2000 s-40 1.9t cranks but wont start
#1
01-18-2013, 10:56 AM
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2000 s-40 1.9t cranks but wont start
Hello All,
Am trying to help my son in law to trouble shoot his car. As stated it is an S-40 1.9t 2000 model. I have no repair manual on this car, and none is available locally, can get the Haynes 3569 UK within a few days, or something
better, if available.
Main concern first is to start the car and drive to my shop. the only input from the owner is it has been running rough. All I know is battery is cranking
the engine over with no spit, sputter, or other response. When I went to pick
him up I had no tools to check anything, so had him crank with throttle wide open, and nothing. Went to auto store and got some starting fluid, tried spritzing a little in the open air duct without filter while cranking, and nothing.
I think it may me ignition, but don't know. Now am trying to do homework before going back with tools. will have tester for battery, VOM, OTC OBD II scan tool, and misc test tools. Please advise what to look for first.
Thanks,
MEL
Am trying to help my son in law to trouble shoot his car. As stated it is an S-40 1.9t 2000 model. I have no repair manual on this car, and none is available locally, can get the Haynes 3569 UK within a few days, or something
better, if available.
Main concern first is to start the car and drive to my shop. the only input from the owner is it has been running rough. All I know is battery is cranking
the engine over with no spit, sputter, or other response. When I went to pick
him up I had no tools to check anything, so had him crank with throttle wide open, and nothing. Went to auto store and got some starting fluid, tried spritzing a little in the open air duct without filter while cranking, and nothing.
I think it may me ignition, but don't know. Now am trying to do homework before going back with tools. will have tester for battery, VOM, OTC OBD II scan tool, and misc test tools. Please advise what to look for first.
Thanks,
MEL
#2
01-19-2013, 06:03 AM
Any codes stored? Fuses all good? The fuel pump fuse is in the engine bay. The fuel pressure can be checked at the Schrader valve about midway on the fuel rail.
Check the timing belt too. This is an interference engine and more than one has failed or jumped teeth, mine included. A compression check will tell you quick if the engine is damaged.
Long cranking with eventual start is the fuel pressure regulator. Mine would start with the throttle cracked a bit but not idle. I replaced the IAC first with no luck then replaced the FPR which solved it. Some folks have reported it was their IAC only at fault.
There are 2 coil-on-plugs and 2 wires. This engine uses the old "wasted spark" DIS like on 80's GM engines where 2 cylinders fire every revolution but only one cylinder is on compression stroke at a time. It's very reliable for starting and running but will start misfiring when the plastic gets old and cracks causing shorts to the head. Because the spark plugs are so deep it's hard to see or hear the "pop, pop, pop" from the spark jumping. You can check the plugs on the wires easier than the ones under the coils though. Same as old school, plug removed from the head, inserted into plug wire, held against the head while the engine is cranked. Blue spark is good, white or yellow bad.
Check the timing belt too. This is an interference engine and more than one has failed or jumped teeth, mine included. A compression check will tell you quick if the engine is damaged.
Long cranking with eventual start is the fuel pressure regulator. Mine would start with the throttle cracked a bit but not idle. I replaced the IAC first with no luck then replaced the FPR which solved it. Some folks have reported it was their IAC only at fault.
There are 2 coil-on-plugs and 2 wires. This engine uses the old "wasted spark" DIS like on 80's GM engines where 2 cylinders fire every revolution but only one cylinder is on compression stroke at a time. It's very reliable for starting and running but will start misfiring when the plastic gets old and cracks causing shorts to the head. Because the spark plugs are so deep it's hard to see or hear the "pop, pop, pop" from the spark jumping. You can check the plugs on the wires easier than the ones under the coils though. Same as old school, plug removed from the head, inserted into plug wire, held against the head while the engine is cranked. Blue spark is good, white or yellow bad.
#3
01-20-2013, 04:05 PM
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Hello Hudini,
Thank you for your time and in put. We went to the car and, no go, I think it has jumped time. Looked at spark, by pulling #1 plug wire and using phillips screw driver to test, some spark, but weak. Read voltage to coil at 10.5 . Read stored codes and came back to shop to look up. Have P0014, P0015, P1014, P0341, and P1106, P1107. From what I,m reading the first four listed are related to cam timing. Had a wrecker pick up the car and drop at the shop. I would like to have a service manual before I start to tear down, do you have any recommendations ?
Thanks, MEL
Thank you for your time and in put. We went to the car and, no go, I think it has jumped time. Looked at spark, by pulling #1 plug wire and using phillips screw driver to test, some spark, but weak. Read voltage to coil at 10.5 . Read stored codes and came back to shop to look up. Have P0014, P0015, P1014, P0341, and P1106, P1107. From what I,m reading the first four listed are related to cam timing. Had a wrecker pick up the car and drop at the shop. I would like to have a service manual before I start to tear down, do you have any recommendations ?
Thanks, MEL
#4
01-20-2013, 07:28 PM
I used the European version of the Haynes manual as sold by IPD. Plus there are several threads here describing how others have done it. Last is VIDA as it only works with a Pro version of a 32bit Windows system (XP Pro, 7 Pro). It's what the dealer uses but without any official support from Volvo. VIDA does work with the DICE controller, which is very nice if you work on Volvos often. Does not work on 64 bit Windows version AFAIK.
If you line up the cam timing marks on the plastic cam cover you can see if the cams are out of alignment. A compression test will tell you if valves are bent. Here is what the timing mark looks like. It's sometimes hard to see without a strong light.
With damage you have to remove the head. The most important thing here is to not remove the CVVT gear on the exhaust cam. You can replace the exhaust cam seal by slipping it over the other end and working it around the cam lobes. You will also need new cylinder head bolts. The old ones are TTY and already stretched.
Here is a good how-to on an 850 engine. The 1.9L is very similar in design with one less cylinder. On mine I replaced 8 exhaust valves and all the upper gaskets and seals. It's still running over 1.5 years later (fingers crossed).
Replacing The Head Gasket On A Volvo 850
If you line up the cam timing marks on the plastic cam cover you can see if the cams are out of alignment. A compression test will tell you if valves are bent. Here is what the timing mark looks like. It's sometimes hard to see without a strong light.
With damage you have to remove the head. The most important thing here is to not remove the CVVT gear on the exhaust cam. You can replace the exhaust cam seal by slipping it over the other end and working it around the cam lobes. You will also need new cylinder head bolts. The old ones are TTY and already stretched.
Here is a good how-to on an 850 engine. The 1.9L is very similar in design with one less cylinder. On mine I replaced 8 exhaust valves and all the upper gaskets and seals. It's still running over 1.5 years later (fingers crossed).
Replacing The Head Gasket On A Volvo 850
#5
05-30-2013, 05:47 PM
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Hello All,
Here is some feedback with another question. I have taken the course of Volvo Engines 101, but have not passed yet. Thank all of you for this forum and the helpful input I have drawn on for this repair.
Found the timing belt loose, and believe it had jumped time. Note on the firewall shows new timing belt at 135,300 mi. Car has 203,524 mi so new belt with water pump, and both idlers. Removed head and checked at machine shop, no damaged valves and all OK. Oil crud burnt on top of head looks like burnt cornbread, don't have any idea what oil was in this engine. Oil has left a caramel brown varnish on all parts on top of the head, cleaned all that is possible . Pistons had about .030" carbon with marks where the valves had touched. All cleaned up OK . I have learned this engine, B4204T2 , has no way to do a static timing so ordered a tool set by AST 500 , very well machined tooling at way less than I could have made it , and maintain the close tolerance .
Went back together with new gaskets, and bolts as required, new seals and hoses as needed, repaired wiring as needed, oil , Shell Rotella T6 5w40 and filter. All is looking great, fired up with no problem, runs smooth, but the engine oil light stays on. OK we don't run engines with the oil light on. So when first started and oil light did not go off within 2 or 3 seconds turned off and checked wiring, OK, then pulled oil pressure switch and got fresh oil run out, got new switch installed, and start, light still on. Test both switches and both show to be normally closed ( NC ) set up test with pressure regulator and switch opens at 7psi. Got oil pressure test gauge and shows to have 55psi at idle .
Has anyone had a circuit problem with the low oil pressure light or may have suggestions of where to look without tracing the wire?
Thanks again,
MEL
Here is some feedback with another question. I have taken the course of Volvo Engines 101, but have not passed yet. Thank all of you for this forum and the helpful input I have drawn on for this repair.
Found the timing belt loose, and believe it had jumped time. Note on the firewall shows new timing belt at 135,300 mi. Car has 203,524 mi so new belt with water pump, and both idlers. Removed head and checked at machine shop, no damaged valves and all OK. Oil crud burnt on top of head looks like burnt cornbread, don't have any idea what oil was in this engine. Oil has left a caramel brown varnish on all parts on top of the head, cleaned all that is possible . Pistons had about .030" carbon with marks where the valves had touched. All cleaned up OK . I have learned this engine, B4204T2 , has no way to do a static timing so ordered a tool set by AST 500 , very well machined tooling at way less than I could have made it , and maintain the close tolerance .
Went back together with new gaskets, and bolts as required, new seals and hoses as needed, repaired wiring as needed, oil , Shell Rotella T6 5w40 and filter. All is looking great, fired up with no problem, runs smooth, but the engine oil light stays on. OK we don't run engines with the oil light on. So when first started and oil light did not go off within 2 or 3 seconds turned off and checked wiring, OK, then pulled oil pressure switch and got fresh oil run out, got new switch installed, and start, light still on. Test both switches and both show to be normally closed ( NC ) set up test with pressure regulator and switch opens at 7psi. Got oil pressure test gauge and shows to have 55psi at idle .
Has anyone had a circuit problem with the low oil pressure light or may have suggestions of where to look without tracing the wire?
Thanks again,
MEL
#6
06-05-2013, 02:16 AM
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Hello All,
Well, I'm still going to school, oil pressure warning light on, wrong wire on sending switch, duh, same push on bullet for either oil pressure switch and AC compressor clutch. Wire to oil is yellow w/ white tracer, wire to ac is yellow.
It only cost a day and no burnt parts, just one spare oil pressure switch. Changed the connectors at the ac to spades.
MEL
Well, I'm still going to school, oil pressure warning light on, wrong wire on sending switch, duh, same push on bullet for either oil pressure switch and AC compressor clutch. Wire to oil is yellow w/ white tracer, wire to ac is yellow.
It only cost a day and no burnt parts, just one spare oil pressure switch. Changed the connectors at the ac to spades.
MEL
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