So it was about time anyway, was hoping to get past the upcoming IPD garage sale this weekend, well that is not happening since the water pump is now leaking.

Searched IPD and FCP and now I have to choose which kit to buy. Looking for suggestions from you all.

IPD's kit sells for $326.01 plus the Serpentine Belt for another $27.44.
Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit
Serpentine Drive Belt 850 S70 V70 C70

or FCP sells a kit for $250.66 w/o Serpentine belt
Volvo Timing Belt Kit w/Water Pump (Complete) - OEM Parts TBKIT331WP1 | FCP Euro

And they sell a complete kit with both belts for $498.88
Volvo Timing Belt Kit (850 C70 V70 S70) - Genuine/Gates TBKIT252WP-OEGB | FCP Euro

or this complete kit for 468.88
Volvo Timing Belt Kit (850 C70 V70 S70) - Genuine Volvo TBKIT252WP-OE | FCP Euro

What does the two kits from FCP have over the kit from IPD that makes it worth more than $112 to $142 depending if I get the Gates racing belt.

Can you all tell what you guys have installed?

I know there are many of you that have done this. Just so you know, I am not planning on selling my car soon. I have 189k and expect it to see 300k or more.

I also am in a bit of a turmoil as I suspect I might have hardened valve stem seals and I was originally planning on doing this all at one time. Car didn't cooperate and so that is another decision point I need to make.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

I did valve stem seals, timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, front and rear cam seals, and crank seal when i swapped my cams. Make sure you get the right Kit - they are different for different years and turbo or na

 

Ibified,

I have decided to do the Valve Stems seals, etc. Did you do those with the head on or off the car?

If you left it on the car, is there a good tutorial on how to do this?

 

Head stays on, but cam holder (what is a valve cover on most cars) comes off. There should be a tutorial on it somewhere....look for "camshaft swap" and that will get you 90% there.

 

Ibified,
Are you very happy with the change to the NA cams? I have read here that many have suggested this change to our turbo cars. Was this worth the change?

Thanks

 

Definitely.

 

ibified,
I would assume you installed new NA Cams. Where did you source them from? Also, any other parts needed for this installation?

 

I got the N/A cams from a junk yard. I'd replace the seals while you have it apart, especially the front cam seals and crank seal since you cant get to those without removing the timing belt gears. For me it was a "for 20 bucks and while I am in there" type thing. A few extra bucks givers me a lot of peace of mind. Besides the obvious tools, you'll need a new gasket for the intake manifold (because its a much easier job to do with the manifold off and everything out of the way) you will need the liquid gasket material that is used to seal the cam holder back onto the head.

 

ibified,
So my question to you is how do you know these old (used) cams are any good? Is there some qualifying criteria that says this set is ok while that set you pass on?

I have read that the 93's are desirable over later model years. Read that Boxpin has the later model years, but today his motor is far from stock.

I agree with you, "while I am in there", might as well tackle these things...PVC system even though I have no symptoms in the 90k I have put on my engine. I also am thinking about replacing the "O" ring on the turbo tube that leaks for some, and really clean up my engine bay.

Thanks for all your tips. Appreciate it.

Tomorrow I am heading over to the IPD 50 year Garage Sale. Kinda Cool I live in the same town as IPD.

 

You can tell that the NA cams are good because they are not BROKE IN HALF. Those cams are solid and they will wear out the head, head (cam) cover, and everything else in their path before they go "bad". I have heard of people breaking them taking the cover off WRONG.

Personally I don't change anything that is not being removed. So, if my cam seals are NOT leaking, I don't mess with them. If I'm going to pull the cams, the seals are out so I'll change them.

 

RSPI, you crack me up about those cams.

I have a few hardened valve stems seals as at idle for 15 minutes the car starts to smoke some. Then if you were to give a quick I rev, it blows tons of blue smoke. Didn't pass DEQ once. So the next attempt was to keep the idle up to about 1400 RPM. Passed that time, no build up of oil in the cylinder(s). So that is why I am replacing and doing long awaited maintenance.

Do I use my cars cam sprockets and the cams from the NA? wasn't sure based on some reading I have done.

 

I think sprockets are the same.

 

The sprockets are the same on the '94+ cams. I'm not a fan of removing the sprockets because of timing. The timing has to be changed a little to get the preformance out of the NA cams but I don't like removing them from the shaft.

I'm not sure why people let their cars sit and idle, the manual advises against it. I switched to my summer weight oil, 10w-40 and my car stopped smoking. I was losing about 1 quart of oil ever 1,500 miles, not it only loses that much every 2,500. I'm not saying that isn't a good test, nor am I saying that "we" don't need new valve steem seals, just saying that we should try to avoid letting the car sit and idle.

 

I don't let me sit and idle. This occurred while waiting in line to get tested to pass the state emissions. Then I learned to step up the RPM a bit to solve the smoke issue.

I already moved to 10/40 too. That help with smoke and oil loss. Now I am also lose not quite a quart between oil changes. I change at 3k. However, now that I am working at home virtual for my IT Company, I drive about 6k a year. Our VW GTI doesn't get 3k a year.

New Era. That is why I wanted to address as much as possible at this time to ensure the car will last me another 10 years.