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2011 C30 Oil Pan

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Old Aug 9, 2022 | 05:53 PM
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Default 2011 C30 Oil Pan

I replaced a cracked oil pan in my 2011 C30 R design. Got the pan and gaskets, did the full replacement and I don't have leaks but I have my oil pressure light on. Removed the pressure sender and connected an oil pressure gage and the pressure was lower than it needed to be but it was high enough to turn off the light at high rpms. Anyone have any clue what could be causing this? Were pretty stumped at the moment
 
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Old Aug 9, 2022 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by G.wicht
I replaced a cracked oil pan but I have my oil pressure light on.
Perhaps those new orings you installed did not stay in place when you put the new pan back on?

That would be where I would look - has happened to my techs a couple of times
Also when you are there the second time - make sure you have the new style plastic oil pickup tube - the metal ones tend to get clogged and cause oil starvation problems,
 
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Old Aug 9, 2022 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hoonk
Perhaps those new orings you installed did not stay in place when you put the new pan back on?

That would be where I would look - has happened to my techs a couple of times
Also when you are there the second time - make sure you have the new style plastic oil pickup tube - the metal ones tend to get clogged and cause oil starvation problems,
So funny thing is we actually had that problem with the orings, we've taken it off twice before I posted this, the rings shifted then got destroyed when we torqued the bolts down. We replaced the orings and were much more careful when placing the pan, we used some type 3 aviation sealant behind the rings to hold them in place. I'm certain they didn't shift again but can't know unless I remove the pan again.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 10:39 AM
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Just out of curiosity...how did you crack your oil pan?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by anacortesian
Just out of curiosity...how did you crack your oil pan?

Pan was cracked before I bought the car and we didn't see it at the time. Previous owner covered the cracks all up with jb weld which did stop the leak but we wanted to replace it and not run the risk of it falling apart down the road. Got a new oem one from carparts.com
 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 12:26 PM
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Yeah, he probably bottomed out on a curb. There should have been a big plastic OEM under-carriage shield (essentially useless unless you get the after market aluminum one) to protect the belts and pan. Or if you see that this skid-plate has been replaced...dead give-away. I mention this as others buying this car may want to make a quick visual check at first inspection. I bought my 2009 C30 two years ago. Private sale. $8500, excellent condition, 58K on the clock. Honest owners. Guys wife only drove the kids to school and home a few days a week. They did a complete check at the Volvo Dealership they used for everything on the car just before I bought it. I get it checked by my guy maybe 200 miles later and he tells me they (turns out it was the Volvo dealership tech) overfilled the oil in an oil change by a quart. Put in 7...supposed to be 6. We drained out a quart. I haven't had any problems since. I've put on about 4000 mi...but I drove it very carefully in those 200 or so miles after I bought it. My guy says it probably didn't hurt the car (unless you continued driving it that way of course). So I think I'm lucky there...but no matter how careful you are when your buying a used car...you take your chances. So you try to be well informed.
 

Last edited by anacortesian; Aug 10, 2022 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by anacortesian
Yeah, he probably bottomed out on a curb. There should have been a big plastic OEM under-carriage shield (essentially useless unless you get the after market aluminum one) to protect the belts and pan. Or if you see that this skid-plate has been replaced...dead give-away. I mention this as others buying this car may want to make a quick visual check at first inspection. I bought my 2009 C30 two years ago. Private sale. $8500, excellent condition, 58K on the clock. Honest owners. Guys wife only drove the kids to school and home a few days a week. They did a complete check at the Volvo Dealership they used for everything on the car just before I bought it. I get it checked by my guy maybe 200 miles later and he tells me they (turns out it was the Volvo dealership tech) overfilled the oil in an oil change by a quart. Put in 7...supposed to be 6. We drained out a quart. I haven't had any problems since. I've put on about 4000 mi...but I drove it very carefully in those 200 or so miles after I bought it. My guy says it probably didn't hurt the car (unless you continued driving it that way of course). So I think I'm lucky there...but no matter how careful you are when your buying a used car...you take your chances. So you try to be well informed.

Yea it's something we should've checked more but I believe we just found the oil pressure problem. When blowing air through the passage ways (the ones with the orings going to the cooler and from the cooler) in the new pan we could see the oil moving from the air. When we did the Sam's thing on the old one that didn't have oil pressure issues, despite the crack on the bottom, no oil moved. I believe the new pan was manufactured poorly at the gold colored tubes connecting to the oil cooler
 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 01:15 PM
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So I removed the oil pan for the third time and the o rings were fine. However when blowing air through the cooler holes on the pan as well as the exit portions, where the o rings are on the mating surface to the engine block, and I could see the oil moving around due to the air, which shouldn't happen. I tried the same thing on the old pan which was cracked but didn't have oil pressure issues and the oil never moved. I believe the connecting for those gold colored pipes was put together improperly or broken when they made it. Pissed it took so much time to just to find out the oem product I paid for was out together wrong
 
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 01:09 PM
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Hi! Im new in the forum. Im from Argentina and recently purchased an C30 withe the 2.4 non turbo engine from 2009. It has a crack in the Oil Pan, its been repaired but i want to change it. Searching for a new Oil Pan i found 2... The original one wich cost me, with shipping to Argentina something like 750 us dollars, and i got another, non original, for 250.
Wich one do i buy? The original one or the copy? Do you think there is a big difference in terms of quality or durability?
Thank you!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2023 | 02:19 PM
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STOP. Your oil pan is $84.60 NEW on ebayhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/333247719638?fits=Year%3A2009%7CModel%3AC30%7CMake %3AVolvo&hash=item4d971ca8d6:g:bWcAAOSwfUljt3qW&am data=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4FaUmX8FBWJvw4AIdcvOhwpaN5nGSVJ MDDZnma5fI41nciNgQxE5%2F%2BbVfTAcDPNeAT85PoSa32kPC %2BZyoA%2BwhaUiKsQVcB%2F1L3k8uJzevEGYbktRebc18jEcZ 1QKroPACMSOSOLT5Gu%2FS2YluABGKq8HFgRCBbC%2B972htQo EJM8Kz6bb6hd%2BZfAqdlhTPmhczCGICSZitPrFWht0G6CgCS7 iVlmwAlRIQAAgJ91Am2E52tXm9KT3lj75yAPlpkk46b3kCDxpP BtLCSj%2BUktPAcXXOifNxsOT8YwynCQ2%2BOBt%7Ctkp%3ABF BMhsufqsZh

...BUT...Just as a cautionary...I would not drive the car unnecessarily until you can get the pan installed...that's the pricey part...got to be a good Volvo place. Dealer place will be way high.
 
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