I have recently cracked my rear springs and havea set ofintrax springs coming in http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...tt=coil+springis the link for what i purchased, I was wondering if these springs will fit in easily without having to tear my whole A-arm apart, and if anyone had any tips for me.

Second problem is that my exhaust is from my best assesment, torn. There is a footlong peice of braided metal that is after my headers but before my catalytic converter that is disconnected the end towards the rear of the car; I was wondering is there a easy fix to this or do I have to buy a whole new rear catalytic converter system? Does this braided metal serve any purpose or can i just get a straight pipe to delete all of this and just send it straight to my muffler.

 

Hello,

I cannot help in the case of the coil spring, so please wait till other members jump in. Also, please note that I'm not privy to the S40s, so my reply is based on my general knowledge.

Inside the braided metal, there is a "bellows" section that absorbs movement of the engine (the engine moves slightly under power/load/torque). If that section is torn, I would not recommend any repair but replace the entire header pipe assembly. I know it is not a cheap repair, but you are risking safety by unknowingly inhaling CO.

I hope this gives you some ideas.


JPN

 

Well lets start with the springs;
Yes you will have to remove the 'A-arms'.
You will need a set of spring compressors to compress the old springs before removeing the top nut and to install the new springs. BE CAREFUL these springs are under a lot of force.
The best way to remove these springs is toghter -still bolted to the 'A arms'-so you don't have to mess with the nuts holding the sway bar endlinks on to the sway bar.(almost always an effort in itself) Just remove the two bolts holding the sway bar itself in place.
The inner bolt assmbly on the 'A arm' has an eccentric nut for alginment adjustments. If you mark these very carfully before removalyoushouldn't need an alginment afterwards; be sure to mark through the black undercoating so your marksdon't get wiped away.
You'll have to wrangle the springs a little bit as well. When you try to compress them you will see what I mean.

The exhaust;
I agree with JPN;If that outer mesh is cracked but the inner "bellows" tubing isnt you should be fine. Do you see a large "muffler' looking piece after it on the same solid piece of pipe as the mesh? This is another
catalytic converter whichmakes it pricey.

 

unfortunately my springs were on back order so i'll have to find a new source to buy them, and does anyone know any places that sell a good volvo repair manual? As for the baffler, it is completely torn from itself, it looks like it's press fitted and it has just torn at one end. And it really does smell like gas in the cabin from it.

 

Well if it is torn and there is an exhuast leak is must be replace. CO poisioningis a bad way to die.

 

I wouldn't drive the car as it is. If you do not have options, however, I would try to find a CO indicator; a simple device that changes its colour upon contact with CO, and put it where you can see it while driving.

Also, be sure to switch off the "REC" button, as the air keeps circulating inside the cabin if you set the "REC". Set all other outside air to "open (refer to the owner's manual for specific application)" and as a TEMPORARY repair (meaningless than a week), you can wrap a sheet metal around the torn and use screw-to-tighten clamps on both ends.

I still wouldn't drive it though.


JPN

 

I find that it's really a pain to find online stores that have parts for my car in stock.. but I hopefully have the springs and a new catback system on it's way to my door. I know it's a terrible way to die but I have to get to work...Does anyone have a link for a nice s40 repair manual? I can't find any available to me and the Volvo dealer won't sell me it. I really appreciate your help

 

The only manual I have found is a UK version of the Haynes manual. Look up www.ipdusa.com for the manual.

I have cutout that braided part of the exhaust on a Honda and replaced it with a section of exhaust flex hose. It's a very poor method and by no means a permanent solution. It might keep you from passing out from CO poisoning until you can get it fixed correctly. I have also found flex joints off other cars at the junk yard (u-pull-it type yards) that you could weld in.