2 days ago I got a code of P0015, VVT, I reset the code and it was fine, now today I was out and the car quit on me at a light and threw the code of P0103, MAF, car starts up but hard and also keeps quitting on me at the light, any suggestions? Now it idles super low when it wants too, and when I shut it off the engine fan keeps running, I finally have to disco the battery to stop it

 

the P0103 can be due to the MAF being dirty or faulty or an intake air leak. The fan running is interesting since that may be pointing to a faulty engine coolant temp sensor - which can mess with your ECU into thinking the engine is hot when its still cold (with the computer blaming the MAF for your mixture issue). Does your temp gauge seem to run up to a higher than normal temp or wander around when driving? probably a good starting point is to test/replace the ECT (it sits under the thermstat housing). To access you need to pop off the thermostat cover - you'll lose about a cupful of coolant but don't need to drain the system to replace. Also a good time to freshing up the thermostat.

 

while the fan running is an issue the antenna isnt going down either, but as for the engine issue, the dipstick was half out when I popped the hood, which sorta make me think that the pcv system is bad, im gonna try a few things and let you know what I find, thanks for your input, thank god this isnt my only car, I can always jump into my '66 vw sedan, never lets me down.

 

simple test for the PCV is to stick a latex "surgeons" glove over the oil filler - if it inflates when the engine is running you have positive crankcase pressure. If it sucks in or puffs in and out you are fine. If you do fine you have a clogged PCV, take a look around at all your vacuum lines as the pressure can also blow back and pop off a line or a termination cap.

as to the fan / antenna connection, you'd need to review the wiring diagram - and maybe check the fan relay and the fan motor/connector to ground and work your way back to the antenna to see if there's any common service paths that could allow the fan circuit to sink the current going to the antenna.

back to the ECT, its pretty easy to test - its just a thermocouple so you can google for the resistance value cold and what it is hot. A general rule of thumb is its on the order of 3000 ohms at room temp (ie 70F) and 300 ohms at running temp (ie 185F)

 

Sorry for the dumb question. But do all S40s have a PCV? As in non-turbo, gasoline?

 

yes all modern gas engine cars have PCV breather systems - sometimes you will hear people refer to a flame-trap or oil separator but those are names for a part within the PC system. The way the system works is there are ports in the block (located under the intake manifold) which take the crankcase gasses via hoses into the oil separator (flame trap) - the gas without the oil is then piped back into the intake to get any blowby back into the intake for a new chance to be burned clean. When these hoses or the flame trap clog with oil gunk, the crankcase becomes a sealed system and pressure will build up to the point it can push out cam seals, main seals, the oil dip stick, vacuum lines etc and as a result the engine turns into a bleeder. Generally this happens at about 150K miles - less if the oil wasn't changed often enough, more if you run high quality synthetic with frequent changes.

 

Well, my Volvo is a 2002 non-turbo petrol one. Will dig deep sometimes to find these parts, thanks!

 

ok, oil catch was plugged, took it apart and ordered new hoses and oil catch, cleaned out the hole and blew air through it, so hopefully that will solve the poor running condition, as for the electrical still have to run down the issue

 

also make sure the ports going into the block are not clogged. Sometimes its worth dropping the oil pan to clean the bottom end when doing the PCV.