2000 S40 - Will not start unless you press the gas
Hello! New to the forum and in need of advise.
I have a 2000 Volvo S40 1.9 turbo.. and having issues.
This just started last nite.. I was up at the neighbors (Thankfully) and could not get my car to start. I finally was able to once I tried pressing the gas while attempting to start the car. Once started if I do not keep the gas on constant it will die right away. I had to keep the gas pressed while shifting into drive also to keep it from dying, and while pulling into my driveway it died since I had to let off the gas.
This morning I went out to try it again.. I guess to see if it was just an odd occurance or something. Well the issue does still remain.
Two weeks ago I did a tune up.. I replaced plugs and wires and also did the ignition coils. Seemed to start and run fine until last night when this happened. (I also put in a new battery a few days later b/c the one I had failed a load test)
Any help would be great! Thank you
I have a 2000 Volvo S40 1.9 turbo.. and having issues.
This just started last nite.. I was up at the neighbors (Thankfully) and could not get my car to start. I finally was able to once I tried pressing the gas while attempting to start the car. Once started if I do not keep the gas on constant it will die right away. I had to keep the gas pressed while shifting into drive also to keep it from dying, and while pulling into my driveway it died since I had to let off the gas.
This morning I went out to try it again.. I guess to see if it was just an odd occurance or something. Well the issue does still remain.
Two weeks ago I did a tune up.. I replaced plugs and wires and also did the ignition coils. Seemed to start and run fine until last night when this happened. (I also put in a new battery a few days later b/c the one I had failed a load test)
Any help would be great! Thank you
It's a bad fuel pressure regulator. Kind of pricey these days. When mine did what you are describing I first replaced the Idle Air Control valve for $200 just to find the issue remained. After searching here I found my answer.
Hudini - Thanks! I had seen that being the reccomended fix for the extended start time... which I have kind of had that issue too.
I wanted to ask you... since I want to fix this asap, would there be any reason that I shouldnt buy from advance auto?
Quick View
BWD/Intermotor Fuel Pressure Regulator
$129.79
I would rather buy from swedishautoparts or autohausaz, but I could likely have from from advance by tomorrow. Any idea? Thanks! also.. advance is 100 bucks cheaper
I wanted to ask you... since I want to fix this asap, would there be any reason that I shouldnt buy from advance auto?
Quick View BWD/Intermotor Fuel Pressure Regulator
$129.79
I would rather buy from swedishautoparts or autohausaz, but I could likely have from from advance by tomorrow. Any idea? Thanks! also.. advance is 100 bucks cheaper
No reason that I know of. In fact I have a story about buying local. When I thought my 2001 needed ignition coils I priced one at Autozone the cheapest at about $40. Since I wasn't 100% sure the coils were the issue I bought the lowest cost one thinking if it weren't the issue at least I wasn't out too much cash. Imagine my surprise when I opened that Duralast box and out popped genuine Volvo coils.
At the time I replaced my FPR the only sources were order online or buy at the dealer. I've not tried the Advance Auto version. Let us know how it goes.
At the time I replaced my FPR the only sources were order online or buy at the dealer. I've not tried the Advance Auto version. Let us know how it goes.
UPS just came with the part and I am pleased to say it is legit Volvo! Very happy that I got genuine for 1/2 the price... I was not sure if I would.
I did order the Ignition coils from Advance Auto also when I did my Tune up and they did not have the volvo stickers on them...
I did order the Ignition coils from Advance Auto also when I did my Tune up and they did not have the volvo stickers on them...
What does EMT stands for? Throttle related I figure but I am not finding a clear answer when I look it up.
From what I can find the ETM is Electronic Throttle Module. It's on the newer 2004.5 and up Volvos. I'm pretty sure the 2000 and 2001 1.9L engines have throttle cables. Not sure about he 2002-2004 1.9L engines.
Is there any way to check your Idle Air Control solenoid? I hate that the FPR was not your problem but hate even more buying parts you don't need (yet). How about just taking the MAF off and cleaning it? Also remove the IAC and clean it and the air passage behind it. Of course the problem with removing the IAC is the gasket might tear requiring a new one.
Do you have a fuel pressure tester? I bought the el cheapo Harbor Freight version for $15 a while ago. The price may be up to $20 now.
Is there any way to check your Idle Air Control solenoid? I hate that the FPR was not your problem but hate even more buying parts you don't need (yet). How about just taking the MAF off and cleaning it? Also remove the IAC and clean it and the air passage behind it. Of course the problem with removing the IAC is the gasket might tear requiring a new one.
Do you have a fuel pressure tester? I bought the el cheapo Harbor Freight version for $15 a while ago. The price may be up to $20 now.
Last edited by Hudini; Oct 28, 2011 at 01:38 PM.
You wanna check the fuel pressure in the rail.Your injectors could be leaking causing an overflow into the intake.Do you smell gas? See if the pressure drops in the rail after you shut of the car.
I did remove the idle air control valve and cleaned it out with carb cleaner yesterday... still no luck. I crank on the starter and it will not start unless the gas is applied and I have to have the gas on at all times or it dies. Perhaps the idle air control valve is shot?
Where is the MAF located? I would very much be willing to try cleaning it today... maybe it would do the trick.
Where is the MAF located? I would very much be willing to try cleaning it today... maybe it would do the trick.
The Mass Airflow sensor is connected to the air cleaner cover. In the picture I posted before you can just see it at the far right of the picture. It has an electrical connector and hose clamps holding it in place. It's pretty easy to clean with MAF cleaner but I'd bet your issue is elsewhere.
I did try this when my car gave me trouble. Make sure the car is cold. You remove the IAC solenoid but leave the electrical connector on the solenoid. Now place your thumb over the open hole on the intake manifold. You then have someone start the car and standby to shut it off if the RPMs go too high. Now you control the idle speed by moving your thumb around on the open hole. As you vary the idle speed with your thumb watch the IAC solenoid to see if it moves. The one thing I can't remember is if my test was a success or failure. I know I bought a new IAC though....lol
I did try this when my car gave me trouble. Make sure the car is cold. You remove the IAC solenoid but leave the electrical connector on the solenoid. Now place your thumb over the open hole on the intake manifold. You then have someone start the car and standby to shut it off if the RPMs go too high. Now you control the idle speed by moving your thumb around on the open hole. As you vary the idle speed with your thumb watch the IAC solenoid to see if it moves. The one thing I can't remember is if my test was a success or failure. I know I bought a new IAC though....lol
Hi Guys
I'm new to this forum, and Volvos in general after logging some 800,000 miles in 4 cylinder BMW's what you describe sounds like a classic vacuum leak. If you haven't already, take some time to check all your vacuum hoses for cracks before you order any more parts. Good luck!
On the BMW I'm putting to pasture a mis-alighned oil fill cap would cause exactly the problem you discribe.
I'm new to this forum, and Volvos in general after logging some 800,000 miles in 4 cylinder BMW's what you describe sounds like a classic vacuum leak. If you haven't already, take some time to check all your vacuum hoses for cracks before you order any more parts. Good luck!
On the BMW I'm putting to pasture a mis-alighned oil fill cap would cause exactly the problem you discribe.
Last edited by Alex G; Oct 31, 2011 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Additional ideas
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