hey NOW guys,

I bought a 2007 s40 none turbo from the auction , I knew it wouldn't start so been the car is such a nice condition except mechanical shape ! took a chance..
this what I have done so far : removed spark plugs poured PB blaster into cylinders let it sit there hoping it would loosen it up!! I don't really know the reasons the only thing I found when draining the oil there : oil real black and some other fluid it might have been added to it probably to help get it loose.. no coolant or water signs in it
I m debating what NEXT ?? open to any suggestions willing to DO much of the work such as : removing heads to check it out .. any write ups on doing that ??

 

have you popped off the timing belt cover to have a look at the belt etc? I'd probably drop the oil pan before removing the head just to see if any metal bits etc are down there. When you say its frozen, I assume you tried to turn the crank bolt by hand with a breaker bar? If the car is a manual, you can also try putting it into 3rd gear and rock the car to see if it turns at all.

 

I did removed the timing belt cover - t-belt looks good and yes I did tried turning the crankshaft no luck on that yet !!
if it doesnt give in the next week , I will probably drop the oil pan its just is a bit of work involve doing that . I believe you have to remove the a/c compressor but that maybe coming next ?? although I should also try rocking it on third gear !! correction car is automatic so guess never mind this !!

thanks mt6127

 

Also, if you already have the plugs out, you can probably rent an inspection cam from Autozone etc to see what the combustion chambers look like.

 

wow ! thanks
I will do that I actually have one of those cameras , what would be the signs that I should be looking for ?

 

Holes, cracks, indentations, anything not supposed to be there.

 

thanks Hudini..

I did notice yesterday when I was pouring PB blaster into the cylinders one of them the liquid seemed to stayed up level didn't go down as the other four did.
today you can still see the level where the other ones you don't !\
maybe I should just start working on removing the oil pan ??? I m still gonna try getting the camera in the cylinders once is done charging !!

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/39-in-...ble-64085.html I want one...

 

so I decided today to just pull the oil pan.. couldn't get my inspection camera to work,,
what I found milky substance in pan , rust around pistons It doesn't look tremendously awful .. however I think is signs ITs a blown head gasket ..I tried turning the crankshaft it just WONT yet !! I have ordered KROIL oil I have heard that it does wonders .. it may just loosen it up.
also I noticed a vacuum tube that runs across the valve covers cracked open real bad ! wonder if water could have gotten in there and done some damage ?? I think my next step would be to remove the valve covers ??

 

Removing the cam cover is a process as it has many bolts. It holds down the cams against the valve spring pressure so you have to be careful not to crack or bend it. There is a tool to keep even pressure across the cam cover as you remove it.

 

oh boy ! i m really a newbie at volvos , NO valve covers CAM covers right! haha what tool will that be you mentioned ? and If can't turn the Crankshaft to line it up on marks to remove t-belt and .. to remove the cylinder head ? any ideas
I m getting KROIL OIL tomorrow maybe that will loosen up the cylinders !!

 

well once you have the head off, it should be straight forward to reset the cam and crank to the timing marks. I"d think even if you can get the crank to turn, the pistons have to come out to inspect/replace the rings and clean up the cylinder walls etc. If you can't unfreeze, then you are looking at a complete rebuild or swap.

 

I have ordered the cam locking tool set so soon as i get it i will keep working on removing the top section . also i started removing all the bolts - I have read there are two sections for the top will the be correct ? if so what exactly will the top section consist of ? when i look at it from rear end where the cam seals are ! across the cams covers I don't see how those separates from the rest of the block ? please help me understand this I m a bit confuse there ?? haha .
also i got my KROIL oil yesterday poured it into the cylinders If that doesn't help loosen the pistons well them i guess ? it would be a total rebuilt project or swapp

 

curious if the cam locking tool is needed when reassembling the head and cam cover. A lot of the procedure write ups talk about a cam cover "pull-down" tool - not sure if that's in the cam lock kit but there's some write ups on how people made their own. Installing Cam Cover - FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior - Volvospeed Forums

 

so I worked on the car today after work - I was able to loosen up the top section , marked the cams and the crankshaft best I could since the crankshaft wont even turn , removed the exhaust manifold on the front , how about the back is there any more exhaust manifold ? and the bolts ? oh yea there is still the exhaust manifold on the back left to DO ..

 

so I finally removed the cylinder head ,, as probably expected pistons and cylinder lots of rust on the walls .. my guess : long ago blown head gasket so they let the car parked for a long time .;.
so what NOW if I can get rid of the rust ! suggestions what to solution to use " eastwood rust dissolver " seen good positive response or any luck with other solutions
. them WHAT if I get them loose
how do I know for sure the pistons wont leak ? suggestions and ideas please

 

You will need to pop out the pistons then hone the cylinder walls to clean the rust and "etch" them (gives the oil something to grab to make a good seal (google for a cylinder hone tool, they are not expensive) then measure to see what size rings are required. If the walls are really bad, you best leave the block to a machine shop as they can rebore and then fit oversized pistons/rings - rings usually come in "standard" so you may need to do some searching. If you get to the point of pulling the engine out to go to a machine shop, thats where you need to decide if you are simply going to replace the block and go shopping (car-part.com is a good resource for searching yards)

 

thanks mt6127 ,

I m getting some metal rescue from autozone tomorrow and pour it into the cylinders , hoping it will get rid of some of the rust ..
how would you go about removing the pistons ? sorry never done this job before . ..

 

with the head off and the oil pan off, simply undo the rod cap's bolts and push the piston/rod up and out. Make a note of which bearing goes to which rod - inspect for any wear/scoring. Then get a honing tool (they range in price from like $20 to over $100) gives you an idea of what the hone looks like - which fits a power drill to remove any glaze and imperfections. You'll need a ring compressor tool to get the piston to slide back in. You will want to use new rings as well... I'd stuff a rag at the bottom of the piston sleeve to catch any debris, then clean all and use plenty of oil when reassembling.

 

oh yea ! I was looking at some youtube videos , and that's exactly how they removed them - do you think is a good idea to use a wire brush wheel as in this video ?- I went to autozone and bought metal rescue rust remover gel I have read it works . I hate to do damage to the walls with the wire brush ! I m going to harborfreight this afternoon looking for the honing tool , ring compressor tool and possibly cylinder ridge reamer which I have been looking at videos, I may have to use it to get rid of any imperfections just in case the honing tool don't DO the job !
I m actually kind of eager to get to work on this project - It will be good learning experience ..

I m also gathering a list of parts from FCP euro such as : pistons rings, head gasket set , oil pan reseal kit , t-belt kit , ,,,,, whatr are your recommendations as far other source to get the stuff .