2001 s40 Clicking/Ticking noise - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


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Old 03-08-2017, 11:51 PM
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Default 2001 s40 Clicking/Ticking noise

Never ending problems with this car I swear... Anyways, I started the car up the other day and let her warm up, when I put it in drive and pulled onto the road I noticed a ticking noise in the center of the engine, sounded like the lifters after a fresh oil change but louder, I drove it around for the day and didn't notice any change. The next day I popped the trunk and gave the throttle a goozen about 30% for 10-15 seconds and I heard one loud audible tick sounded like if something was in the engine and got denigrated after that I herd nothing, it idles fine and there is no ticking when I open the throttle however, whenever I drive now it still clicks/ticks and it goes with the rpms.


any suggestions?
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Old 03-12-2017, 10:40 PM
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Does it vary with engine speed (rpm) or with tire rotation?
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Old 03-12-2017, 11:06 PM
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I'm going to say engine rpm, if I start the engine it will click for about 5 seconds then go back to normal sounding idle. I had someone start the car with my head under the hood to see where the noise is coming from and it sounded like right under the spark plug cover around cylinder 2 or 3. cylinder 2 has an aftermarket coil so I'm not sure if it could be that. I have a full oem tuneup coming up once I get my timing belt replaced in the next couple of days so hopefully it might clear up the problem.
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Old 03-17-2017, 01:42 PM
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almost sounds like a lifter that needs to pump up its oil before quieting down. Does it happen on both cold and warm starts?
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:56 PM
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Yes it's getting pretty audible now on a cold start up but it seems to die down a bit after awhile, I also notice what seems like an exhaust leak on the passagenger side by the turbo that goes with the rpms. I just changed the oil about a month ago, pennsoil 10w30 platinum synthetic. I also have a slight misfire due to corroded connectors which will be replaced this week. If it's the lifters is there a quick fix or will I have to pull them out? I'm also due for a timing belt which is going to be replaced sometime next week as well.


thanks!!!
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Old 03-17-2017, 06:02 PM
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check the flex pipe for the exhaust leak and make sure none of the bolts have broken.
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Old 03-19-2017, 02:38 PM
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Also check the nuts on the exhaust manifold studs. Mine loosened up to make a sewing machine sound that would mostly go away when things expanded due to heat. But on that first cold start up the sound was back again. I used lock nuts to permanently fix the issue (NOT nylock nuts as the nylon will melt).
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:08 PM
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So I decided to do some work on the volvo today, Replaced the coils/wires/sparkplugs/vvt gasket, oil ring gasket and a few other things. I also kept blowing out my dipstick so I lost about a half quart of oil over the last few weeks. I cleaned up the engine and replaced the oil with lucas oil stabilizer and added more synthetic to fill up to level. I noticed that the noise isn't a ticking noise anymore but it has grown to a flutter/exhaust leak sound. It progressively gotten worse. I had someone start the car to hear the sound and it came directly under the turbo heat shield by the wastegate. I checked the hose that runs up and over the side of the engine I believe the intercooler hose. Anyways its fully connected. But the sound is definitely coming from the turbo area. The car has 126K and planned on replacing the turbo soon but do you think this is something that can be fixed at a muffler shop? or does it sound like my turbo is shot? The car makes pretty good power with the tune up however I believe this issue is holding the car back a bit.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:13 PM
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Did you read my post above? The turbo is connected to the exhaust manifold. With a cold engine remove the heat shield then feel around back there for the exhaust manifold nuts. I had one so loose I could unscrew it by hand.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:19 PM
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why blame the turbo? its likely to either be the flex pipe or the exhaust manifold... As to the dipstick blowing out, sounds like the PCV is clogged - try sticking a latex glove on the oil filler cap - if it inflates it means the crankcase gasses are not going back into the intake and need to vent - typically through the dipstick. You will probably blow out your cam seals in short order if not repaired.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:59 PM
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Yes I read everyone's post. I had taken the heat sink off the turbo and noticed the one nut on the left side of the engine above the turbo was completely off and hanging on by a thread. I tightened it up along with the right side but sound still continues. I also just realized after I got home that there are four more bolts hidden in the manifold, are they the same size as the ones that are visible? Also what do you recommend using to tighten the bolts?

After taking the heat sink off I made a few videos which I will post in a few minuets, however when I tried to put the heat sink back on I noticed that all 3 bolts were broken into the exhaust manifold... How important is the turbo heat sink?

There is no CEL and everything is running smoothly.

The pcv system isn't clogged I tried the glove test and removed the dipstick to see if there was smoke but noting. I ordered a new OEM dipstick the current one is pretty beat.

I'm assuming worst case scenario Ill buy a new manifold and turbo and start fresh.

Engine:

interior driving:

Last edited by ChemDad; 03-20-2017 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:28 PM
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Sorry for double post but just got back from the mechanic after pulling my hair out tightening the bolts and trying to figure out the problem.

The sound is a exhaust manifold leak, dude said its warped. Quoted me $600 for labor. I'm thinking about doing it myself but I really don't want to risk breaking a stud
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:45 PM
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I took mine off when I had to remove the head. Left the turbo in place and just unscrewed the nuts. Maybe a few studs came out with the nuts but none broke.

Yours would be the first I've heard that warped. Might want to try new exhaust manifold gaskets. They are somewhat difficult to wrangle into position since it's 4 individual gaskets and not one long gasket. Take a look at a picture of one and you will see why. I spent more than a few minutes draped over the engine getting each into position. Here is a link to IPD's website with the gaskets.

https://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?...gorycrumbs=997
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:13 PM
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I'm a complete noob when it comes to auto repair but I'm pretty smart book wise, I think I can handle the task but if the studs do come out how do you get them back into the head?

How hard will it be to pull off the manifold while leaving the turbo in place also being able to get the gaskets onto the studs?

Will I need a new gasket that goes from the manifold to the turbo since that joint will be getting separated?

The sound keeps getting worse and worse each day I drive it so what are the odds of the manifold being warped? I can buy one on ebay for around 100 bucks. I can also get away with spending $30 on gaskets and call it a day but I'm worried that what if it is warped.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:41 PM
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I didn't actually pull the manifold off. I removed the nuts/studs and pushed it back far enough to clear the head. I left it sitting there still attached to the turbo. If you want to completely remove it then it's 4 more bolts. I hate working with rusty bolts though. Heating them cherry red helps but you have to watch excessive heat on very delicate wiring close by. Oh, the studs just screw into the head same as any other bolt.

If you separate the turbo from the manifold then I would replace the gasket there too. They are cheap, why take chances?

Personally, I'd use a mechanics stethoscope and pinpoint the leak. If it's limited to one cylinder then replace the gasket on that one cylinder and see what happens. You will be leaning over the engine trying to fish that skinny gasket between the manifold and the head while trying to spear the stud into that little bolt hole in the gasket. What's not to enjoy? (/sarcasm) So much fun these little cars.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:56 PM
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Okay shouldn't be too bad, I'd much rather leave the manifold on the turbo since those bolts are pretty rusted...

Did you have to pry the manifold back?

If I was a betting man I'd say its cylinder 3 or 4. there was also a loose bolt on the far right so it could of pushed a gasket out while it was loose.

Any recommendations on getting the gaskets onto place since the manifold is kind of tucked into the engine?
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:17 PM
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You can lay over the engine and look down at the manifold. Plus you can feel the various nuts/studs. It's not fun but it is workable. I believe I removed all the studs then held the gasket with one hand while placing the stud through the gasket's bolt hole. If the stud won't come out easily then maybe you can double nut it if there is room. It's been so long since mine that I can't remember if I removed the studs before or after removing the head. One way to find out....
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:51 PM
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Could I get away with leaving the studs in place or will I have to remove them?

There is just so little room back there and the bolts are sunken into the manifold it seems very difficult to try to double nut while the manifold is in the back of the engine.
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:26 AM
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My guess is yes. If I remember correctly I had to push the manifold clear of the studs to remove the head. Then I removed the studs once the head was clear of the car.

The turbo has an oil drain that you would have to watch out to not bend.
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:49 PM
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Gaskets will be here on Monday, how hard do you think it would be to replace the gaskets and slap on a new turbo? I'd be sticking with the stock T3 low pressure to minimize modification?

If I do replace the turbo will the oil have to be drained before I disconnect the oil lines?
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