PCV Valve Location
there's no PCV "valve" per se, there's a PCV system which includes hoses to/from the block and into the intake with an oil separator (aka flame trap) allowing the gasses to go back into the intake and return the oil to the block.
To access, you need to pop off the injectors/fuel rail then lift up the intake manifold. The PCV system is located under the intake manifold on the front side of the block.
Note this is a common service item for your car and should be done right or you risk a clogged system blowing out your cam seals or main seals. Doing right means new parts and cleaning out the ports into the block so you don't worry about it for another 100-150K miles.
To access, you need to pop off the injectors/fuel rail then lift up the intake manifold. The PCV system is located under the intake manifold on the front side of the block.
Note this is a common service item for your car and should be done right or you risk a clogged system blowing out your cam seals or main seals. Doing right means new parts and cleaning out the ports into the block so you don't worry about it for another 100-150K miles.
my experience is with older high mileage cars where the ports can be clogged to the point they need to be "rodded out" to get rid of all the gunk. Some people have suggested doing a Seafoam treatment to the oil (it adds detergent so you run it for like 50 or 100 miles then change the oil), others have suggested dropping the oil pan and really do an inside and out clean up (bonus is you can freshen the o-rings on the oil pump) but I guess it really depends if you have a serious clog or you are just staying on top of the maintenance. Did you do the dipstick test or the oil filler rubber glove test to see if you have positive crankcase pressure? Check Youtube for some vids on testing for crankcase pressure and some commentary on Seafoam and other cleaning techniques.
To be honest I'm just overly thorough when i buy an older car I know nothing about,especially when the car looks neglected the way this one was, it has gunk around all the inlets of the hoses i disconnected from the PCV valve oil trap and it itself looks to be pretty nasty but not completely plugged, this is an overwhelming job with hoses in every direction, is this somehow tied into a hose going to the turbo some how as well? I want to clean everything that can possibly help breathe new life into the car,it's running like crap,kinda sluggish when accelerating and jerky, replaced a broken upper motor mount yesterday up top in back of engine. I installed new plugs, got the injectors and fuel rail and intake manifold out, what else should i do while this is all apart? I am new to volvo but not cars, lol. thanks! gas pedal assembly was replaced because of code, i was told the code reader stated TPS was needing replacing a new one is in the front seat, new in box but it looks like the ETM has to be replaced when doing this, i ordered a used one that was built by the company who builds them for over $500.
Oh, i forgot to ask, i bought new oil, filter and antifreeze but not the regular green type, i bought what was recommended, the HOAT type i think, my question is, this car had regular green antifreeze in it, is that not a no no in this car? I bought some prestone coolant flush and cleaner .
general best practice is to do a distilled water flush and not use detergent flushes. At to the correct coolant - its a pretty confusing world out there :-) The coolants these days are all color coded - green, blue, yellow, orange, pink (my wife's Toyota uses the pink ) etc. Best to look at the owners manual to see if they offer a clue - or I'd check in with a Volvo friendly online store like IPD USA or FCP Euro to see what is recommended for the 2000 HP turbo. My 2000 S40 uses the blue...my old 850 had the green... What color is in the car now?
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joshofalltrades
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Jun 9, 2012 09:16 PM



