Volvo 850 Made from 1993 to 1997, this Volvo line was available in both a wagon and a sedan, both with were graced with several trim levels.

Weird Central locking Problem

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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 04:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Weird Central locking Problem

I have an interesting issue; my central locking is playing up.
The car will lock itself ok with the remote but not open. When I push the button it turns on and off the immobilizer. You can see the red light flashing then it turns off. I can however open the car with the key and all the doors open. I have noticed that the fuel flap is not locking/unlocking.

I noticed something strange when driving the car, the light started to illume and then flicker!! Then another time the light turned on and the doors locked and unlocked? Could this be an earthing issue? Or would the stuck solenoid on the fuel flap cause this system to malfunction?

Any help appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 06:11 AM
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Do you think the lock button on the remote is messing up??? I have a pdf I can e-mail you if you pm me. I did not know that the fuel door had a lock on it until yesterday when I was reading the trouble shooting page of my pdf.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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I would suspect a loose contact or a bad component inside the security module. Check all the grounding brids in the engine compartment specially the ones connected to battery.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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what year?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Thanks, it is a 1995 T5R. The remote is working fine. You can see the immobilizer light turn on and off with the remote. I have checked the battery connections they all look good. Where is this module located? You can definitely here a relay clicking when pressing the remote.

Could it be that the fuel flap solenoid being inoperative being part of the fault?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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How are you sure that the remote works fine? You said that it locks but do not unlock... I took my remote to the stealer service department yesterday and my remote was only working 50%. The unlock worked but the lock button did not. They can test it at the service department for FREE.

I believe I have a bad remote receiver. I removed mine this morning and tested it as per the ts sheet that I have and it indicated that my receiver had an open short. So I went to my local Volvo grave yard a purchased one today. It is to HOT HERE to do anything outside after 8:00 am so I will install it tomorrow morning before 8.

I have a '95 850 T-5R and the remote receiver is located beside the inside of the glove box. So, you remove the inside of the glove compartment and look to the right and you'll see the receiver, it is a square box about 5" x 4" and 1-1/2" thick that has a green plug going in the bottom of it. Now, my remote system did not work at all, it also did not blink fast when I was trying to program it with the turn the key on 5 times real fast and leave on - then the light on the dash would blink fast for your to click your remote to program it.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Oh yea, to see if your fuel door lock is working correctly you can open the fuel filler door and lock the car. Then look in the hole to see if the pin is thrown. Then unlock the car and look in the hole to see it the pin has retracted.

My fuel filler door latch was bent back out of the way so it was not locking with the rest of the car. Today I straightened it out and adjusted it so the pin would go through it. Just a simple physical adjustment, bend - twist - pull.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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I have seen the latch strip bent purposly on many cars just becuase it gets stuck sometimes if there is any pressure on the pin while in locked position that restricts the pin to retract properly during unlocking. So, make sure when you do the bent-twist-pull activity, the hole and pin are aligned nicely so that you dont end up with empty tank at a gas station. :P
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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Oh No!!! Big trouble. Ok found the immobiliser, relays 210-211 are missing with a pastic wire arrangement in place. Found 50E and 50F and jumpered (where relay 210 is supposed to be) I done this cause now the car won't start.

Previous to that I think I may have jumpered the wrong place and popped a fuse or two. Found a blown fuse replaced (indicators).

Not sure what to do next, the car will make click noises when you turn the key (relays turning on) I can here the fuel pump going but the starter wont turn. If only I had not started to mess with the immobilser maybe I would have a car that would go. Please help
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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If you put everything back the way it was, try locking and unlocking the door with the key. Maybe the alarm system is tripped and will not allow the car to start until you reset it with the key. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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or remove the battery for 10 seconds and then put it back on (make sure you have your radio code first )
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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Ok back to basics, Can somebody trace the wire that activates when the key is turned fully into the start position, which relay pin becomes live to power the starter? Is this in relay bank 410 or 411?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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I think you need to get a relay or get trouble shooting instructions from somewhere. I offered to send you some alarm instructions but search the threads and find the down load to the manual. That will likely help you.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Check the Keyless entry relay
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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All fixed, the alarm is an aftermarket one, this plugs into relay 410 and 411, 410 is for immobilizing the vehicle. Pins 50e 50f needed jumping, then the pin below need +12v to activate the starter. I found the wiring diagram for the starter from MVS.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Glad to hear you are back on the road.
 

Last edited by rspi; Jun 27, 2009 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Typo
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