Hi Everyone, my car is exhibiting some strange behaviour when it is off. The Battery and Oil lamps stay on, dimly lit, after turning the car off. when I put the key into the "on" position (before cranking) the oil lamp lights brightly and the Batt light comes off and stays off after starting the engine.

I have installed a new battery in the car after having it checked and it still does the same thing. if I disconnect a battery terminal and reconnect it, all dash lights will stay off; after I start the car and run it for a little while then shut down, the light stays on (dimly lit and blinking) along with the oil lamp...

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi Art, welcome to the site.

It seems as if you have a ground issue or power problem. I would start by unplugging the ignition switch (electrical part) to see if that causes the lights to go out. You can do that by taking the steering collar off (4 screws on the bottom of it and work it off top and bottom). Then unplug the ignition switch on the drivers side of the collum. If they lights go out, replace that part, it's about $60.

If that doesn't work out, my next step would be to find the other ends of your battery cables and disconnect and clean them, making sure the cables are in good shape.

Hope that helps.

 

Hi RSPI,

first thank you for the kind welcome and advice. I will try what you have suggested as soon as I complete my other repair: changing PCV system... I have the car sort of dismantled at the moment!

Once again thanks, and I will post back if your advice solves the issue.

Art

 

check connections and wiring for the alternator. It is possible the alternator is bad also.

 

Hi Again RSPI,

Taking advantage of the fact that I had everything apart, I took out the alternator, had it checked and as it tuens out it was in fact bad. I replaced it when I put everything back together again and the problem is gone!

I would suggest that anyone that replaces their PCV system do as much work as possible and replace everything they can afford because I can see what a pain it would be to swap certain parts out.

Another annoyance that I found when I took out the alternator was the fact that I didnt know that the tension pulley requires a 3/4" or 19mm square drive... being that I live in "the boonies" I dont have easy access to specialty tools and needless to say I was not prepared for this problem. I went to the auto parts store to find that they only carry the more comun 1/2 or 3/8" drive types, so I purchased a 1/2 to 3/4" adapter that I later found would not fit thanks to to the ECU box!

I eventually managed to fit the adaper in and using a 19mm wrench to turn it. To do this, I had to remove the ECU and the enclosure to make the adapter fit. In the end I opted to leave the adapter inserted in place since it cannot fall out anyway, so if my belt goes, all I will need is a 19mm spanner.

Again thanks for your help, I appreciate it very much.

Kind regards.

 

Hi Lifesgood,

Thanks for the heads up, you were right, it was the alternator!

TY again

Art

 

You are 100% right about the PCV. It is well worth the cost to replace every component while you are in there.

About the belt tensioner - before I bought the special tool, I used a piece of steel flat bar and an adjustable wrench.

Make sure that bit you left in there isn't touching the ECU box. Ya don't want the ECU rattling around.

 

Yea, there is very little space in there. I actually had a plumbing plug that fits pretty good in the hole and I use a pipe wrench to turn the tensioner. The pic below was for a 960, to get it in the 850, I had to remove the silver fitting.

 

Or get crazy like me and just buy a new tensioner. It uses a standard breaker bar to take the tension off !!

I took it off using a pry bar once for the timing belt and again to replace the alternator. I tried to find a square drive to fit it and rig something, no luck. The pry bar didn't work that well and slipped off a few times. I kept feeling I was going to lose a finger. It was worth the 86 bucks (autozone, 59 on rockauto) to have a new one with a new bearing and be able to use a tool I already owned to take it off.

 

I tried that at first too when I realized that I didnt have the right size tool. Kinda makes you wonder why the Volvo Engineers thought that a person would need a 19mm drive to move that part, especially in such a confined space.

Its good to know that the replacement part comes with a STD size hole ,

 

After I removed the tensioner, the adapter went in nice and tight, no room for rattle. I made sure it went in far enough for the bearing lock to add some extra pressure in the fit.

you are right though, if that thing does come loose, the ECU may not like its new friend vibrating next to it