Hey guys...My '96 850 is up there in age and mileage now and am trying to decide what to do. She has 219k and is still doing a 64 mile daily commute to work for my wife. It has been a great car and has never let us down.

Obviously, at this age and this mileage, she needs some more work. The front struts and rear shocks are pretty much done (still original), need to figure out the problem with the A/C (compressor turns on for about 3 seconds then off for 3 seconds), oxygen sensor needs to be replaced, cruise control stopped working, need to replace some dash lights and the PCV system is almost due to be replaced.

I've already replaced the heater core, starter, radiator, water pump, timing belt, spark plugs and wires, brakes, tires, control arms, ABS module and some various electrical components. I've spent about $4100 on maintenance and repairs since we brought the car in August of '09.

I'm trying to decide what would be best, spend the $1000 or so to fix the issues and see how long we can keep her going with that 64 mile commute or, retire her to my train commuter car (about 6 miles a day) and get my wife something a newer with less miles for about $7000 or so. What would you do? We would pay cash so, there would be no car payment.

 

Well, it's all down to personal preference. If the car has been good to you, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't be reliable. Struts and 02 sensors are going to happen no matter what to any car after time. It's just one of those things that needs to be replaced after a while, like tires for example. As far as the A/C condenser goes, It's either good or its bad. If it's turning on its good. If its fluctuating like that, you either have it on defrost trying to heat the car. Which will run the compressor on and off every few seconds to remove moisture from the system. Or, if your actually using the A/C to cool, it will come on and off when the refrigerant gets old or low. It will just need a recharge of refrigerant if that is the case. They sell recharge kits just about anywhere for $20-$50. $100 is the general price from a shop. The dash lights and PCV are pretty strait forward jobs for a DIY project. but can sometimes be costly at a shop for time reasons.

I'll be honest, 219k is getting up their. But its nothing for these cars if they are well kept. I'm pushing 250k on a T5 with decent boost, And I'm not exactly always easy on her. You're generally never going to get you're money back that you put in. your looking at a high end re-sell of $2-2,500.

It's a tough call. If you love the car, keep it. If you have the extra money for a new car, and can financially justify the decision, go for it.

 

The a/c issue could be nothing more than needing to shim the compressor. I'd definitely keep the car - there's no sense unloading a car that runs and drives great and is reliable because it needs new struts. And if you're thinking about spending 7 grand on a car, you have to ask yourself if that makes sense, when you have a reliable car right now.

 

Yeah, it's the mileage that makes this a gamble. It could go to 300k or it could die out in 5k more miles.

I would still keep this car and use it for my 6 mile commute to the train station and sell my 240 (which has also been good to me but, is getting pretty rusty). My wife has the long commute and want to make sure she continues to get to work safely with no breakdowns.

 

True, and as I told Sean, I would not get rid of this car, I would retire it to my train commuter car and sell the 240. Since my commute is so short, I wouldn't worry about these repairs (in 2 and a half years, I've only put on 8k on the 240). Because of high mileage, I'm a little concerned how long it can keep making my wife's commute. She does about 20k miles a year and I don't want it leaving her stranded.

 

I have heard many a mention on sites about rusty 240's 740's and such. Here in Australia where 98% of the country does not get snow you just don't get rusty Volvo's.

The only rust I have ever seen on a 200 or 700 series has been due to a bad body repair.

One of my neighbours has a 78 244GL which has had a hard life, but starts every time you turn the key, has absolutely no rust, and has close to 500,000km on the clock (310,000 ish miles)

 

Unfortunately, here in the US Midwest region, it's hard finding a daily driven car that is over 20 years old without any rust. The road salt is especially brutal on 70's - 80's Japanese cars. I highly doubt my 240 was ever waxed by any of the previous owners. Most of the rust is under the doors, around the tailgate and a little on the undercarriage. She does, however, start everyday on the first crank no matter how cold it is (we sometimes get sub zero windchills). If the body wasn't galvanized, she would have disintegrated years ago.

 

BUT, it would be a gamble with the seven thousand dollar car too. Any car is a gamble and although the newer, lower mileage vehicle should be more reliable it's still a "should".

You wouldn't be spending that much maintaining the 850 and should it die there might be someone in the area willing to do a major repair on it should you chose at that time to pass on it so you'd at least recover a few hundred on it.

But it all comes down to what she wants and if you mind working on it.

 

Financially, it's really not a hard decision. It's just that most of us would rather loose $7,000 in one shot and have a car that makes us think it's better. I think it's plenty responsible either way.

The A/C compressor is supposed to turn on and off, based on its cold controls. The compressor is following instructions. For one thing, it's winter time. If it's still fast cycling when the weather is 80 F outside, take it to an independent local A/C shop, with a good reputation, and not part of a chain, and ask them "hey, why is it doing this?"

 

[QUOTE=Kiss4aFrog;342833]BUT, it would be a gamble with the seven thousand dollar car too. Any car is a gamble and although the newer, lower mileage vehicle should be more reliable it's still a "should".

That is very true. I've had great luck with every car that I have brought but, I suppose I am over due for a lemon.

 

It fast cycles regardless of outside temperature. I've done just about all the work to this car myself but, would like to know what the problem is before I even think about taking it to a shop. I'm pretty positive that most will want to replace the compressor.

 

As for the AC, I would check the freon level. A $8 investment in some freon may cure that.

With the car, heck, the shops now days like to soak people to the point of bailing on them now days. My buddy had a bad purge valve on his Lexus and they soaked him for about $4,000 before they replaced the darn $84 part. I talk to people with MB's, VW's, Infinity's etc., that go back and forth to the dealer for stuff and get little results. If you don't have a warranty you are on your own. Risk!

It all comes down to what she wants and what you can afford. Those Volvo's can last forever if you are willing to spend about $100 per month on the 850 or $30 a month on the 240.

 

You could be right, but that would make absolutely no sense. The compressor follows instructions, and of course a guy who fixes air conditioners will know that. It just makes no sense at all.

It's probably half a can low on freon ($10).