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CODE P0172 (O2 detect too rich Bank 1)
- Replaced Fuel pump w/filter(Bosch OEM), MAF Sensor, Fuel Pressure Sensor, Spark Plugs (OEM), Had Injectors Prof cleaned.
-Cleared Code and it quickly came back on?
-Checked vacuum hoses even the Crankcase all cleared as good by mechanic.
-Note: pump makes loud squeal 2min after starting. Obnoxiously loud. Note:I replaced pump myself
-mech checked fuel pressure read 50-60psi
SUSPENSION PULL+CLUNK
- 3 Alignments in past 3 weeks after replacing items below:
-New Control Arms
-New Axles (Pass+Driver)
-New Brakes (4) rotos/pads and new front calipers
-Sway Links, Struts and Bushings checked by Mech and passed.
-New Upper Passenger side motor mount
-New tires. And remounted+balanced 2x
A) The steering wheel stays straight but car pulls hard left? After three alignments
B) Occasional “clunk” over small bumps or cocking steering wheel right or left while moving. Like one big bag and that’s it.
OTHER NOTES:
-New Timing Belt (kit) theee weeks ago. too
I approved your other post so this is a duplicate. My response:
Regarding the suspension - the thump going over speed bumps/ RR tracks etc suggest you have a strut mount/ strut bearing issue. This could also affect the alignment as your strut may be centered when an the alignment rack but off center when driving or turning. Do you see any signs of an accident (possibly a bent strut?). Usually when a tech says a strut is fine, they can only see if its leaking oil or has lost its rebound. You may want to consider replacing the front struts and redo the bushing/bearings.
On the mixture issue - any signs of an exhaust leak? This can impact the O2 sensor. How does the car idle? The throttle body may still be the cause - there's contacts that can get corroded so being clean is just the first step. Another thing to check out is the engine coolant temp sensor. easy enough to replace for $50, and you can do the t-stat at the same time. Also, don't give up on finding an intake air leak. You may need to do a smoke test as some of the rubber bits can be hidden under the manifold and other parts and not easily inspected.
Search the board for other posts on the P0172 - most solutions point to either vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, O2 sensors, ECT sensors, ETMs (electronic throttle mechanism), fuel pressure regulators/dampers or sensors (your model may not have a regulator...).
This is great info. Apologies on the duplication. My screen went blank and didn’t realize it needed approval. I’ll do the struts and bushings and have a smoke test performed. I will reply back on the results soon.
Could be a wheel bearing, particularly after replacing an axle (which of course requires unloading then reloading the bearings). Getting the right preload on the bearings is a little tricky - according to Volvo, you torque to 25 foot/pounds THEN turn the axle bolt 90°. And FWIW, most of the new (Chinese) axles aren't very good... I replaced my V50's axles only to have a shake crop up a couple thousand miles later. There could be a problem with the tie rods (inner or outer / ends) that could cause the clunk and possibly the pull. If you can discern any real movement "across" the tie rod, it's bad. You can normally feel the looseness if you hold the tie rod while someone cycles the steering wheel back and forth (as a mechanical "clunk").
-The axles are from Volvo and they were checked for proper specs. The “bang” or “clunk” I hear feels like it’s under the gas pedal or near pass side when that part rolls over bumps. It’s not all the time though. Very hit or miss.
- The Tie-Rods tested good but I will replace them anyway just to eliminate that.
I have parts on order. Old parts are off. Just waiting now. Also, need to troubleshoot P0172. Ordered new intake gaskets (individual green ones), Replaced Crankcase breather hose. Once done, I’ll go to a shop to see if they can narrow this code.
Hello- here is an update....
-Suspension corrected. The dealer didn’t torque the bolts properly. Clunk is gone.
-Code p0172 is still present. Dealer performed another diagnostic and smoke test (no vacuum leaks) haven’t figured out the issue. Remember Fuel pump, pressure sensor, MAF and so on all replaced as noted above. They are telling me to start w/fuel pressure sensor again. Could be wrong part that they sold me and will not honor an exchange because they aren’t 100% sure of what is driving this code. They ruled out O2 sensor too. The fuel pressure readings fluctuate from 35-69psi. When I start the car the fuel pump is normal (can’t hear it) and after 2-3 min it becomes very loud. So much so my neighbors hear it. Instead of having them charge me $500 to replace FPS, I ordered online and same issue. The original FPS part is Bosch 0 261 230 109(Volvo 8699448). Comes up as a black switch and the dealership gave me a white one. Also, the black part has an extra eyelet to connect and my original doesn’t??? Anyway, i read a few threads that the fuel pump noise was driven by the wrong or faulty FPS. I can keep ordering until something sticks but because these are electrical parts I can’t return. Below is my VIN# if that helps.
Okay. All issues are resolved.....
it was the Fuel Pressure Sensor. Third one was the charm
1) bosch Number: 0261230236 (Black)-correct FPS- Red arrow pictured $38.00 Autozone. Lol.
2) Volvo FPS- see image Blue arrow. That didn’t work. Hope the dealership will refund me. $256.00
3) Bosch aftermarket yellow arrow. $70.00
The car’s Original FPS (I threw out) was same as dealership in #2 (blue arrow). Weird that it didn’t work.
03-10-2019, 11:16 AM
Code P0172 + Suspension pull.
