the Torx bolts can be rusted solid but I found 2 liquids that will definitely help the situation...Kroil Oil and Liquid Wrench Freeze penetrating oil.
God the stuff is great! After I got all the bolts out I coated them in Lubro-Moly copper paste.

 

Would these instructions be applicable for a 2005 S40 2.4i ; even though it's in the 850 forum?

I'm looking to change my front bearing on my vehicle.

 

Your car will be a little different but somewhat the same.

 

Tech:

I'm speculating that my driver side bearing is bad.

Symptoms:

1. While going straight, a loud humming
2. Humming gets louder when I turn right

So i'm thinking it's the driver side bearing that needs replacement.

Could it be the rear ones? How would I know?

Those S40 bearings are expensive, so i'm trying to narrow down which one I should replace.

Thanks for your help

 

Excellent write up...this is exactly what I came here to find and its a sticky no less...TYVM! FWIW my850 is also a 97 model T5. The symptoms are a alot of vibrations when turning left while moving and going straight at speed is a whine/hum that I can feel thru the steering wheel. Its the right front bearing....since the other side is still good should I wait 'til it goes before replacing it? I guess I can really answer that with..."if it aint broke leave it alone". The only thing I am lacking is a place to work on the car...my driveway is not exactly level and I need to get all the proper tools...but nonetheless Thanks for this write up!

 

I just replaced the LF wheel bearing on my 1999 S70GLT. The biggest problem I ran into was your step #7 - removing one side of the control arm. I removed the bolt at the ball joint, and I could get the control arm to come down about 1/2", using a pry bar, but no further. So I removed the 2 bolts on the subframe side, and the control arm just fell off.

 

Just yesterday I had my front driver side wheel bearing hub replaced on a 1996 Volvo 850GLT. Here in Montreal Volvo dealer sells *** wheel bearing hub kit at an incredible price of $265 each. In the US it can be purchased for much less.
I wanted to do the job my self, but finally took it to a private honest Volvo garage who put it on for one hours labor.
The problem went progressively worse from occasional noise to noise when I was turning right (changing lanes) to constant scraping noise like yesterday. To make the story worse when I lifted the car last weekend the wheel was moving up and down at 12 and 6 position like control arm symptoms, but control arm ball joint was not loose.
If you plan on dong the job yourself do it at the first sign of noise, don't wait like me or the situation might get to be very dangerous. I was told that the wheel might have not come off while driving because the hub was held on by the axle nut, but that the bearing could have seized driving at 100km/h making it a life and death situation. Bottom line check the symptoms of the noise and do it as quickly as possible.

 

Please, help, I just went out today to do this exact job on my 2000 V70 xc AWD. All went okay until I got to the E16 bolts. The heads were rusted all to hell, I was able to get one of 4 turned about 3 times before I stripped it totally. I eventually took off whatever the thing is that the wheel bearing is housed in. It attaches to the swingarm and what I imagine is the steering control arm. Also there was a ABS sensor in there. I got that off okay (with the wheel bearing attached), but I'm not sure what to do now. I can sawsall off the one stripped bolt (I have enough room), and the other three might come out, but the wheel bearings I bought didn't come with bolts. Can I buy that entire assembly new? Or where can I get those bolts? It's pretty rusted. I have to do this on the other side as well. CV's are bad too, but with this all apart I'm hoping that'll be easy.

So I guess the question is where can I get that part that houses the wheel bearing and what is it called? Or should I try to salvage it and just get new bolts.

 

I would cut/grind the old ones out and buy the kits from here.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...281998-2000%29

 

That is exactly what I ended up doing. I cut them off using the sawmill and bought new ones from those same guys. Funny. Thanks!

 

Sorry... Spellcheck.. Thats sawzall.

 

I also ended up getting the entire axle/CV assembly from FCP for like $90.00 including shipping. This same part is on ebay for twice that, how is that possible, are their parts any good? (please say yes)

 

This dinner plate sized assembly that attaches to the wheel bearing housing with two small bolts was all rusted to heck and fell apart in my hands. Should I bother trying to track down a new one or just leave it off? Does it help cool the rotor or just keep dust from collecting on the wheel?

My wheels did seem to be atypically dust free for a front disk brake vehicle, so I'm inclined to replace it, but I couldn't find any online the 2000 model year.

Gian

 

Do I have to take the axle nut off to get the rotor off? is the axle nut revese thread?

 

I dont think it is but it probably has a pin in it.

 

No and no.

 

Thx, I got it....

 

Thanks for the write up. I just did this job on the right side and your description and photos beat the Haynes manual hands down.

Btw it's really nice if you can find a mechanic who will rent out his lift and bay for this kind of job. I don't think I'll ever crawl around on the ground again.

 

Just finished replacing the LF wheel hub assembly on my 'cursed' 2000 S70 GLT and there are a few changes applicable to this year:

1) Don't need the 36mm wheel hub socket
2) E14 torx is applicable for this year

It's necessary to remove the ball joint in order to gain sufficient access to the torx bolts. It's also advisable to disconnect the ABS sensor to avoid damaging it when you're breaking this down to get to the wheel hub assembly.

When this job was complete I was glad it was over; not looking forward to having to do another one but it beats paying the ransom that the dealership and other shops want for this job.

 

Thanks for the post. Really helpful as I have this job to do on my V70. One quick question, the Haynes manual advises using metal adhesive when refitting the driveshaft into the new bearing. Do you use this and where do you get it/what is it?

Finally, I was wondering how hard a knock will it take to at step 8) "wack out the axle"? I don't want to overdo it or break anything but would hate to get stuck because I'm not hitting hard enough...

Thanks again.