That Sir, is great news! Going to finish some stuff on my daily driver, then pull it in I think.
And this is the DD.....


I am guessing I'll get a new motor for my LSx powered Range Rover, high dollar water pumps pulley came off, and cooked the 6 liter I have installed in it. It never bloody ends!
So tinkering on the S40 is actually quite refreshing!

Martin

 

Checking out the poor brakes.
Pulled the rear wheels off, guide pins are free both sides.
Went looking under the hood and found the idiotic hose assembly broken at the switch. Part 30616993 from my research.
Trying to fix it, we'll see how that goes. $100 for the part is ridiculous IMHO.

Martin

 

It's a Chinese water pump in a fancy box.

Volvo is very proud of their parts.

 

Supposedly made in California.....But who knows. At around $300 though, the 4 little screws should have red Loctite on them!

Martin

 

Very frustrating. You should call PRW and tell them they owe you a new engine.

Over my many years of wrenching I've become very conservative about the parts I install. OEM or a verified equivalent only, ideally made in Japan.

Made in China is a crap shoot even though they can make good stuff if they're forced to. And yes that's painting with a very broad brush but I just freakin' hate re-dos so the safest option is just say no to C.R.A.P. - Chinese replacement auto parts.

 

PRW will be a battle. They are dragging heels just to warranty the pump. It will result, I'm sure, with some lengthy emails, phone calls, and internet posting.

Martin

 

With everything I'll be doing to the motor, would it just be easier to pull the engine/trans? How long does that take in the real world? Alldata lists just under 9hrs to R&R the motor/trans assembly, so @4-5hrs to pull it out. Anyone done it??
Would be a lot easier to do everything while it's in the air or on a stand, vs fighting for space etc.
Thoughts

Martin

 

I don't think it would be worth it. It's just cam seals, a timing belt and turbo return line seals. None of that is very difficult in the car.

 

Good deal, thank you.

Martin

 

I don't think it's worth it either but here's a thread with a bit more info on a similar model where some work on the clutch was required. He quotes a figure of 8hrs (which I think refers to dropping tranny only) so I think alldata is not far off the mark. I may need to drop my trans some time over the next 12 months...I'm pretty sure I have a modest rear main seal oil leak


Has anyone done a rear main seal job on an X40? - Volvo Owners Club Forum

 

I'll get into it as soon as parts start showing up.
Just pulled the LQ4 out of my Rage Rover and ordered a 385hp LM7 for $3k delivered and no core! Love Chevy LS engines...

Martin

 

wow, how long did pulling THAT engine take you? What kind of set-up have you got? I'm stuck doing most of my work in the drive-way. When it comes to taking the trans out...I may have to beg my in-laws to borrow their garage while they are off to sunny California for the winter.

 

Had it drained down,out and on a stand in @3hrs. Thing is with them, the whole intake has to come off before pulling it, as under that is where you secure the lifting brackets!
Takes a little longer due to it being a far from stock install too. I made adapter plates to reuse the Range Rover AC and Power steering pumps, same for the alternator.
Here is the only known LSx engine in a Range Rover of this model, in the world....Only took me a couple of years, working on it from time to time between work. And some various adapters I had to make. The adapter shaft I had made though, small machine shop in WV, after the 6 liter shredded the one I made here.

 

Strut mounts turned up today, so went ahead and did them after some getting stuff for the LSx Rover in town.
Very straight forward and easy to do, more so after figuring out I didnt need to mark the bolts at the bottom like on most other vehicles (eccentric bolt heads). Found a bad TRE after completion, so ordered a pair of outers.
Now there is no movement on the top mounts though!

Martin

 

It's in the shop, so will be cracking on with a few jobs tomorrow.
Most things are here, timing set turned up today, but the cam holding tool is not here as of yet. Will see about maybe making one, dont know yet.
Lots of other stuff to crack on with though, so not the end of the world.
On a side note.....The Range Rover is getting there. Extended a crap load of wiring today, so I can run it all behind the motor and mount it to the firewall. Got the driver side to finish, but this is how she sits tonight.


Martin

 

Car is in pieces!
Replaced the PCV box and hoses already, and while the intake etc is off, looking at the timing belt.
I followed a couple of EXCELLENT write up's for these jobs, and many thanks to Philr and Pierremcalpine for their efforts.
If anyone wants a picture of anything specific, pipe up now. The cam locking tool isn't here yet, so will look into making one, as well as a crank holding tool.

Martin

 

Rear exhaust seal replaced.
Now the cam lock I ordered is still 2 days out, what is a boy to do?
Break out the band saw and welder and cut/weld some steel I have laying around....
Not painted, and I dont care what it looks like as I will only be using it once, I hope....




Timing belt and water pump time.
The gaskets for the turbo oil return line turned up, but no o ring.....grrr

Martin

 

Got the new timing belt kit on, all cam seals, water pump, tensioners, serpentine belt, PCV box and hoses, and front brakes. Rotated the engine a few times and the marks still line up, without any knocking noises internally....lol
Didnt realize I would need the cam plug on the intake side, but did get the old one back on OK....Then noticed the transmission mount is tossed. Must be @1/2" gap around 2/3rds of it. So now to wait for one of those I guess.
I used a cranking transmission jack to support the engine instead of a floor jack.
Made my own cam holding tool as seen above

Martin

 

You must really like your kid's girlfriend

 

She's OK I guess.....rofl.
They have been together for 3years, so I guess she's going to be around a while yet.
Oh, and the massive oil leak, besides the VVT etc, was a cam seal. Sprayed it down (went through 11 cans of brake clean today so far), and oil was seeping out still. When sliding it over the VVT after removal, it was a very loose fit.
But once I start something, I do it right, meaning I do everything I can see wrong. Be nicer if the parts were readily available here in Mid Mo, but oh well......If it was ANY kind of pickup, I'd be having parts thrown at me!

Martin