Hi,
I've a 2000 Volvo S40T (69k miles) and my check engine light is on. I also had a "flashing up arrow" but that went away once I pulled in the codes. Here are codes that I am seeing:

1. P0705 Transmission Range Sensor (PRNDL Input)
2. P1618 Fault in Lead between AW 50-52 and Motronic 4.3 (MIL Requested)

I tried searching the internet as well as this forum but didn't find any good hits. So, I was trying to see if anyone here can help me in fixing this issue? What could be the problem here?

Thanks!

 

I also should mention that recently, I replaced the coolant thermostat (since I had P0128 code) and passenger side head light.

May be, I loosened a wire or two there? Anyone got a picture?

 

Did you erase the codes to see if they returned? Maybe check the fuses? The trans is kind of under the pax headlight (in the general area) so it's possible something was knocked loose.

 

Thanks. I've since reset the codes and waiting for it to show up again.

 

A P0705 is a bad PNP switch. There are several ways to temporarily fix this problem but you may have to change it in the end. Check here to see if this helps: Volvo Performance Repairs And Modifications
It's a bit of a pain to get the plastic connector apart to fix this problem.

 

P0705, P1618. Thought I'd update this thread for the benefit of anyone who has these codes. This won't be a complete how-to, just some pointers. I have an alldatadiy subscription, $29.95 for three years, which I highly recommend for detailed procedures.

So.....my 2000 V40 threw these codes this morning. CEL, flashing arrow and transmission stuck in third gear. I disassembled the PNP switch (also known as the gear position sensor), opened it up, cleaned it and reassembled everything. Problem fixed.

To get to the PNP switch on top of the transmission, remove the battery and airbox and disconnect the gear shift cable. The PNP switch itself is a sealed unit with two halves held together by nine aluminum rivets. To separate the two halves, grind and dremel off the ends of the rivets and punch them out. I did this work in the engine compartment in the battery area as I didn't feel motivated to chase down the other end of the PNP switch harness connector.

Over a clean light-colored towel or cloth (small parts inside - don't want to lose any) carefully separate the two halves of the PNP switch. In one side is a double wiper with six contacts. Use a solvent (acetone) to clean everything, lightly sand all electrical contacts with very fine emery paper, reassemble with dielectric grease. To replace the rivets use M3-0.5 machine screws and nylon lock nuts. Machine screws must be minimum 16 mm long. Believe it or not you can buy these at Home Depot.

 

Thanks, migbro.

 

Do you have the same codes? It's quite intricate work with small parts to repair the PNP switch. I looked at it as a challenge but the easier fix by far would be a new PNP switch.

 

I am not have tranny shifting issues. Taking it back to the alignment shop. When did auto mechanics become so sloppy and incompetent???