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New owner questions

Old 05-01-2018, 01:49 PM
Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 6
Default New owner questions

Hello all,

So I just acquired my first volvo. 2007 C70 T5,(130xxx mi)
I'm a Jeep guy, so even though I can rebuild motors, I'm way out of my element with this car.
It seems very hard to find info on this specific model when diagnosing problems.

My biggest question is what vehicles can I cross reference? Is anything with a T5 basically the same?

What things should I be keeping an eye on with this car? Common issues, Do's and Dont's, etc.

Right now I'm working on a nasty set of issues, the DTC list is as follows;
P0027- Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0026- Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Perf. B1
P0560- System Voltage Malfunction
P0300- Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301- Misfire on 1
P0302- Misfire on 2
P0303- Misfire on 3

My current theory is since i am WAY overdue for an oil change the oil and filter canister are garbage, which in turn has caused the Exhaust/Intake Valve Control Solenoid to malfunction.
I'm hoping that an oil change will fix it, or if not maybe remove the solenoid and clean it or replace it. I'm assuming that the misfires are due to the valve control failure.
Not sure what the System Voltage Malfunction is all about, but since all this popped up at the same time, im just going to assume its somehow related.

Any help/tips/advice would be fantastic

Old 05-01-2018, 07:28 PM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ridgefield, CT
Posts: 4,788

go with an OEM oil filter and make sure the car has the correct weight oil. Any issues with the oil pressure light (if so, consider dropping the oil pan and inspecting for sludge)? Any PCV issues? On the earlier Volvos the VVT assembly is driven by oil pressure, so some people have had good luck with a seafoam treatment to clean out the galleys. You may wind up needing to replace the solenoids. I'd bet the misfires are due to the valve timing being off due as well so I'd do the oil/consider the seafoam/clear codes and see what returns.
Old 05-02-2018, 12:04 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 9

I just did the timing belt on my wifes car and had misfire codes and hard start randomly. The timing was off. I'd double check the cam/crank alignment. These do not use TDC per se, but cam/crank alignment.

You have to take the crank pulley off to see the markings.
The cam marks on MY C70 were paint dots - the alignment marks are under the plastic cover - You'll need to remove the top two covers then put the top one back on to see the alignment.
Will make sense when you look at it....

The crank pulley only has the ac compressor belt on it so not a big deal to remove that and remove the pulley with an impact. I had to heat mine with a torch to get it loose.
Put the nut back on to turn the crank once the pulley is off.

You CAN turn the cams independently of each other.

NONE of this may be the cause, but figured I'd offer the little I know since I just went through this. My cams were misaligned after the install and I had to redo the alignment.

Also... just take the 5 mins and remove the fender liner vs pulling it back. Its nice having it completely out of the way.

P.S. - while I'm typing - put a board and jack under the motor - remove the passenger motor mount so you can get to the cams.
The coolant tank lifts and sits on top of the motor without disconnecting anything.
Raise and lower the motor as necessary to get to the timing belt tensioner. Use a nail to hold the tensioner in full release.
If the engine is at the right height you can reach right under and slide the nail in. I'm 6'3" though and could do this by myself while holding the tensioner
You'll also lift and lower the motor to see the crank alignment marks and to be able to get the torx in the cam in the rear if it needs moving - tight fit on that one if your torx is on a ratchet.

Hope this helps

Last edited by SNYSIDUP; 05-02-2018 at 12:09 PM.
Old 05-02-2018, 05:17 PM
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 6

Thanks guys
so I got the oil changed, pulled the negative battery cable, the check engine light did go off, but came right back on during my test drive. New codes are
For the cam and crank sensors.
The system voltage code also came back.
So now I'm kinda wondering what the deal is, since the intake and exhaust valve timing codes did NOT come back.
I tried to pull the valve sensors but they were really in there tight, plus I just moved and most of my tools are still at my old house two hours away from my new place
​place. I kinda think the valve sensors are clogged or something with dirty oil, and trick to pulling them without breaking them?
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