2000 S40 - Won't Start Without Foot on Gas
#1
2000 S40 - Won't Start Without Foot on Gas
My trusty S40 didn't want to start today after driving to my Little's house to pick him up. The car failed to turn over unless I put my foot on the gas. It would start up great if I did that, but then stall out immediately if I took my foot off.
The car started and ran fine driving to his house, and I didn't expect it to fail to start. For some time now, the car has had long crank times (5-8 seconds) and seems like it takes quite a bit to turn over. I also get a hint of gasoline odor coming from the exhaust when starting, but at no other time. The car has an intermittent rough idle, but lately it has been happening less. When it's cold, it is sometimes a little sluggish to respond. I've posted about these issues before, but have done a number of fixes to seem to make things a little better every time.
I ran the computer and got P0102 and P0107. From my searches I'm led to believe these codes have to do with an MAF sensor having low voltage and an MAP sensor.
From my searches of my main symptom, I have learned that the problem may have to do with the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the IAC valve.
The car has 131,000 miles on it. I changed the oil a couple hundred miles ago and the level looks perfect. I replaced the plugs, coils, and wires about 6 months ago and the new ones seem to be working great. I cleaned the IAC valve a month ago (it was filthy) and have driven the car about 1,000 miles without issue. I replaced the battery 15 months ago with a NAPA 10 year model.
I have a friend who is a mechanic that has offered to take a look at the car tomorrow. It has been suggested by my father and my Little's father that I have an issue with the fuel filter, but from my research I think it's something under the hood in the FPR/IAC area. If anyone can offer any help, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
-Andrew
The car started and ran fine driving to his house, and I didn't expect it to fail to start. For some time now, the car has had long crank times (5-8 seconds) and seems like it takes quite a bit to turn over. I also get a hint of gasoline odor coming from the exhaust when starting, but at no other time. The car has an intermittent rough idle, but lately it has been happening less. When it's cold, it is sometimes a little sluggish to respond. I've posted about these issues before, but have done a number of fixes to seem to make things a little better every time.
I ran the computer and got P0102 and P0107. From my searches I'm led to believe these codes have to do with an MAF sensor having low voltage and an MAP sensor.
From my searches of my main symptom, I have learned that the problem may have to do with the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the IAC valve.
The car has 131,000 miles on it. I changed the oil a couple hundred miles ago and the level looks perfect. I replaced the plugs, coils, and wires about 6 months ago and the new ones seem to be working great. I cleaned the IAC valve a month ago (it was filthy) and have driven the car about 1,000 miles without issue. I replaced the battery 15 months ago with a NAPA 10 year model.
I have a friend who is a mechanic that has offered to take a look at the car tomorrow. It has been suggested by my father and my Little's father that I have an issue with the fuel filter, but from my research I think it's something under the hood in the FPR/IAC area. If anyone can offer any help, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
-Andrew
#4
#5
Replaced the FPR today and cleaned the MAP sensor with some spray.
Replacing the FPR went from a routine looking job to a nightmare when the single bolt holding it in place stripped entirely the second I went to unscrew it. Had to Dremel a slot and eventually use a drill with some good torque to undo it. We screwed it back in but didn't make it super tight. Needless to say I should definitely replace that screw before long and tighten it up.
Cleaned out the MAP sensor with some MAF spray that I picked up at Autozone. The concern there is in the wiring...as with all the wiring under my hood, it seems extremely delicate. In addition, one of the wires appears to be stripped a little bit. Hopefully there isn't a short and the wire stays in tact. I was gentle with it. My oil dipstick was also broken in the process so I need to get a new one of those. Plastic was pretty brittle.
The car still wouldn't start but I felt like it was jusssst about to and wanted to so bad. IAC valve replacement was ordered this morning from Amazon and will be in on Thursday. I'll report back then.
Replacing the FPR went from a routine looking job to a nightmare when the single bolt holding it in place stripped entirely the second I went to unscrew it. Had to Dremel a slot and eventually use a drill with some good torque to undo it. We screwed it back in but didn't make it super tight. Needless to say I should definitely replace that screw before long and tighten it up.
Cleaned out the MAP sensor with some MAF spray that I picked up at Autozone. The concern there is in the wiring...as with all the wiring under my hood, it seems extremely delicate. In addition, one of the wires appears to be stripped a little bit. Hopefully there isn't a short and the wire stays in tact. I was gentle with it. My oil dipstick was also broken in the process so I need to get a new one of those. Plastic was pretty brittle.
The car still wouldn't start but I felt like it was jusssst about to and wanted to so bad. IAC valve replacement was ordered this morning from Amazon and will be in on Thursday. I'll report back then.
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