I have a 2000 S40 - the low beams wont work, but the high beams work. I have checked the fuses (both of them) under the hood (10amp).

Any thoughts?

 

Bulbs burnt out? Not trying to be funny. Stranger things have happened.

 

the whole story is that the passenger side went out first - put in a new H7 bulb - would not work. I ended up wiring the passenger bulb to the drivers side bulb so they would both work.

Now they are both out. fuses still good. Im going to start trying with a multimeter to hunt dont the circuit issue

JPJMustang

 

possible bulb connectors, mine burnt out at black earth wire,replaced connectors trouble gone bulb ok

 

I cut the sockets off ( the plastic was starting to crack and was very weak) and wired the bulbs direct.

JPJMustang

 

JP

Do you mean that you ran a jumper wire from the working light to the non-operable one? If so....is it still working?

 

I just had this exact problem with my 2000 S40. Right headlight out a couple years ago, and the other night both dead. I had already wired the right to the left and changed bulbs. It ended up being the CEM - Central Electronic Module. It's located under the dash and fairly easy to change yourself. Not so cheap, got a used one for $250.

 

Good to hear a solution. Thanks for posting the info.

 

The CEM has one relay for each low beam headlight...12 VDC, 15 Amp, 240 Watts SPDT, (single pole, double throw) connected to the CEM circuit board. A few owners have reported de-soldering the bad relays, and soldering in the 5 pin replacement that costs @ $1.50 on the internet. Also, some reported success and some reported problems with used CEM's purchased on eBay. MAke sure that you look at your CEM number to procure a matching one. Apparently this is a common problem accross all recent Volvos when the bulbs/fuses are good, but there is still a headlight fail. I am working on identifying the relay.

 

Any luck?

EDIT: Found more info: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...ight=headlight

 

The Internet company with the required relay is called Digikey.


The part number is JSM1-12V-5

 

Btw, the CEM is easy to remove, but splitting the case was maddening until I discovered a Philips screw hiding under a Volvo decal. I recommend you purchase a spring-loaded solder sucker (@ five USD) to insure a successful swap out of the relay. I am an Electrician but was still apprehensive about trying this myself, but knowing others had done it encouraged me. So glad I did.