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Water pump fail need help!

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Old Dec 19, 2015 | 12:54 PM
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Shawn Silva's Avatar
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Default Water pump fail need help!

Had noise coming from water pump pulley. Got the car home started making a knocking noise and coolant started streaming out from bottom passenger side under the water pump pulley. My question is did the pulley bust and that's why my car now is making a knocking noise? Or can there be engine damage?Please help I really have no idea about any of this.

Thank you for your time
 
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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawn Silva
Had noise coming from water pump pulley. Got the car home started making a knocking noise and coolant started streaming out from bottom passenger side under the water pump pulley. My question is did the pulley bust and that's why my car now is making a knocking noise? Or can there be engine damage?Please help I really have no idea about any of this.

Thank you for your time
Sounds like H2O pump and/or pulley started to fail. You should have stopped the engine immediately and got it towed. The timing belt rides on the H2O pump so maybe it slipped a tooth or two. Running the car now (or trying to start it) can only cause more damage. If you don't DIY repair then it's time for the shop..
 
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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 06:56 PM
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Yep. you will need to pull the timing belt to get access to the water pump - and it would be a good time to check the timing marks before pulling the belt to make sure its still on the correct notch. if it is off, then it should be reset correctly and have a compression check done to make sure no valves were bent before R+R on the pump and the timing belt (you're going to want to change the tensioner at a minimum)
 
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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 07:46 PM
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When was the timing belt/waterpump last changed? If no idea, change them all.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mt6127
Yep. you will need to pull the timing belt to get access to the water pump - and it would be a good time to check the timing marks before pulling the belt to make sure its still on the correct notch. if it is off, then it should be reset correctly and have a compression check done to make sure no valves were bent before R+R on the pump and the timing belt (you're going to want to change the tensioner at a minimum)
Not sure you can do a compression test safely without replacing the water pump first?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 04:19 PM
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you don't start the car to do a compression test. you pull the plugs and the fuel pump relay, then screw in the gauge for the first cylinder then crank over. If low you can drop a small of oil (ie a few tbs) to do a wet test. Repeat for all 5.

See Robert DIY's vid...

 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 06:49 PM
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I am pretty sure jw's point is cranking the engine to do a compression test with a timing belt that may be slipping is dangerous..
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 08:51 PM
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agreed. I had noted in my earlier post the first thing to check are the timing marks to confirm if the valve timing is still correct or needs to be reset.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2015 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by gdog
I am pretty sure jw's point is cranking the engine to do a compression test with a timing belt that may be slipping is dangerous..
Exactly. Pistons can hit valves, regardless of whether there's any combustion.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2015 | 08:51 PM
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Please don't start the car again. If it was running when you shut it off last, you should be good. Replace the timing belt, water pump and related parts before starting it again. If you can't do it yourself, have it TOWed to a shop to have it done. A tow is cheaper than an engine. Unfortunately, in some areas, that job cost more than the car.



Replaced the water pump and the car now runs smooth as silk.

 
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