well, i've finally picked up my 850R and all i can say is...WOW, it's an awesome bit of kit!
love it, absolutely love it! and it's only been 2 days :P

although, there are a few issues

the door check strap is making a god awful knocking noise opening and closing, i've got a replacement one all ready to go on, but was wandering if there was any trick to getting it out of the door? as the one i pulled from a wreck i had a bit of a pain trying to wiggle it out...or is it just, try and wiggle it out?

second, it sounds like the input shaft bearing is gone on the box (makes noise when the clutch is not depressed, but once pressed goes away) could this be anything else?

drivers side seat warmer, not working, will be checking the cables tomorrow.

and my biggest issue...the fuel consumption!
it's absolutely horrid, on the freeway it's sitting around 14-15 l/100km so about 18ish? mpg...

i've heard my be related to some vac lines? anything else i should be checking? i've got all my servicable items (plugs, leads, filter, timing belt etc...) i'm hoping that will sort out some of the economy issues

also, it apparently has a tuned ECU in it, and i'm not exactly a fan of it, as it brings the rev's up when you go to change gear, so as to spool the turbo up sorta thing before you actually get to the next gear, whilst this is fine if i want to give the car some stick, i'd prefer it not to be like that, are there any good alternatives out there for a plug and play ecu to make the car better,
does anyone have more information about a RIKA tune?

Cheers

also, new gearknobs...available?

 

also, when i push the tracs button, the light on the dash only comes on and stays on for as long as i keep the button depressed, once i remove my finger the light goes away
comments?

 

The tracks are connected through the ABS. Maybe it's not working.

You can get a tune through several companies, most like ARD I believe it's called. It should not be reving through gears.

Mileage should be a lot higher, where are you located. We hate people with 5 speeds. They only sold auto's in the USA. So all 5 speeds are mods.

There are a few threads that break down heated seat problems. Lee over on Matt's site has a good one that I used a few months ago to fix 2 seats in a yellow sedan. I believe I made comments on there to make it easier for some.

If you look at the door closly, you will likely find that the door is cracked near the stop strap. I just disconnected mine but other's have had the door welded.

 

yep, removed the strap, and it's really badly broken will have to get the old man to weld it up.... for now though it can stay disconnected.
i thought maybe the ABS/Tracs system was not working, but none of the warning lights stay on the dash to indicate its failed...but i'll pull the control unit out and redo the solder tracks anyway.

the car and i are located in australia, so yes...we got the 5 speeds...with the bigger turbo's :P

 

You should be getting much better economy on the freeway, my non turbo auto gets 7.5l-8.5/100km on the freeway and 10.5-11 arund town. Manual turbo should be much better on a constant speed.

Where in Aus are you?

 

I would not trear into that ABS module unless it wasn't working. Read for codes and check for a bad relay first. Not sure if the tune would affect it or not.

Down under huh. Nice! Look through the fuel economy thread and check/change your plugs. I have read where some people get better mileage with a tune. Also, does your car have o2 sensors? Those being bad could be a problem.

 

Did the previous owner tell you it was tuned?

I'm trying to figure how they would blip the revs on an 850. I don't think it is possible to do what you're describing in this car, because it has a throttle cable and not throttle by wire, like the new cars that have the ability to match revs for you on downshifts etc. I don't think the IACV has enough volume capacity to make much difference very far past idle RPM.

Could it be that your throttle cable or throttle body/blade is a bit sticky? Or perhaps you have a large vacuum leak in the intake manifold area, like the intake gasket or around the vacuum tree? A large volume of unmetered air could be contributing to your poor fuel mileage as well.

 

The manual transmission cars tend to be really slow at dropping back to idle when shifting between gears.

As far as the tracs I would not worry about that. The tracs system on these cars is useless. With the setup you have it basically does not work already. On my Yellow car stock auto it would never do anything either but slightly activate the ABS when needed which was no help at all. Now that I am manual it is even more useless now.

Oh and most likely the noise you hear that goes away when you press the clutch in is the throw out bearing. But that does not always mean it is bad. Mine makes the same noise and my parts are only about 3 months old.

 

Post some Pictures :-D

 

yeah, the previous owner said it was tuned, haven't looked into that too much though.

it doesn't blip the revs so much as hold them...i was thinking it could be done through the same system that is used for the cruise control...

i'm not overly worried about tracs, but thought maybe the button was stuffed.

the basic plan for the car is to get it back into stock clean original condition and have it as a nice daily, thats why i'm trying to get all the systems and parts back in order...

as for pictures
the weather has been absolutely pathetic here so haven't had time to clean it or get any good pictures, but this is the one i've got currently of it...

i had just gotten it home to melbourne from tasmania, and she's all ready for a bath...when the weather dries out...


also, gearknobs and new exhaust tips...anyone got any links to try out to source them?>

Cheers

 

I don't think the ECU has any control over cruise control fuction. The cruise has its own control unit (located in the fuse and relay box), and I believe the only link between the ECU and the cruise control unit is for vehicle speed input. I don't believe there would be any way to change cruise control function via ECU tuning.

If tech says the engine tends to hang revs when you change gears on a manual, then that's probably what it is.

It could be a bad tracs button. Maybe you could find one in a junkyard or eBay cheap and try it.

If you want to go back to original (or lightly and safely) tuned, I suggest you contact ARD. Ardideas.com

 

well...im rather bad when it comes to updates...had the car for a while, love it...
seriously, one of the best cars i've ever owned....

but...as things go with older second hand cars...
THINGS BROKE!
but thats for a little further into my update..

so, first things first, i drove it around...a lot...lots and lots...
took some photos...
(still need to fix the paint...but that is also down the list...)
bought a cat back exhaust... (and i didn't want to mod it... )






mmm....sweden... sounds great, basically the same sound as stock when driving around, but a bit more of that 5 cylinder grunt when putting the foot into it...

had to replace some dash light globes and stuff...

what a fun job! *not...*





washed and drove it for ages, ordered an o2 sensor, when it arrived, it took me forever to get time to change it...but, was soo easy, it was great to change it....

got a CD stacker for it, got the headlight wipers for it (we didn't get them on our R's in aus...) got the heated mirrors for it (another thing we got jibbed on...) replaced a whole bunch of interior plastics that were damaged, brittle, or just crap...

and...most recently...killed a radiator! and found out my low coolant light globe doesn't work...
all this happened on the maiden trip with the new O2 sensor...to say the very least...it's a massive kick in the dick in the ***** i didn't need
i just wanna drive it...


not sure how far i drove with no coolant but, it wasn't far anyway as i only did a 5 minute trip up to the shops and back, and i didn't lose it at home, and not whilst i was parked...but still, really annoyed...
the temp gauge didn't move at all from where it always sits when at operation temp, but it obviously can't get hot if it's got no coolant to read the temp off of right?

and now have been having a right old problem trying to source a new rad...Volvo Oz wants 700+ for a radiator...a custom full alloy rad is 700+ the rad that the rad man wanted to sell me was half the thickness and said it'd be fine for a turbo car (ya right.... )
and i don't really want to repair my current rad...
so have been looking at other avenues and having time wasted by a number of people for almost a month now
Found a place in china that will make one for me if i send them the diagrams of inlet/outlet placement etc...and will do it to the thickness i want full aluminium for $180USD
Its the same place im getting my new Intercooler core from (i've bought from them before on my red CA powered car, and the quality was really good and a good price too...)
so i'll probably end of giving them the job for the radiator too, get the fittings for the oil cooler either removed and run an external or change to some speedflow fittings for a nicer fitting... and make it a bit thicker for some better cooling...

seeing as though it's off the road, ive decided its time for some upgrades/service items... soo...
MSD SS blaster coil

(all the following from IPD and awesomely posted to me for MUCH cheaper then IPD by RSPI! once again...THANKS!)
IPD 8mm leads
bosch platinum plugs and new rotor cap and button
full PCV system
magnetic drain plug

and from RSPI, the rear speaker enclosures...that, surprise surprise australia didn't get any of...

and from eBay US...a brand new manual shifter!
stoked! much much cheaper then from Volvo too

From china i also have coming a new thicker full alloy Intercooler too bolt in replacement that is bigger and better (can't wait for that to arrive!)

and from eBay Aus...
Greddy Profec B EBC
new 850R floor mats
Alpine CDA-7998R headunit
Alpine HDA-5460 16gb HDD unit

also, replaced the TRACS button, so now have working Tracs OFF...but still think the computer needs a reflow on the solder...

99% of my vac lines are all stuffed, so have order 2 meters of extreme heat rated silicone vac line

when doing the PCV system, i'm also going to swap out the inlet manifold for an NA inlet manifold for a bit of extra airflow
removing the IACV plug makes the revs play normal and doesn't hold them out (it's GREAT!) but also makes the idle over 1000rpm (so it stays plugged in until i can find a solution...)

i've got NA 850 cams from a 1993 model (but won't put those in for a while i think...just got them because?)

need a new cam position sensor seal because i think that's where all the crud build up at the back of the engine is coming from...
got new poly bushes for the engine stabiliser mount and the mount that's on the firewall...what ever that ones called...

got a spare turbo dash with trip computer and switch for $40...pretty happy about that...uhh...im not sure what else i can type out in a boring post...


ACTUALLY! if anyone is still reading...i want to have PROPER OBD-II compliance on my car, it didn't come with it, but has the plug, but has no OBD-I port...i want to know, how can i get full OBD-II compliance out of my plug...if anyone has done it before... only thing is, there's only 8 wires going to my OBD port, and none of them seem to match up with any of this...
On 1996 and later vehicles, you can tell which protocol is used by examining the OBD II connector:

J1850 VPW --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, and 16, but not 10.
ISO 9141-2/KWP2000 --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 4, 5, 7, 15, and 16.
J1850 PWM --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 2, 4, 5, 10, and 16.
CAN --The connector should have metallic contacts in pins 4, 5, 6, 14 and 16.

i'll take some pictures and see what people have to say tomorrow about it...but, i want it, so i'll find a way to get it...
does it have anything to do with the ECU?

also...one last picture...

 

Heres the pictures of the OBD plug...
any help?

 

Yea, I'd say that's an update.

That's a good point about not having coolant in the system to cause a rise in the gauge temp. Hopefully you are wrong and it works just because it's bolted to the head. When my daughter ran out of coolant in her S70 the gauge did rise and the head was warped when I changed the head gasket 1,000 miles later.

Not sure what you mean by FULL compliant OBD-II. I believe the system is ISO-9141, seen that in my ScanGauge II. Heck, I think mine has 6 wires connected.

Man, are you sure you have an R or did someone toss those wheels on there and say it was? I once traveled about 350 miles to look at a "R" to purchase and the dam thing was a modded tore up T5. For some reason the journey didn't bother me, maybe due to the quality time with my daughter. Should have sued those lying bastards. Whoa, back to my point, I though all R's came loaded. No box speakers, no trip computer, no heated seats (I can under stand this for down under), no headlight wipers... What is the first 5 of the vin? Should have a 58 in it, not 57.

Other than that, you will be stoked when you see that shifter ****, it's awesome.

Will those '93 cams work? I know the '93's had some different things going on including a narrower timing belt. Just wondering.

Be careful when fooling with the radiator quick disconnects, people have them pop off good rads and destroy tranny's and such. If those connections are not fabricated properly it could lead to problems.

Keep up the good work and the updates.

 

Looking at the pics on my computer now, it looks like a real R. Seats, dash, etc. all R stuff. I wonder why they jipped you guys from some of the options.

 

We never got the heated seats because it rarely gets below 50F here in most of Australia. Headlight wipers only came on the 850's until about 1995 then they were deleted, as most 850's here will never see snow/sludge.

It should have had a trip computer though, all turbo's and R's got them.

We have a huge luxury imported car tax, so they would have deleted stuff to make the price more competitive. A 1996 850R here was $80,000 AUS (about $100,000US in 1995)

My SE Wagon was $64,800 on road AUS (81,000US 1995 exchange rate)

 

oh no...we got heated seats and trip comp...mine even came optioned with REAR heated seats...
tis also a genuine R, M59 gearbox 16T turbo and the little sticker on the timing belt cover...
also, goes like the clappers...even with all the problems it has/had
as for the disconnects, i'm tossing them, going AN fittings and getting new lines made with the appropriate ends on them, i hate the way the standard lines meet up with the rad...

the reason i ask about full OBD compliance is because, i've got no sticker under the bonnet, and every OBD scanner i've plugged in, won't work...i even bought a scangauge after i saw your one RSPI...and it doesn't work either...

as for the camshafts working or not...i don't know, it was a moreso, got them because i could kinda thing, and if i could get them to work (and could be bothered) then i would...otherwise, eh...no big loss...
also...i'll throw up some more progress photos and show you guys the severity of the 'gunk' build up the back of the motor/turbo has had on it...

from what i can see, it's a combination of blocked PCV system, weeping rocker cover gasket, weeping CPS gasket and weeping gasket where the dizzy is...the front cam seals seem to be ok...so i'll leave them for now, and check on them later i guess...for now though, it's just thorough cleaning of the **** already built up!

 

and...BAM, photos.
oil under spark plug valley cover...i assume its come from a seal somewhere due to blocked PCV system...

unless someone wants to shed some light on why?

****ty gearknob...



broken plastic...may have found good replacement

mmm MSD...it's red! makes the car go faster!!!


bad picture showing much cleaner CPS


think i may need to pull the turbo off to get it 100% clean...so, may just do my best

also. turbo has NO shaft play! stoked with that too!

yay! headlight wipers...



quality...


getting there...slowly but surely getting there...

 

new photo day!
so, what goes where this plastic bag is...


generally one of these.

now, i just need to go buy a new filter for it, finally i'm not worried about **** falling into the blower motor.

now, this little do-dad..




is something i knocked up...i wanted a new headunit, because my current one kept on dying/cutting out, but i didn't want to hack up the factory loom(s) in case i ever wanted to put an original one back in...

so, i pulled apart a second headunit, for its amp plug and for its main harness plug...
found a better plug that would suit the amp cable at Jaycar (i don't know if you guys have one in the states?)
and an RCA block for ease of connections to the back of
This!
my CDA-7998R


so, i now use the factory amp and speakers (for now, speakers i'll change out soonish) with my new flashy headunit...waiting for my HDA-5460 to arrive before i can finish off the stereo (in the main stack) completely...


i still need to finish off the mounting for it (i'm using the factory push pull tab things, works great!)


Not too bad for blending in...

also, my EBC arrived today, so i'll begin wiring that in too...
anyone got any tips on that?

it too will be hidden in the glovebox with the Alpine EQ...

it should all be pretty 'stealth' as far as stereo installs and stuff goes...

 

and...EBC DONE!
ran out of Vac lines though



the aim of the game is stealth...



i know it covers one of the compliance plates, but it's easily moved out of the way to show the police if they want to see it...

also...
Much cleaner!
should have taken a before shot!





Tomorrow...well im not sure what i'll do tomorrow, still need a radiator till i can drive the car again