Hi all,
I've checked out the excellent tutorials but my connections are at the bottom of radiator.
Could someone tell me whether its the top pipe or the bottom from the gear box that expels oil for collection when giving a flush. see picture.
With the fuel pressure regulator, I've gone the cheapest route and purchased this Bosch 0280160557 regulator which I believe is 300 instead of the proper 309 kPa. Has anyone tried this. Will it fit in the plastic housing?
Any help appreciated.

 

On the flush, one of those hoses has a regular screw-type hose clamp on it so someone has been there before. I've done the flush and IIRC you'll find that if you disconnect the hose with the screw-type hose clamp on it the fluid will come out of the cooler, so put a hose on the tranny cooler fitting and you'll be all set.

On the fuel pressure regulator, I tried the same approach with a Bosch 037133035C some time ago. My recollection is the car would not start. Now the Bosch 037133035C I tried was a used unit and so may have been bad causing the no-start. I also recall it didn't fit 100%, though this type of FPR is a standard design and I can't remember what the problem was.

Anyway, in principal what you're trying should work so please report back on your experiment.

 

Cheers for that migbro.
I did think it was a bit shiny for 12 years old. So I guess it has been done. Nothing mentioned in service booklet. The dip stick looks quite clean and doesn't smell burnt, although I have no experience. The car has done 160 000 km, 100 000m and the gear changes seem a bit erratic. Sometimes drawn-out, sometimes clunky. Nowhere near as smooth as my VW bora of the same age, but admittedly half the km's. I've bought the toyota type T-IV so may as well do it anyway. Very expensive in Australia, $56AU for 4 litres no mater where you buy it. So about $167US for full flush.
Is there a product I could add to the current oil to clean box before I flush it?
The cold starts aren't really too bad, especially if I let the fuel pump go for a while beforehand. It would be nice if it started with less cranking though.
I'll let you know how it goes.

 

T-IV is about $6.00/quart here.

Don't know if this will help you in Australia but T-IV, Idemitsu ATF HP and Castrol Transmax J are all the same fluid.

Best product to clean the box before flush is Auto-Rx.

Car should start instantly so definitely change the FPR.

 

So if you're looking at the lines coming off of the cooler.... the one to the hard line that is J shaped is the oil return line.

 

+1 on the Auto-Rx, wonderful product. Must be used according to directions!

 

Thanks for everyone's help. Think I'll change oil and see if there's a difference.
TEEKAY, Are you happy with your electric relay and amber indicator swap on your 2003. My indicators are acting a bit strange. There's no tick tick sound inside the car and on the dash they seem to be irregular. the lights on the outside seem to be working. Just for a relay here I've been quoted $50 from an auto store.

 

My relay has been working since I installed it, no issues. The tick is quieter though. This is the one I got.

Is it hyper flashing?

 

I was wrong. I went for a drive at night and It is making the right sound and seems to work correct most of the time but every now and again the ticking goes really fast and the lights outside and on the dash don't come on at all. Is this most likely to be the regulator or could it be bad contacts or a faulty globe?
So you bought for 2003 s40?
CF13GL-02 LED Bulb Electronic Flasher and
1156 CAN Bus LED Bulb - Single Intensity 26 SMD LED Tower amber

 

I'll check my order history for you. I know I ordered a bunch and returned what I didn't use/need. Pretty sure it was this https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-can-bus-led-bulb--dual-intensity-26-smd-led-tower/1326/3049/ Amber

 

TEEKAY. I ended up sanding the contacts and it seems to be working now. So don't worry if you cant find your order history.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...-access-83304/

 

I installed

It didn't work. Maybe because the original FPR has an extra large o-ring sitting on the lip which I believe is needed to seat the unit properly as I needed a g-clamp to get the original one back on. In retrospect I should have tested to see if that o-ring would fit on the new FPR. Maybe that's the only important difference. The shaft on the new one is slightly shorter and the hole smaller. If I have more problems I'll see if I can get another large o-ring as there's a bit of crud on it, maybe indicating that is was leaking pressure. Does anyone know the part #. see photo

 

The new one did pressurize the rail though, maybe just not enough.

 

Maybe try swapping the oring out to the new one? I bit the bullet and paid my local dealer $140 for an FPR... I still get sick to my stomach thinking about how rediculously overpriced these things are.

And you are right, it is a VERY tight fit. I ended up putting some vasoline on my new one to get it to slip in.