Hello folks! Hope everyone here had a merry Christmas and happy new year. I am trying to get myself pumped up about doing the aforementioned job on this car. I've just never done one on a DOHC engine before. I have 2 VW diesels that I've done the same job (other than the water pump) on several times. On those the water pump is external. That's the reason for this post.

I printed out the VIDA instructions. Pretty vague IMHO, there's no instructions, just pictures. I can pretty much figure it out I believe. I just have a couple of questions for maybe someone who has done it a time or 2. I would assume you line your marks up before you take the old belt off. That's the way I do my Vw's. But I have a special tool set that locks the injection pump and camshaft so they don't move when installing the new belt.

I still have problems sometimes with the VW's crank moving while putting on the new belt. It's a little aggravating sometimes, but they're great little vehicles once you get one right. Am I going to run into any trouble putting the new belt on this Volvo with the camshafts or the crank moving? Also, it says you need a special tool to hold the crank pulley still while removing the bolts. I've read on this forum on a couple threads that it's not necessary if you have an impact wrench. I have a 1/2" electric one, but it's pretty big. I don't know if it'll fit where I need it to be. I was wondering if you could just break the bolts loose before you take the belt off that pulley.

 

I've done my 2001 twice but not my 2005. It's due though. Let us know if the impact works. I have an air impact that works on struts but don't know if it has the grunt to take on a crank bolt. I made a special tool out of flat steel for my 2001. I wonder if something could be fabbed for the newer engines? Also, on the old 1.9L engines, folks say you can remove the belt without removing the pulley. They say you can still see the timing marks from above.

If you want to assure zero cam movement then either make a cam gear holder out of wood or metal or buy a Volvo cam holder tool off ebay. There are a ton of them for sale. Volvo Camshaft Tool Volvo Applicable New Design Popular Applications Wholesale | eBay and many more like it. I've not had a crank gear move though. As long as no one bumps the starter. With the timing marks lined up the pistons are clear of the valves.

 

Thanks Hudini, I'm glad I posted because it doesn't say anything about that tool in the VIDA R&R section for the timing belt on this vehicle. I figured that at the very least those camshafts had to be locked some kind of way to keep from moving when taking the old belt off and installing the new belt.

 

You shouldn't have an issue with the crank moving. If a cam moves, move it back.

I use an air impact for crank nuts and I've never had one that I couldn't get off with ease. Not sure about the electric impact though.

 

I bought a DeWalt 20V cordless impact wrench because my 1/2" air impact wrench would not loosen a crank bolt on a Hyundai Elantra. The DeWalt DCF889HM2 has 400 ft.lbs. of torque and is a real beast.

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Ok, I just finished my timing belt replacement on my 2005. It was very much like the 2001 but a bit easier. The cams and crank did not move once the timing belt was released. Even banging the exhaust cam gear while r&r'ing the water pump did not move it.

The crank nut came off after I applied some heat from an acetylene torch and hit it with the impact. I used the home made crank holder tool when I tightened the nut back to 130 lb/ft of torque. You have to use a jack to raise and lower the engine multiple times to get to various bolts but it's not difficult.

My home made crank gear holder:

 

I commend you for fabricating that. I am becoming lazier and do what the pros do now. Get the crank bolt tight with the impact wrench and then tighten it another 1/8 turn. What could go wrong?

 

Ha, I hear ya. I looked for an inspection plate to maybe jam a screwdriver into the flexplate teeth but could not find one. That last 1/8 turn might be hard to get.

I forgot to mention that the crank pulley had to be pulled with a 3-jaw gear puller. A larger 2-jaw might work too. Trying to pry it off is not recommended as the thin outer rim might bend.

 

You da man!

 

Stickies on two variations at:

S40/V50 Technical Information, How-To, DIY, FAQ, and More

(my apologies for promoting a different site!)

Space is tight; the engine needs to go up and down multiple times. I used the scissors jack for better control of the lowering.

A trick I learned at the Aveo site was to paint truth marks on the old timing belt and all three sprockets before removing it, transfer the marks to the new belt, and then replace the new belt to the sprocket marks. The cam sprockets moved a little for me, but with the truth marks, I was confident of the positioning.

An impact wrench is fine to pop the nut OFF, but to replace it to spec., you'll need a handle. It is really easy to make. 2 pieces of iron, three holes, and a bolt (if the iron is chromed, it will go faster):