we replaced the rotors.
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