My 2003 Volvo s40 has thrown some error codes recently, these being P0420, P0015, and P0445. From what I have looked up, I would need to check my VVT solenoid and see what is going on. I've been told to replace timing chains and my VVT sprocket. Im just honestly not sure what to do about this problem and want some advice if I should do it myself or let "Pros" do it.

 

420 Catalytic convertor efficiency

0015 Cam timing

445 Evap

Have you erased them and seen how long it takes for them to come back?
Are you wanting to prevent all those codes from 3 different systems from coming back or just focused on the cam timing?

How old is the timing belt - If it was replaced somewhat recently was it aligned correctly when installed? (should be time - every 10 years ) How often is the oil changed? Has it been run low on oil? (VVT works using oil pressure) Those 4 cyl VVT gears were very prone to leaking. Is your leaking?

How many miles on the car? Average 12k a year X 20 years = 240,000 miles - certainly the convertor may not work as well as it did when new. And to be honest you might want to be careful how much you spend on your $1000 car.

 

those three codes are pretty different. The P0420 is a cat efficiency fault where the rear O2 sensor reading is out of the accepted range. common causes include exhaust leaks, misfires, intake air leaks, broken EGR tube or a bad/contaminated converter. On the Gen 1 S40s, its not uncommon for the flex pipe to break (give the car a listen for an noises mid/front). The P0015 says the cam shaft position is closed meaning the VVT on the exhaust cam in not actuating. Could be the VVT hub, could be the actuator, could be the solenoid. The VVT is driven by oil pressure so some people have cleared the code by doing a Seafoam treatment or by removing the VVT and cleaning the galleys (easier to just replace the parts). As you've noted, to remove the hub you need to take the timing belt (not a chain) off. Since you need to do this every 10 years/120K miles anyways, you are probably due for a new timing belt/tensioner anyways. The only trick to doing the timing belt is that the VVT gear needs to be rotated to preset it when putting the belt on - so a pro shop uses a cam lock tool. You can find vids on Youtube to help determine if you want to take this on yourself. Finally you have your P0445 which is an evap purge valve fault. As background, the evap system includes a charcoal cannister that traps fuel vapors from the gas tank and then when the purge valve opens, those vapors are drawn into the intake to be burned. This is supposed to be a sealed system so this code can get set if theres are broken hose between the purge valve and the canister or the purge valve itself has failed. You can find the purge valve up front by the left side between the radiator and headlight. it will have a couple of vaccuum lines and a connector going into it. You can try replacing that - and if that doesn't clear it, you may need a shop to do a smoke test to look for a break in the line that runs all the way back to the cannister...

 

Thank you so much for responding so fast

I am looking more into it, and I believe I will need to replace the solenoid as well as the timing belt due to wear and maybe even the chains and Tensioner. It sat for a very long time, so things are popping up slowly but the miles it has are only around 175,600. Oil has been changed, transmission fluid, serpentine belt, headlights, radiator hoses, struts, coil packs, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel rail, and many many more. It is getting to that 200,000 mark so anything else that I might need to do just tell me, I am a beginner so, anything will be appreciated. I did go out and bought some seafoam, a new solenoid because the one I had was burnt to hell, thermostat, and I believe i might need to replace the timing cam gear or vvt sprocket not sure yet. I do have pictures of everything so if I need we can relay messages back and fourth help is always needed lol.

 

I have not erased codes I don't really know how. I have 175,600 miles on it and the car is from 2003 so the timing belt must be old. I just replaced the oil, and it has never runed low once. Car only has two owner and I know both of them personally and they have told me they maintained the car well. I have no clue if my vvt gears are leaking but i will for sure check and see. I have also already spent a decent amount so no turning back now really. It had a tone of braking issues that I figured out but other then that i have never worked on this car as much besides simple parts.

 

That would be your first step rather than buy parts to fix what you are guessing to be a problem. Reading, erasing, watching for repeat codes - Are the first steps in any diagnostic process. (if possible)

Use a compatible scan tool to read (and record/write down) any codes present in as many control units as your tool will scan. The best scanners can talk to the entire car - all the control units (if networked) - cheapest can only do emission related codes in the ECU and TCU.

After you read the codes tell the scanner to erase them. Drive the car and see what comes back. If none - drive away happy. If something returns - and it has an effect on your quality of life, drivability of the car or ability to get a car registration - From that info develop a rational, reasonable, logical diagnostic process. Usually that is not guess, purchase, install, get more frustrated, and then repeat that process while you keep replacing things that are not needed.

Some auto parts stores will scan (and hopefully erase) for free. Or may have a scan tool to borrow/rent.

SEAFOAM - don't know what you plan to do with that stuff - but your wallet just got a little lighter. Don't put anything inside the crankcase of the engine that IS NOT ENGINE OIL.

"I am a beginner, maybe even the chains, spent a decent amount so no turning back now really."

A VVT timing gear replacement requires special tools and is not a simple job for a "beginner". You can easily make a mistake and bend valves during that job. Your engine does not have "chains" and you can certainly stop spending money on a car that will never be worth it at any time.

 

To read/erase codes, you can borrow an OBD2 scanner from Autozone and other big box parts stores. Some do it for you but there may be state specific rules that don't allow them to (I think New York is one of those). The scanner plugs into a connector under the driver's side of the dash (kind of looks like an old school printer port - about 2 inches wide). Simply plug the scanner in, turn the key to position 2 (dash lights on, engine off) and follow the prompts. Most scanners present the "P" codes ie "P0026" - write these down so you can google them later. From there the scanner menu will allow you to erase the codes. Note if something is truly wrong, the codes will simply reset (some codes are "averaging" so they take a few miles before resetting). Plan B would be to stop by a friendly Indy mechanic and see if they will scan for codes w/o a fee - mine does but the implication is you intend to use them for the repair.

As to the timing belt, the service interval is 120K miles / 10 years for the belt plus tensioner so you are probably already on your second belt and you're due for a service next year, so getting the VVT serviced will take care of that servicing anyways (LOL a $600 value).

To see if your VVT is leaking, start by popping off the timing belt cover (not sure on your model but on mine there was a 12mm bolt in the center of the cover) and the covers over the spark plugs etc. You want to see if there's any weeping from the cam gears at the top, weeping from the water pump and the front main seal.

If you are not up to this task (ie lacking tools, time, skills) its time to find a trusty mechanic who's familiar with euro cars/Volvos etc. This is a common service item so they'd have the experience and tools for replacing the belt, resetting the hub correctly and determining if it needs servicing.