2005 S40i - Key stuck in ignition - nocrank nostart nodash lights - no headlights -
#1
2005 S40i - Key stuck in ignition - nocrank nostart nodash lights - no headlights -
Does anybody know where to start? The car was started and drove home from shop I just put in a new heater core - the passenger CEM was removed and cleaned with electronic spray as antifreeze saturated it! All fuses tested ok. This was done by me!
Everything was good before repair of heater core - after reassembling everything is when the problems started
No warning lights or gauges or lights come on in the dashboard!
No clicking sound from starter
The overhead light comes on, the electric seats move, the door locks work with separate key fob (not stuck in dash)
Also - with battery connected - I can turn key from position 1 and position 2 -
The brake vacuum assist pump turns and something in the motor - IAC or fuel - I have to disconnect the battery for it to stop
Removed key fob battery and replaced while stuck in ignition
Recharged battery to 12.81 volts.
Removed both battery cables from battery the connected for 30 minutes
Door locks open and close 5 plus times.
Checked fuses in engine bay -
Don't no how to check relays - or which ones to focus on
In the process of removing the steering wheel column lock device
I just don't know where to begin with this - it's seems like a fluke to have this happen after a repair and not be related?
Also nobody gives a definitive process to fix this problem - the posts end with no cause and fix described
Is there a schematic that I can follow the power to the ignition and CEM?
Very, very frustrated -
Thank you in advance.
Everything was good before repair of heater core - after reassembling everything is when the problems started
No warning lights or gauges or lights come on in the dashboard!
No clicking sound from starter
The overhead light comes on, the electric seats move, the door locks work with separate key fob (not stuck in dash)
Also - with battery connected - I can turn key from position 1 and position 2 -
The brake vacuum assist pump turns and something in the motor - IAC or fuel - I have to disconnect the battery for it to stop
Removed key fob battery and replaced while stuck in ignition
Recharged battery to 12.81 volts.
Removed both battery cables from battery the connected for 30 minutes
Door locks open and close 5 plus times.
Checked fuses in engine bay -
Don't no how to check relays - or which ones to focus on
In the process of removing the steering wheel column lock device
I just don't know where to begin with this - it's seems like a fluke to have this happen after a repair and not be related?
Also nobody gives a definitive process to fix this problem - the posts end with no cause and fix described
Is there a schematic that I can follow the power to the ignition and CEM?
Very, very frustrated -
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by jamesmmarr; 09-03-2021 at 08:44 AM. Reason: added new information
#2
#3
#4
And now you have electrical problems? Do I have the sequence of events correct?
Have you scanned the car with a compatible scanner (that can talk to all the control units) ?
Last edited by hoonk; 09-03-2021 at 08:42 AM.
#5
c70 convertible, 2001. My key is stuck, too, in ignition. It rotates to Start and On and Accessory and Off but not quite to where key will come out.
The car is driveable, but I cannot get key out.
No apparent cause, it just stuck. It has had problem for a month where it is sketchy inserting key.
How do I get it out? (No spare key)
(I had a problem once with a Toyota where the key went in but would not turn. On the Toyota that was due to something electrical that purposely jammed it, and the wires for that were in console between seats. The key tumbler was fine.)
I considered disconnecting the car battery and re-connecting, but that re-sets every electronic thing in car so I am reluctant to disconnect bat.
No spare key. The key FOB is on keyring.
Solutions, anyone?
Bud Budster Kayakeur
Gone from Harley to Volvo convertible.
The car is driveable, but I cannot get key out.
No apparent cause, it just stuck. It has had problem for a month where it is sketchy inserting key.
How do I get it out? (No spare key)
(I had a problem once with a Toyota where the key went in but would not turn. On the Toyota that was due to something electrical that purposely jammed it, and the wires for that were in console between seats. The key tumbler was fine.)
I considered disconnecting the car battery and re-connecting, but that re-sets every electronic thing in car so I am reluctant to disconnect bat.
No spare key. The key FOB is on keyring.
Solutions, anyone?
Bud Budster Kayakeur
Gone from Harley to Volvo convertible.
#6
I do not have access to a quality scanner - I have a basic OBD II Actron Scanner
Yes - the heater core tubes separated - antifreeze got into the CEM -
Disconnected battery
car was towed to mechanics shop
he let it sit for a month to dry out
he bypassed the heater core hoses
battery was dead had to recharge overnight
put it back in car - started up fine - drove it home
disconnected battery
car was sitting for about two weeks
removed CEM and cleaned it thoroughly - checked fuses - all ok
replaced heater core
installed CEM
Replaced the Automatic shifter glide
put all back together -
NO WARNING LIGHTS NO DASH LIGHTS NO RADIO NO HEATER ETC NO HEADLIGHT NO HORN
Key got stuck in ignition - position 1 and 2 only!
Yes - the heater core tubes separated - antifreeze got into the CEM -
Disconnected battery
car was towed to mechanics shop
he let it sit for a month to dry out
he bypassed the heater core hoses
battery was dead had to recharge overnight
put it back in car - started up fine - drove it home
disconnected battery
car was sitting for about two weeks
removed CEM and cleaned it thoroughly - checked fuses - all ok
replaced heater core
installed CEM
Replaced the Automatic shifter glide
put all back together -
NO WARNING LIGHTS NO DASH LIGHTS NO RADIO NO HEATER ETC NO HEADLIGHT NO HORN
Key got stuck in ignition - position 1 and 2 only!
#8
First step would be to make sure you plugged everything back in - and then scan the car with something that can talk to the whole car, not just obd stuff.
Even if you sent the CEM off to be repaired - a company such as xemodex would want to know what codes were stored.
You might contact them to see if they have any suggestions. xemodex.com if you're not familiar with them.
EDIT - use your VIDA, that's your best bet for info.
#9
Sure sounds like garden variety water (antifreeze) damage to the electronics. Cleaning a PC board is an iffy proposition at best, especially if it contains microelectronics (and nearly all modern automotive modules do). Moisture can get between the itty bitty little pins on the custom chips, and cause problems that are a nightmare to fix (without replacing the module, that is). Just hosing it down with cleaner and scrubbing it a bit isn't likely to fix a CEM that's been drenched in antifreeze, IMHO. Probably time to find a boneyard part.
#10
Problem Found - Fixed
OK - So it's fixed and I appreciate the comments that provided guidance which let me to the solution! I took the battery out and had it tested at the car parts store. It was less than a year old, and it actually had more charging amps than listed.
Put it back in car - excluded that as a potential problem.
I was exploring removing the steering column lock - and removed the shear bolts - and stopped at that point
Went back over the the CEM (fuse box) under glove box. Upon closer examination - I did not attach one connector - by the way it was on top and closest to the radio - a small one. Connected it and then connected the ground back up on the battery.
The key was no longer locked in the switch. the steering lock disengaged - the CAR STARTED!
Thanks - everybody appreciate it!
Put it back in car - excluded that as a potential problem.
I was exploring removing the steering column lock - and removed the shear bolts - and stopped at that point
Went back over the the CEM (fuse box) under glove box. Upon closer examination - I did not attach one connector - by the way it was on top and closest to the radio - a small one. Connected it and then connected the ground back up on the battery.
The key was no longer locked in the switch. the steering lock disengaged - the CAR STARTED!
Thanks - everybody appreciate it!
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