Crankshaft Timeing Mark 2000 S40
#1
Crankshaft Timeing Mark 2000 S40
Greetings.
I'm doing the head gasket on my 2000 S40. I lined up the 3 timing marks (Both cams and the crankshaft) prior to tearing down the engine. Once I removed the head I was surprised to see that the #1 cylinder was not a TDC. Rather, all 4 pistons level with each other.
So my question is; Is the crankshaft timing mark not TDC? Since this is an interference engine, it makes sense that it wouldn't be for ease of assembly. However, it is counter intuitive that the crankshaft timing mark would not be at TDC. I don't want to put the head back on until I know for sure.
Also, has anyone ever made a protractor tool for the head bolt torquing?
Thanks!
I'm doing the head gasket on my 2000 S40. I lined up the 3 timing marks (Both cams and the crankshaft) prior to tearing down the engine. Once I removed the head I was surprised to see that the #1 cylinder was not a TDC. Rather, all 4 pistons level with each other.
So my question is; Is the crankshaft timing mark not TDC? Since this is an interference engine, it makes sense that it wouldn't be for ease of assembly. However, it is counter intuitive that the crankshaft timing mark would not be at TDC. I don't want to put the head back on until I know for sure.
Also, has anyone ever made a protractor tool for the head bolt torquing?
Thanks!
#2
You are correct in that the #1 cylinder will not be at TDC due to some valves being open when you install the timing belt. You'll notice the cams are under tension from some valve springs. Much different that a pushrod engine.
For the head bolts I bought an angle guage from the local parts store. Use plenty of oil on the threads too. 130 degrees on top of the 2 steps of torque feels funny but has worked for me since July with no problems.
For the head bolts I bought an angle guage from the local parts store. Use plenty of oil on the threads too. 130 degrees on top of the 2 steps of torque feels funny but has worked for me since July with no problems.
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