Can use some major help on this one I have a 2000 s40 it over heated so pulled over and shut off asap well it had a little white puff of smoke and oil light came on right before I shut it off no coolant in oil no oil leak oil still at good level did get hot enough to melt the plug cover a little and had small oil fire for a second no wire damage when put water in coolant tank and crank the water shoots back out the reservoir car will crank but no start has spark at all cylinders but if push gas some times sounds like its trying to start any advice would be great

 

Do a compression test to start with. Check thermostat to make sure it is open.

 

I forgot to mention I did compression test both outer cylinders were between 50 and 70 the two inner ones were above 100 went ahead and just pulled the thermostat out and I know for a fact the radiator is shot that's the reason it over heated has a hole in it manly just want to know why I can shut off but then can't restart also if motor is salvageable or if motor swap is in need

 

Most likely blew the head gasket, and they are 'doable' without having to replace the engine. I'm in the same boat, and I'm here to learn the tips/tricks on doing that job. I initially thought I needed an engine, after pulling the head and seeing the condition on the cylinders, but now I'm not so sure. Looks like it might be ok. My biggest concern is the reassembly procedure and realigning the cams and resealing the cam cover.

 

Did you remove the CVVT gear from the exhaust cam? Do you have the Volvo cam alignment tool? The reassembly is much easier with the cam alignment tool. It's very much still possible as long as the CVVT gear was not removed from the cam. If the CVVT is separated from the cam and not marked for alignment then you need the cam alignment tool.

The cam cover is sealed with RTV. I bought a Victor Reinz head gasket kit which included all the various seals and gaskets plus a tube of RTV.

 

I did remove the CVVT assembly from the cam. I didn't disassemble it though, I just removed it as a unit from the cam. It's similar in concept to the Jaguar ones I'm familiar with. I was planning to make the tool as seen elsewhere here to align the 'rear' of the cams during reassembly.
From looking at my cam cover and the top of the head, I'm not seeing where RTV was there before, so how do I know where the sealant goes on? Obviously it has to be very thin because it's also the 'journals' for the cams, and the o-rings around the plug wells are thin as well.
I am trying to decide if I should pull the block apart and put in new piston rings. I just got the car with a blown head gasket, and pulled the head to see what's what. The cylinders don't appear to have any damage (scoring, etc), but wondering if rings are a 'problem area' and should be done, or something that is never needed. Any consensus on that?

 

Mine has 175k plus miles with no excessive crankcase pressure so far. The cylinder hone still looked good too.

Mine starting throwing oil from the little plunger thing on the CVVT gear. This oil got all over the timing belt which eventually caused it to slip and bend the valves. I'd suggest replacing the o-ring on the plunger from the CVVT gear while you have it apart.

Because the CVVT gear can be installed in any orientation relative to the cam lobes, you really need the cam tool unless you marked it well. I marked mine but still managed to be off enough to set the check engine light. It took me several tries before I got it close enough. This is an interference engine so being too far off could cost money.

I too could not see any RTV on the cam cover so I installed mine without RTV. Oil now leaks down the back side of the engine onto my driveway. Maybe if I had the head and cover hot tanked it would have removed enough varnish to make the sealing surfaces perfectly flat again? I don't know. Good luck whichever way you choose. Next time I'm going with a skim coat of RTV.