C70 RDAR battery drain step by step
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
Likes: 3
battery drain
The unit is located under the antenna to maintain a short distance from unit to antenna. I also obtained the MOST loop from a volvo dealer ($20, did not trust what I might get on Amazon given the small cost differential), and installed. Have never had a drain issue post installation.
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 8
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IIRC, the unit is further to the rear in the trunk, passenger side. It looks like someone harps done a video tutorial since my original post. I’ve not reviewed it but you can find it here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...c1KGPqxpDdMnR1
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
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Thanks! I printed out the written directions, found the unit and installed the MOST loop. So far so good. I very happily cancelled my appointment with Volvo (scheduled for tomorrow) to install the computer module.
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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MOST Loop
I find it interesting that, to have Volvo do anything, it costs a bundle vs. why wouldn't they just do suggest such a solution for $50 plus the cost of the loop. Ah well. No wonder we have the DIY... other than it makes life interesting to do ourselves.
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Joined: Jul 2021
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I’m back (unfortunately). It seems the MOST Loop fixed my battery drain issue which is good news. But I am now having a problem with the engine not turning over easily. I always get there in the end (i.e. I have not been stranded like I was when the battery died) but it’s a bit nerve wracking driving a car that might not start. I stopped at my local Volvo mechanic’s garage where they ran a scan which seemed to indicate something is wrong with the fuel pump (and the car is acting like that is the problem).
My question is: has anyone else who had the Sirrius radio drain issue (which was resolved by installing the MOST loop) also had problems with the fuel pump? I’m trying to determine if it is just coincidence that the fuel pump is going now or if it is somehow related to an electrical/Sirrius radio issue (and the fuel pump is actually okay).
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
My question is: has anyone else who had the Sirrius radio drain issue (which was resolved by installing the MOST loop) also had problems with the fuel pump? I’m trying to determine if it is just coincidence that the fuel pump is going now or if it is somehow related to an electrical/Sirrius radio issue (and the fuel pump is actually okay).
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 30
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I’m back (unfortunately). It seems the MOST Loop fixed my battery drain issue which is good news. But I am now having a problem with the engine not turning over easily. I always get there in the end (i.e. I have not been stranded like I was when the battery died) but it’s a bit nerve wracking driving a car that might not start. I stopped at my local Volvo mechanic’s garage where they ran a scan which seemed to indicate something is wrong with the fuel pump (and the car is acting like that is the problem).
My question is: has anyone else who had the Sirrius radio drain issue (which was resolved by installing the MOST loop) also had problems with the fuel pump? I’m trying to determine if it is just coincidence that the fuel pump is going now or if it is somehow related to an electrical/Sirrius radio issue (and the fuel pump is actually okay).
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
My question is: has anyone else who had the Sirrius radio drain issue (which was resolved by installing the MOST loop) also had problems with the fuel pump? I’m trying to determine if it is just coincidence that the fuel pump is going now or if it is somehow related to an electrical/Sirrius radio issue (and the fuel pump is actually okay).
Any thoughts would be much appreciated!
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 5
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That seems like a coincidence to me. How old is the battery in the car? When our old one had the issue, I found the battery was weak. I believe it was 5-6 years old. When I got my next one, which was around the same age, I just replaced the battery and have not had an issue. If the battery isn't an issue, then I would think it is unrelated.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 12
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Hi all. I recently ran into the dreaded satellite battery drain issue. I dug around through multiple posts on multiple forums to get the 8nfo I needed and thought I’d post a step by step to consolidate the info.
Problem - Battery would drain in 3-5 days if not used.
1. Verify drain. Hook up an ammeter on the 10amp range in line on the negative side of the battery. You will see an initial current of around three amps as systems wake up. This will settle down to about .5 amp. (Which is way too high)
2. Isolate the satellite/ RDAR circuit. On he 2009 C70, pull fuse F16 in the engine bay. Current should drop to zero. (It’s not actually zero but it’s low enough that the 10amp scale doesn’t show it)
3. Reinstall F16, disconnect the meter and in the interior fuse box, pull fuse F64. F64 feeds the RDAR unit and the lock indicators. Econ next the meter to the battery. You will get the initial current of three amps or so. This will drop down to zero after 30 seconds or so.
***IMPORTANT - be sure to disconnect the meter if you open either door. When you open the door, current will jump to about 3-4amps from the dome lights and will drop as they dim and go off. BUT, opening the door apparently wakes up some systems that draw around .6 amp and they do not go back to sleep for 30-40 minuets! This can cause you to chase gremlins that are not there.
4. You have now verified the problem. Now for the fix. You have two choices: get the software upgrade from the dealer. If your car is out of warranty, this reportedly costs upwards of $150. (Side note - there is an class action against Volvo currently in the courts because of this)
The second choice is to disconnect the RDAR unit. In my car, it’s in the trunk, passenger side. You have to loosen the trunk liner to get to it but it’s just a couple clips. No tools needed. The power connector is the lower one at the rear of the unit. Pulling the power will remove the battery drain but now you will have no radio.
The audio system has a fiber optic data loop that will disable the radio if the circuit is not complete. The work around for this is to get a MOST loop. This is essentially a connector that loops the fiber back on itself. You can get one on amazon or eBay. Get the female connector, i paid $14.99 on amazon prime. The data loop is the connector with two orange wires on the rear of the unit. Unplug and then connect the loop.
Double check that the draw is gone and button things up.
Realistically, if you have the MOST loop, you should be able to finish everything in under an hour.
Hope this helps.
Problem - Battery would drain in 3-5 days if not used.
1. Verify drain. Hook up an ammeter on the 10amp range in line on the negative side of the battery. You will see an initial current of around three amps as systems wake up. This will settle down to about .5 amp. (Which is way too high)
2. Isolate the satellite/ RDAR circuit. On he 2009 C70, pull fuse F16 in the engine bay. Current should drop to zero. (It’s not actually zero but it’s low enough that the 10amp scale doesn’t show it)
3. Reinstall F16, disconnect the meter and in the interior fuse box, pull fuse F64. F64 feeds the RDAR unit and the lock indicators. Econ next the meter to the battery. You will get the initial current of three amps or so. This will drop down to zero after 30 seconds or so.
***IMPORTANT - be sure to disconnect the meter if you open either door. When you open the door, current will jump to about 3-4amps from the dome lights and will drop as they dim and go off. BUT, opening the door apparently wakes up some systems that draw around .6 amp and they do not go back to sleep for 30-40 minuets! This can cause you to chase gremlins that are not there.
4. You have now verified the problem. Now for the fix. You have two choices: get the software upgrade from the dealer. If your car is out of warranty, this reportedly costs upwards of $150. (Side note - there is an class action against Volvo currently in the courts because of this)
The second choice is to disconnect the RDAR unit. In my car, it’s in the trunk, passenger side. You have to loosen the trunk liner to get to it but it’s just a couple clips. No tools needed. The power connector is the lower one at the rear of the unit. Pulling the power will remove the battery drain but now you will have no radio.
The audio system has a fiber optic data loop that will disable the radio if the circuit is not complete. The work around for this is to get a MOST loop. This is essentially a connector that loops the fiber back on itself. You can get one on amazon or eBay. Get the female connector, i paid $14.99 on amazon prime. The data loop is the connector with two orange wires on the rear of the unit. Unplug and then connect the loop.
Double check that the draw is gone and button things up.
Realistically, if you have the MOST loop, you should be able to finish everything in under an hour.
Hope this helps.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Temporarily isn't it enough to just remove fuse 64 and then it's disable till I get the MOST loop?
Hi all. I recently ran into the dreaded satellite battery drain issue. I dug around through multiple posts on multiple forums to get the 8nfo I needed and thought I’d post a step by step to consolidate the info.
Problem - Battery would drain in 3-5 days if not used.
1. Verify drain. Hook up an ammeter on the 10amp range in line on the negative side of the battery. You will see an initial current of around three amps as systems wake up. This will settle down to about .5 amp. (Which is way too high)
2. Isolate the satellite/ RDAR circuit. On he 2009 C70, pull fuse F16 in the engine bay. Current should drop to zero. (It’s not actually zero but it’s low enough that the 10amp scale doesn’t show it)
3. Reinstall F16, disconnect the meter and in the interior fuse box, pull fuse F64. F64 feeds the RDAR unit and the lock indicators. Econ next the meter to the battery. You will get the initial current of three amps or so. This will drop down to zero after 30 seconds or so.
***IMPORTANT - be sure to disconnect the meter if you open either door. When you open the door, current will jump to about 3-4amps from the dome lights and will drop as they dim and go off. BUT, opening the door apparently wakes up some systems that draw around .6 amp and they do not go back to sleep for 30-40 minuets! This can cause you to chase gremlins that are not there.
4. You have now verified the problem. Now for the fix. You have two choices: get the software upgrade from the dealer. If your car is out of warranty, this reportedly costs upwards of $150. (Side note - there is an class action against Volvo currently in the courts because of this)
The second choice is to disconnect the RDAR unit. In my car, it’s in the trunk, passenger side. You have to loosen the trunk liner to get to it but it’s just a couple clips. No tools needed. The power connector is the lower one at the rear of the unit. Pulling the power will remove the battery drain but now you will have no radio.
The audio system has a fiber optic data loop that will disable the radio if the circuit is not complete. The work around for this is to get a MOST loop. This is essentially a connector that loops the fiber back on itself. You can get one on amazon or eBay. Get the female connector, i paid $14.99 on amazon prime. The data loop is the connector with two orange wires on the rear of the unit. Unplug and then connect the loop.
Double check that the draw is gone and button things up.
Realistically, if you have the MOST loop, you should be able to finish everything in under an hour.
Hope this helps.
Problem - Battery would drain in 3-5 days if not used.
1. Verify drain. Hook up an ammeter on the 10amp range in line on the negative side of the battery. You will see an initial current of around three amps as systems wake up. This will settle down to about .5 amp. (Which is way too high)
2. Isolate the satellite/ RDAR circuit. On he 2009 C70, pull fuse F16 in the engine bay. Current should drop to zero. (It’s not actually zero but it’s low enough that the 10amp scale doesn’t show it)
3. Reinstall F16, disconnect the meter and in the interior fuse box, pull fuse F64. F64 feeds the RDAR unit and the lock indicators. Econ next the meter to the battery. You will get the initial current of three amps or so. This will drop down to zero after 30 seconds or so.
***IMPORTANT - be sure to disconnect the meter if you open either door. When you open the door, current will jump to about 3-4amps from the dome lights and will drop as they dim and go off. BUT, opening the door apparently wakes up some systems that draw around .6 amp and they do not go back to sleep for 30-40 minuets! This can cause you to chase gremlins that are not there.
4. You have now verified the problem. Now for the fix. You have two choices: get the software upgrade from the dealer. If your car is out of warranty, this reportedly costs upwards of $150. (Side note - there is an class action against Volvo currently in the courts because of this)
The second choice is to disconnect the RDAR unit. In my car, it’s in the trunk, passenger side. You have to loosen the trunk liner to get to it but it’s just a couple clips. No tools needed. The power connector is the lower one at the rear of the unit. Pulling the power will remove the battery drain but now you will have no radio.
The audio system has a fiber optic data loop that will disable the radio if the circuit is not complete. The work around for this is to get a MOST loop. This is essentially a connector that loops the fiber back on itself. You can get one on amazon or eBay. Get the female connector, i paid $14.99 on amazon prime. The data loop is the connector with two orange wires on the rear of the unit. Unplug and then connect the loop.
Double check that the draw is gone and button things up.
Realistically, if you have the MOST loop, you should be able to finish everything in under an hour.
Hope this helps.
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