2000 S 40 headlamp out, passenger side
Bulbs/fuses are fine. Removed the headlamp assembly, it is fine. Getting current to the line side of the fuse box. Swapped the relays, it isnt the relay. The offending lamp goes on after driving for @ 15-20 minutes, but not consistently. Where are the shunts located? Are they actually inside the CEM?
I'm no electrician so please forgive my stupid question. Are the wires that connect to the bulb getting 12 volts? You said the "line side of the fuse box" which I'm guessing is both ends of the fuse have power, but could also mean the wires that actually connect to the bulb?
Hey, Hudini---
Ironically, I am an Electrician...that is what is so frustrating. Am not getting 12V at the two wires going to the bulb. Am getting 13.4 VDC at the high beam terminal at the 3 wire connector, but the low beam is 0. Go to the separate LH/RH fuse box, and am getting current there. The line side is where current goes into the fuse...the load side is where the current travels downstream to the lights.
On the Forums, people are mentioning shunts, but the locations for a 2000 S40 are vague. One person said that the CEM is preventing the current to the inoperable light, and claims to have tied in (spliced) the working side wire to the inoperable side wire and that worked. Sounds suspect. Also, a technician claims that replacing the CEM on this particular model would NOT require programming. Sounds too good to be true.
Ironically, I am an Electrician...that is what is so frustrating. Am not getting 12V at the two wires going to the bulb. Am getting 13.4 VDC at the high beam terminal at the 3 wire connector, but the low beam is 0. Go to the separate LH/RH fuse box, and am getting current there. The line side is where current goes into the fuse...the load side is where the current travels downstream to the lights.
On the Forums, people are mentioning shunts, but the locations for a 2000 S40 are vague. One person said that the CEM is preventing the current to the inoperable light, and claims to have tied in (spliced) the working side wire to the inoperable side wire and that worked. Sounds suspect. Also, a technician claims that replacing the CEM on this particular model would NOT require programming. Sounds too good to be true.
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