I need to replace these on my 850 as one has broken.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/181


Ive done some reading on the net of how to replace these. But all I can find is how to replace the Rear Trailing Arm Link (which does not look to easy when the time comes)

Is it as easy as removing the bolts and replacing them, or am I looking at having to tear apart the Trailing Arm assembly X2?

Can't find anything on Garage 13 (this site is usually a God Send)

Any help would be great, as my departure time for our Xcross USA trip is approaching.

Chebucto

 

Sorry to say but you really need to slide one arm out and change the bushing.
I hang the caliper so I do not have to disconnect the brake line. I also drop the entire hub with the rotor still attached. Then you can start dropping the arms some and seperate.

 

I just found this:

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/ser...Suspension.pdf

Looks like they call them Traverse Arm Mounts here? Now im confused.

 

Oh Joy, Time to pass this off to the real Mechs !!!!

 

any chance of step by step instructions on the net anywhere as how to do all that. Im gun ho to try anything once if I have a read along...LOL

 

You should really find Vadis and get it. That has alot of info you can use.

 

thanks as usual Tech, im downloading it now.

Chebucto

 

Sounds good let us know how you make out with the job.

 

I took my car to a mechanic and he said my Traverse Arm Mounts (bushing) is worn on the RH side. My tires are wearing/feathering on the inside, badly. Could this be caused by something else?

Is there an alignment adjustment on these cars in the rear.

 

I also have this problem, I lowered the springs on the rear of my T5r and am not sure if this is causing bad tyre wear on the inside edge. I am also waiting for a reply to your question, can the rear be aligned. As the rear end is fixed not independent.

 

So I can't find a Vadis Download that works, so I think I will just attempt it without.

Next question, is there anything i should be changing while I am there? i will be changing the shocks, springs seem ok.

 

Just did this job today, changed the drivers side bushing (therefore wokring on the passenger side of the car)

Steps I took:

1 - Rolled car up on ramps

2 - took bottom 2 nuts off (came off easy 21mm)

3 - Bolts were siezed in the assembly and after banging on them for a while, soaking them down with PB Blaster, i ended up grinding the entire mount in half.

4 - My bushing was sheared apart from the base mount so after i got the base piece out i moved the trailing arm around and got an 18mm box wrench onto the bushing bolt to get it off

5 - Put new bushing in place and jacked up the trailing arm to align the arm with the bushing bolt hole.

6 - Ended up needing a socket U-Joint, extension, and 18mm socket to tighten the bushing bolt (u joint came into play since there is a small area cut out where, with an extension, you can get the socket onto the bolt to tighten it)

7 - Used a pry bar to move the bushing into place to put in the other 2 bolts and tighten them up


I anticipated this taking 1 to 1 1/2 hours but after needing to run to the store to get the u-joint and needing to pull out the grinder and sawzall to cut out the old bushing, it ended up taking me three hours.

 

Hi, i'm new to the forum. I need to replace the bushings but confused about your write-up. Looking at the below picture, how did you move the control arm out enough to replace the bushing 4L,4R if the car was on ramps?I was going to remove both control arms then replace both bushing. If your method save time and achieves the same result, please let me know how you did it. Thanks

 

I have replaced both sides on a 1994 850 turbo. The bolts on the drivers side were seized so I had to cut the old fitting out with a hack saw. I also replaced both of the fittings on the other ends of the Delta links at the same time. I think you might be able to replace the drivers side without disconnecting anything else but the passengers side would be difficult.

 

Hi meb7070 please can you tell me does that 18mm bolt have to be torqued or just nipped up
kind regards

 

You can find the torque specs on Volvotips.com As a general common sense thought, if something needs an 18mm bolt, it will need to be torqued to a reasonable force so best to find the spec.

 

Hi its ok saying its best to find the spec i have a manual but it still does not say the torque for this actual bolt so if anyone out there has the torque setting for tis bolt please let me know many thanks

 

Volvo 850 rear suspension repair manual

See above shop manual - which bolt is the "18 MM" you are referring to?

 

That does not show the bolt its the transverse arm mount bushing and the bolt goes through the middle of the bushing

 

it might not be a 18mm but i know there is a bolt there and another two holding the bushing to the other arm also used for toe angle