My son's 2000 S40 w 180k (i know it seems like only my kid's Volvos having problems - wrong - I just neglect my own)
Started having a slow oil leak, that is slowly but surely became a big oil leak, somhere towards the back of the engine on the passenger side. So I asked (made) him crawl under and check it out. Of course he can't see where it leaking from, cause it's all covered in oil. I suspect it could be an oil pump or oil line o-ring, but I can't see myself either, mostly cause I am old (relatively) and don't bend or straighten up very well, at least right now
So I was going to suggest cleaning the oil from under the TB cover (it's not drenched but enough to make worry about practically new TB) with brake cleaner, then I thought it's gona pretty guarantee destroyed TB. So what should I have him clean that area (the rest id gona'b brake cleaner) with? Simple green or something?

Thanks in advance!

 

brake clean is fine, be sure to get the non-cloronaited (sorry weekend drinky time) type. I personally like carb cleaoner under the hood, evaporaltes quicker

 

Thanks again!

Whatever it takes to do less harm.

 

The leak on the back of the engine could be the O-ring on the oil return tube from the turbo to the block. They are notorious for leaking. You can find kits at Volvo specialty shops like IPD or FCP Groton.

Turbo Drain Pipe Seal Kit

It's not hard to replace so much as it's hard to get your tools into the tight places. My hands got scratched up quite a bit. You replace both the upper gasket and the lower O-ring.

 

Thanks Hudini!

So i take it, that it's not uncommon for the oil to be thrown from the oil line are towards the TB cover.

 

Any oil on the outside of the throttle body beauty cover is not normal. The leak I was talking about is on the back of the engine where the oil pan meets the block down low. I've seen oil INSIDE the throttle body and inside the intake tract. But outside? No. Mine is dusty in that area. No fluids at all.

 

Sorry I meant Timing Belt cover.

 

Lol, oh THAT tb.

There are several suspects near the timing belt. Inside the timing belt cover you have the CVVT gear on the exhaust cam and then the cam seals themselves. Outside the timing belt cover you have the CVVT solenoid and oil fill cap.

My CVVT gear started leaking oil from the little plunger looking thing. Then it started making a rattling sound. Shortly after that the timing belt slipped and bent some valves. That leak slings oil all over when you run the engine with the timing belt cover removed. The cam seals would leak down the face of the engine. You just have to start taking things apart to find where it's coming from. Is there any oil on top of the engine? (EDIT: Never take the CVVT gear off from the exhaust cam without a cam holder tool ($$). If you replace the cam seal you slip it over the entire cam from the other end.)

My leaking CVVT gear on the exhaust cam:

 

Hudini,
could you please elaborate a little of what is involved in replacing the CVVT gear.
I can see mine is leaking right from the same spot and I am not sure if I want to tackle it, especially that it needs special tools.
Thanks,

 

Replacement is not difficult if you have the right tool or even make your own. The basic plan is to remove the exhaust cam position sensor cover and exhaust cam reluctor wheel, lock exhaust cam in place with tool, loosen timing belt, remove CVVT gear. The problem is the cam locking tool as it's expensive. I made my own out of scrap steel. I still managed to screw up alignment slightly and had to move the CVVT gear about 4 times until I got it right. A very small misalignment will set the check engine light. 10 degrees is a ton of cam movement but only very little physical movement.

The exact issue is torque on the CVVT gear bolt. It's relatively high (IIRC 80 lbs). When you start torquing the bolt the whole exhaust cam wants to turn. The cam tool is supposed to hold the cam in place.

Making the tool is not overly difficult if you have tools like a workbench with vice, torch to heat the steel, drill and bits, and a grinder. Mark the position of the cam and CVVT gear relative to the head also.

 

Thanks for your help again!

I am taking it to a mechanic, can't afford to screw it up, nor do I have time or means of making the tool.
I don't recall where I read it, that someone used silicone to temporarily seal the plunger. Was it you Hudini?
I just want to make sure I can make it to the shop on my own without slipping the belt.
Thanks,

 

Not me. I bought a new CVVT gear. This was after removing the head and replacing the exhaust valves too. It was a very stressful time last summer.

 

Yea,
that's what I am trying to avoid....
I know my son don't care if he bends some valves because he know i'll have it fixed. My fault
Do you guys recommend replacing all the top engine seals at the same time?
I just can see that happening, I have the gear and the TB replaced and the next week some seal starts leaking.
Thanks!

 

Is there a set of seals that you'd recommend replacing? I am definitely replacing both of the front cam seals. I think you have to take the valve cover off in order to get to the rear cam seals, so not sure if it's worth it. My Vado won't open right, so I can't see if they are the same seals or not or how many other seals are there. Possibly the crank seal (front) and of course the timing belt again
I'd just hate to spend the bucks on this job and then have come back to redo it again.

 

I had the same leak. At first I just noticed it dripping down the timing belt cover onto the drive shaft and from there being distributed evenly over everything. I replaced the cam seals front and back. You don't have to take the head of or the cams out to do that. I also replaced the vvt solenoid gasket. The leak was still there. It ended up being the vvt sprocket. I tried to do it myself but tightening the centerbolt on the sprocket bend my cam tool and I ended up giving it to a shop to fix the timing.

 

Definitely both exhaust cam seals and the one intake cam seal behind the cam gear. The other end of the intake cam is a plug. There is no seal under it so don't remove the plug as that will destroy it (easy to replace but why if you don't have to).

 

I'll try to be concise and chronological.

Called a mobile mechanic. Ordered all the parts. He came replaced all of them including new TB. He had to do it twice (same day) because he said that he missed a tooth on the TB, that I doubt, I suspect he did not know how to deal with CVVT gear replacement. Of course I have no proof either way. I now have CEL on and the following two codes P0013, P0341. There was another code P0336 but now it's gone or at least I can't pull it with my reader. He came back to fix it today and still can't, he said he suspects it could be the solenoid (cam position sensor) or something else he just does not know. So now I have two choices (at least viable to me) - either go to a Volvo indi shop to diagnose and fix or a dealer just to get it diagnosed and then tell the mobile mechanic what to fix. If the gear i bought from FCP is defective, that he says sometimes happen, should I just call them and ask for the refund? I am not sure what is the better choice.

Any suggestions?
Thanks!

 

I'm betting the CVVT gear is out of alignment.

The dealer has the diagnostic equipment that can tell how far advanced or retarded but they usually charge a bunch just to hook up the car. Then more if they fix it.

The only true way to make absolutely sure of alignment is the cam holder tool. However, you can get a good idea of alignment with a straight edge placed inside the cut on the exhaust cam and aligned with the parting line on the cam cover/head. I used a wooden paint stick cut down to fit inside the cut on the cam. Once the cam is aligned with the parting line check the mark on the CVVT gear with the timing belt cover. It's important to remember that a very small 10* misalignment will hardly be noticeable to the eye but is HUGE to the engine.

 

Thanks Hudini,

I think I got it. I'll probably take it to the local indi shop and see what they say. Hope they won't charge if they can't fix it. I am triyng to avoid "parts guessing" when I was considering the dealer.
Assuming the gear and the TB would have to come off again when they discover the misalignment. Woulod you happen to have the correct procedure of setting the gear with the cams locked in place? I think I've read it somewhere that gear is not suppose to be moving at all during the installation and if it does you are suppose to "tap" on it to make it lock?..... then align all the markings with the cams.
Thanks!

 

You align the mark on the CVVT gear with the cut on the timing belt cover just as if you were R&R a timing belt. It's really that simple. Cam aligned and held in place with tool, CVVT aligned, bolt tightened. The CVVT may move a tiny bit as the bolt is tightened. You can compensate by having the mark on the CVVT gear slightly before the cut on the timing belt cover. Then when you tighten the CVVT gear it will move into it's final position.

If you really like tools there is a cam gear holder available. It fits between the teeth of the cam gears which keeps the cams from moving while you change the timing belt. This can also be used when tightening the CVVT gear to keep it from moving.
Kent-Moore Camshaft Locking Tool V9995714

When I installed my CVVT gear I had to assume it was in the position it would normally be when the engine is not running. I did not tap it or otherwise do anything to it other than bolt it on.