I am replacing both front axles on my 95' 850 turbo. I ordered both axles from FCP, which I thought were going to be FEQ axles. The driver side was but the passenger side is a WONH axle I think, never heard of it. Didn't think it was a big deal but, neither axle from FCP match with the factory axles I took off of the car.

Both factory axles have a 36mm nut. The WONH has the same sizenut but, the intermediate shaft's diameter is significantly smaller then the factory one. Is that normal with most aftermarket axles for this car, is this axle going to be as durable as the factory one?? I thought smaller diameter axles can’t handle as much torque as larger ones.

The FEQ axle came with which I believe isa 32mm nut. Is that going to matter as I am going from a 36mm nut to a 32 mm. From what I see the 36mm nut seems like a better fit because it fills out the whole area in the hub, where as the 32mm nut is barely bigger then the hole.


I am curious as to what axles you guys have used and have run into the same issues. Should I just go ahead with these axles or should I return them and get them from raxles or something?

 

i was thinking of buying EMPI axles ayone use these either?

 

I have 2 850's and I recently replaced the left drive axle with aftermarket parts from FCP Groton. (Both cars had torn outter CV boots.)

The first one I did was FEQ branded and had a 32mm nut. The second one was branded DSS and had a 36mm nut. Both work fine.

I personally liked the FEQ one better... the C clip thing on the end seemed more quality than the one on the DSS. The DSS also had an extra support bushing in the center of the axle. I cut it off - it was not needed for the 850. It just seemed like the FEQ was bulit with more fine details. But like I said, both are working perfectly in my two 850's.

The 32mm nut on the FEQ did not prove to be an issue... except that I had to buy a 32mm impact socket!

Good luck...

 

How hard is it to replace the axles, and outside of CV joint issues, why would you need to replace them?

GLenn

 

Usually by the time you notive the boot is ripped there is alot of dirt in there and the joint is pretty much wiped out already.
It is almost cheaper to just replace the axle then the outer joint.

I need 2 axles for the white car soon[:@][:@]the inner joints are bad and causing a vibration while accelerating.

 

Well thanks for the info guys! I guess I will go ahead with the axles I got and put them on. If anything goes wrong with them, I'll let you guys know.

 

picked up my front axles today. both were EMPI, picked up the pair for about $185. ill put them in sat. with the wheel bearing

 

In case if Haynes manual turns out insufficient:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php

We'll be waiting for your reply.


JPN

 

guess i should ofbought a haynes manual

 

And I would have at least a quart of Dexron-III/Mercon. Some tranny fluid may leak out when you disconnect the axle shaft. If this happens make sure that the fluid gets added just the right amount. Too little or too much fluid will upset the tranny and may trigger some mysterious trouble codes.


JPN

 

so i should mark the dipstick before starting???

 

No, but the fluid level has to be between MIN & MAX (FULL). If there is no alphabetic letters, then between the two dots/marks. Drive the car for 15 minutes or so, then with engine at idle, apply parking brake fully (chock the wheels is possible) and with the brake pedal fully depressed, move the shifter in the following sequence, stopping 4-5 seconds at each stop:

P-R-N-D-3-L-3-D-N-R-P.

Then pull out the dip stick, wipe clean with lint-free cloth, reinsert it making sure that there is no foreign object on to it, then pull out again to check the fluid level. As long as the fluid is between the 2 marks, you're good to go. Make sure not to let anything enter the dipstick tube, as this can cause blockage of the tiny hydraulic passages in the tranny and will render it useless.

Let us know if you need to clear up more questions.


JPN