Central locking failed, and I really didn't care because the key works in the driver's door and trunk. Trunk "popper" has been working intermittently.

The key is no longer disabling the alarm, but is apparently setting it, because the anti-theft setting is keeping it from starting. Owner's manual says to turn the key in the driver's door to turn off the anti-theft lockout. NOPE.

I live on an island, and don't need the alarm, everyone ignores them anyway. However, the car is needed for use. I'm hardy and don't need the key fob to work, either, I just want to drive the freaking car.

Any suggestions on getting the car started and the alarm disabled permanently? If not, where is the central locking module located? I'm certain it's $500.

Thanks!

 

Further investigation into this dilemma shows that while the power is still getting to the door locks via the door buttons, the immobilizer of course kicked in. The key fob signal is simply not getting to the receiving unit. Researching online tonight, I ran into descriptions of what could be wrong. One of three things must have happened, since the fuses are all good. The receiver is fried, the ring antenna is shot, or there is a short somewhere. Both key fobs were tested, and nothing... the batteries in both are near-new.

There is a bypass unit available from Volvo dealers. I don't know the part number, but the systems must be REALLY problematic if Volvo itself allowed such a fix to be made available.

The answer likely has something to do with the door lock being unable to shut off the immobilizer. My biggest worry is having the car towed for such a stupid problem. I had a car dropped by a tow truck in 1999 and they told me to "call your insurance company." I almost physically attacked that *******, and eventually took him to court, where I only got a partial award. I lost over $700 including towing, despite the award.

Perhaps the mechanic can visit the car where it is disabled, plug in his laptop, and reset the immobilizer. I'm hoping for the best.

 

I would start with the ring antenna. THat seems to be a weak point on those cars. Someone even had one for sale on VS 2 weeks ago and it was a "backup" incase the other in his car went

 

The key does disarm the factory alarm. It is a double pulse unlock with the first pulse used for deactivation.
The fobs/remotes while related are not what sends the signal to the immobilizer. This is done by the key itself. It is active regardless of whether the system is armed or disarmed. Never seen the bypass unit you describe, perhaps you could post a part number for others.

 

Very helpful, thanks. Perhaps the key I am using somehow got mis-coded. I'll go back to the car with both spares and see if they work.

 

Unlikely but not out the realm of possibility. More likely intereference from another RF source(possible other keys, gym tags, work ID's, etc...) or a problem with immobilizer related equipment or connections. I would advise to just have a single key and factory remote in the cylinder when you are starting the vehicle. This will decrease the chance of RF intereference from other sources.