05-T5 top engine rebuild
#1
03-13-2019, 11:59 AM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 T5 cranks no start
Hello everyone,
I have posted many things and have received great information, so here is my issue......
I have a 2005 S40 T5, that ran hot due to stuck T-stat. After shutting it down and have it towed back home, I replaced the thermostat and refilled with coolant and hoped for the best, well we know what happen...White smoke out both tailpipes. So I tore the top of engine down, replaced all gaskets, valve seals,water pump, timing belt etc..... rotated engine to #1 piston TDC checked crank marking, it is pointed to the correct mark. Installed head and position cam's with mark aligned. reinstalled cover and timing belt making sure marks stayed aligned. After checking that marks are still aligned, rotated engine by HAND 3X's, ( Engine rotates very easily, a little to easy) and re checked marks.( There was NO biding at anytime) Marks were 3 teeth off, readjust and rotated engine again by hand, this time marks stayed aligned, no biding ever. Reassembled all components and attempted to start. Cranks but no start, getting fuel and spark. Check compression..... every cylinder was under 40psi.... So here we are,,, advice is needed. I guess I should have taken the head to the machine shop the first time. Requesting any help... side note, the engine ran great before the overheat...
Thanks
Usmarine0905
I have posted many things and have received great information, so here is my issue......
I have a 2005 S40 T5, that ran hot due to stuck T-stat. After shutting it down and have it towed back home, I replaced the thermostat and refilled with coolant and hoped for the best, well we know what happen...White smoke out both tailpipes. So I tore the top of engine down, replaced all gaskets, valve seals,water pump, timing belt etc..... rotated engine to #1 piston TDC checked crank marking, it is pointed to the correct mark. Installed head and position cam's with mark aligned. reinstalled cover and timing belt making sure marks stayed aligned. After checking that marks are still aligned, rotated engine by HAND 3X's, ( Engine rotates very easily, a little to easy) and re checked marks.( There was NO biding at anytime) Marks were 3 teeth off, readjust and rotated engine again by hand, this time marks stayed aligned, no biding ever. Reassembled all components and attempted to start. Cranks but no start, getting fuel and spark. Check compression..... every cylinder was under 40psi.... So here we are,,, advice is needed. I guess I should have taken the head to the machine shop the first time. Requesting any help... side note, the engine ran great before the overheat...
Thanks
Usmarine0905
Last edited by usmarine0905; 03-14-2019 at 09:37 PM. Reason: more responses
#2
03-14-2019, 09:38 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update......
I pulled the #1 plug and used my "Borescope" to take a look at valves and piston as I rotated the crank. Vales open and close as designed. I did notice that the intake valves stay open a bit longer as the piston is in the compression stroke. I thought it might be because of the Turbo, to allow maximum air and fuel mixture in to the cylinder. I am lost for the cause of cranks but no start...Possible bad head?
I pulled the #1 plug and used my "Borescope" to take a look at valves and piston as I rotated the crank. Vales open and close as designed. I did notice that the intake valves stay open a bit longer as the piston is in the compression stroke. I thought it might be because of the Turbo, to allow maximum air and fuel mixture in to the cylinder. I am lost for the cause of cranks but no start...Possible bad head?
#3
03-15-2019, 12:14 PM
I can't help but think that the problem has to be a valve timing issue. It's hard to imagine anything else causing such consistent and "almost but not quite" numbers across all the cylinders. The timing marks on a Volvo can be a little fiddly, and can be misinterpreted - I have to believe that your intake cam timing is late (which matches your description and the symptoms perfectly).
#4
03-15-2019, 08:06 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@habbyguy..... I would love to find a way to check it all. The marks and stuff. Felt great about this rebuild and now the air is gone from my sails. Advice is welcomed and needed for this, I am listening again. I have gone out and purchase a camshaft lock tool for the rear of the camshafts. From what I understand about that tool, is to put the crank on that mark, and lock the shafts with the tool, horizontally in line with the groove on the shafts. then where ever the cam marks are, ignore them and replace the timing belt at that time. I am close to correct..???
Thanks in advance..
"Darryl" usmarine0905
Thanks in advance..
"Darryl" usmarine0905
#5
03-16-2019, 12:22 PM
Darryl, I'm really not the expert on Volvo TBs (I could give you loads of advice on 3.5L Honda/Acura TBs though!). I have read (in passing) exhortations that it is absolutely necessary to have the cam-locking tool to do a Volvo TB. I honestly can't imagine why, but that's only because I've never really done a deep dive on the process (not having needed to, and given that the TB on my recently-purchased '05 was done about 10,000 miles before I bought it, I'm not likely to become an expert any time soon). ;-)
I know the timing marks are hard to spot (see my December post to you on the subject). That post also reminded me that you were going to pull the pistons and rehone the cylinders, and install new rings, to correct for some scoring in the cylinder walls. Did you do that?
I know the timing marks are hard to spot (see my December post to you on the subject). That post also reminded me that you were going to pull the pistons and rehone the cylinders, and install new rings, to correct for some scoring in the cylinder walls. Did you do that?
#6
03-16-2019, 04:53 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#8
03-16-2019, 07:48 PM
The cam holder tool is not required for a timing belt change. It makes things easier, but it's not required. You really really want one if you change the CVVT pulley though. Since the CVVT pulley can be mounted in any orientation relative to the timing marks, you want the cam holder tool to hold the cam still while you crank 80 lb/ft of torque on the single bolt to the CVVT gear.
#9
03-16-2019, 08:43 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#10
03-17-2019, 01:04 PM
when you say your car doesn't not have the CVVT, what were you referring to? If I recall you were doing a top end rebuild with the cams out of the car so the cams also need to be set back to "home" for the VVT gear to be in the right position. Pretty sure that's what Hudini was showing in his pic to ensure the gear is mounted on the cam correctly such that you can do the correct alignment procedure.
There's some good reference info in this link - hope it helps or agrees with what you've done so far :-)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=77183
There's some good reference info in this link - hope it helps or agrees with what you've done so far :-)
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=77183
#11
03-17-2019, 07:00 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@mt6127.... Maybe I am lost, CVVT i take as the large (Hub/hump) on the gear of the camshaft, I was just pointing out that mine does not have that. My crank is aligned just like the photo Hudini posted, the both camshafts were aligned using the marks that I highlighted and used. I thought that was setting the cam's back to "home". I never removed the gear sprockets from the camshafts them selves....
Last edited by usmarine0905; 03-17-2019 at 07:15 PM.
#13
03-17-2019, 10:29 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well well, now I know. Thank you. I will use the locking tool tomorrow, and thank you for the link. Looks like good info... thank you. So using the tool will reset back... the cams are locked In,That position which makes them in time..? Now line up the crank as pictured and that will be the new Mark's for timing?? Ok I think I got.. tomorrow it is.. thanks to you all for continued help.
Last edited by usmarine0905; 03-17-2019 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Forgot post
#14
03-28-2019, 10:40 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I have taken the Cylinder head to the machine shop for a complete service.... I will let all know when I pick it up........BTW... I did set the camshafts up with the tools and locking device. still no start, so the issue is NO compression , which is why I sent the head off for service. Does anyone know where I can get some performance camshafts for the T5 S40... 2005.?
#15
03-30-2019, 09:42 AM
Hello, USA marine, I am having the same issue. Everything is timed up, but no compression. Like ridiculously low. So while the engine was in the car, I played around with a leakdown tester, and the only thing I can conclude is that the engine has severe blowby. it shows up as about 50% or greater leakdown, and I took the cams out, and it was the same with the springs holding the valves shut. WHile playing with the leakdown tester, i heard exhaust go out of the exhaust valves, turn the engine, etc, intake valves, turn the engine, and when at tdc, you could hear the air coming out the oil fill tube, just slightly when the valves were supposed to be closed,
SO I don't mean to steal your thread, but I am in the same boat, and really confused. The only thing I can think is, either the pulley turned on the cam, and the timing is off, or the bad cylinder ring/cyl wall seal is gone, and either way, the engine is not building any compression. I have the engine on a stand, any everything apart, and I am going to figure this out eventually...
SO I don't mean to steal your thread, but I am in the same boat, and really confused. The only thing I can think is, either the pulley turned on the cam, and the timing is off, or the bad cylinder ring/cyl wall seal is gone, and either way, the engine is not building any compression. I have the engine on a stand, any everything apart, and I am going to figure this out eventually...
#16
03-30-2019, 11:29 AM
#17
03-30-2019, 11:30 AM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@edognight..... Sorry to hear of your issue. Not knowing the history of the engine you have, ie.. overheat,knock, oil leak etc.. Since you have removed both camshafts from the head, which would cause the valves to remain in the closed position. When you add pressure to the cylinder and it leaks down, and you can hear the air pass through the manifold, I would say the valves or seats are bad in the cylinder head. Take the head to the machine shop for full service, make sure you take them everything... The head, camshafts, cam followers, and the camshaft cover. That is what I did and I am waiting for the call to come and pick up my Cylinder head.
Good luck, keep us posted as I will do the same.....
Usmarine0905
Good luck, keep us posted as I will do the same.....
Usmarine0905
#18
04-03-2019, 03:29 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#19
04-03-2019, 04:08 PM
#20
04-03-2019, 05:25 PM
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post