I don't think a wire brush will damage the walls - you are going to use a hone that is something like 200 grit sandpaper to remove the top layer of the metal and the wire brush is only going to knock off the surface rust. Ridge reamers are for just that - on older engines (older as in cast iron blocks which didn't have treated and hardened cylinder walls), they would actually wear to the point where you could feel a difference between the top of the stroke where the rings went to and the top part of the bore. I'd be surprised if you have a ridge at all - mostly this seems to be a rust issue where somebody didn't care for the engine after the head gasket went. once you start cleaning the rust off you'll be able to tell. You may want to see if you can rent a cylinder bore micrometer from Autozone and measure at various spots to see if there's any wide differences from spec.

 

update : got help and we have removed the block and transmission out of the car - have separated the transmission from the block however HOW do I remove the flywheel and torque converter off the block ??
IF I m NOT able to turn the crankshaft still to get to the torx screws !!

 

can you remove the crank from the block with the flywheel still attached to allow you to disconnect the rods? ie remove the rod end caps, then all the main caps ?

 

oh yea! mt6127 .
that's what though we might have to DO next.. I haven't set up it up on the engine stand yet .. I got the JEGS 80040 Red Engine Stand 1000 lbs Capacity 360 Degree Head Motor Stand ,, still trying to figure out what type of bolts i need to get to use to attach it to the engine ???

 

if you are going to bolt the stand to where the transmission attaches to the block, you can probably take the bolts you removed and match threads at the hardware store for a length you need.

 

hey mt6127 ,

sorry its been a year since I last worked on this project , I m about to get back to it .. I m purchasing Brush Research FLEX-HONE Cylinder Hone BC Series Silicon Carbide ,

iGaging Dial Bore Gauge 2"-6"/0.0005" Deep Engine Cylinder Measurement

and

B-9 Chem Dip Parts Cleaner w/Basket and Armlock SCAQMD to clean up the cylinder walls

questions after i m done honing and measuring walls - how will I know what sizes rings and bearings I will need ? or can i get away with oem rings and re-using same bearings ?

 

for the bearings, I'm assuming you mean the crank bearings? when you disassemble you should mark all the pistons and rods as to their number (1-5). remove the bearing caps and again number them along with the bearings. you'll need a micrometer set to measure and inspect for an burrs or deep scores in the crank (which if too bad, it may be toast) You may want to have a machine shop have a look at it. I'd also check out what oversizes are available. Similarly for the cylinder walls - you need to hone and then measure at multiple points per cylinder and compare to factory specs. Again if the walls are scored up you may need a machine shop to rebore or ream the walls. Once you get your bore all clean and measured, you should be able to match up to ring sizes ie standard vs oversized. I've never done this on a Volvo but old school (like when building a ChevyV8 block), you need to fit the rings as well. there's a spec for the end to end clearance so you have to place the ring inside the bore then measure the end gap - and use a gap tool to file off the ends until the gap is in spec. So again here is its best to start by doing research on the specs for the cylinder bore, what ring sizes match your bore, what tool(s) are needed.

So as to whether you can get away with OEM rings really depends on how they measure up. If the gap is too large, you'll likely get some leakage. As to reusing bearings - that'll depend on how the existing ones look and whether there is any serious scoring and how the crank looks and measures up.

Last thought - make sure all the oil ports are clean. Since you have all this stuff apart, you want to make sure the reassembled bits are well lubricated. Also read up on how to (re)prime the oil pump. again not sure if this is an issue with Volvo pumps but you don't want to get the engine fully assembled only to learn the oil pressure won't come up.

 

Oops ! I did take the cylinder pistons ,connecting rods , bearings apart DONT think I marked which one goes where !!! - I will have to double check on that ! and I take it I will have to remove the crank block apart from the cylinder block to inspect it ( have not done yet ) what if I don't have the exact order for the, pistons, rods and bearings ?

also I was cleaning the pistons and cylinder walls with the B9 chem dip cleaner - they are starting to clean up , i did it for a couple of hours , did not want to soak the over night may do some damage !
i will continue cleaning them tomorrow ..cylinder walls have cleaned up about half way I DONT SEE ANY SCORING ON THE WALLS ..still i see some hard rust build up which i m hoping i can remove....

i will take some pictures tomorrow and post them
.
.thank you again mt6127 for all your help ..

 

fingers crossed you may be in luck that as you suggested they had a head gasket leak, and let the car sit rusting the tops of the cylinders. if the rods and crank bearings were still in oil they are likely to be in good shape.

 

i did not feel good last two day allergies and ear infection.. I will get back to it hopefully tomorrow , did soak the pistons on the B9 cleaner and sprayed cylinders wall a bit more , they are cleaning up more each day ..
plan of attack: separate crankshaft block from the cylinder block , so I start honing the cylinder walls , hopefully after lightly honing the walls will still be within SPECS so oem rings can used again.

honestly I would say most of the bearings still look good - problem is I did not mark them as I removed them or maybe I did write something on them it got wiped out after cleaning them..
is there a way to measure the bearings to determine what goes where ? I know the pistons have a number on them .. perhaps this information would be on VIDA , I m also getting a hayne workshop manual for S40

:

 

Haynes manuals can be found online - try googling "volvo s40 haynes PDF" and see if you find anything. the idea of numbering the bearings is to match them to their original spot with the crank shaft to have consistent gaps where the bearings/crank broke in together. same when replacing pistons. Nothing that you'd find in a manual. point becomes less of a concern if you were to replace the rings (which should be gap checked) or replacing the bearings.

 

so this coming week planning on start honing the cylinders - we think that should be enough and I will able to stay within specs so I can get some new stock rings .!!
pardon me for asking another "dumb questions" do I still need to GAP those rings or will they come PRE-GAP and any recommendations where to get them ??

thanks

 

The rings should be fine to install as-is. Just make sure to install them as specified (I assume that means with the gaps "clocked" so they're not in line with each other, and with an appropriate compressor).

 

"clocked" any specific position where the GAPS should in relation to one another and by compressor ! do you mean a tool to be used to place them in the cylinders ?

any suggestions where to buy them from ?

 

By clocking, the ring gaps are placed on different places on the piston. Ie if the piston was the face of the clock, with 9 PM pointing to the nose of the engine, the top compression ring points between 1-2, the second compression ring between 7-8, the upper oil ring between 10-11 and the lower oil ring between 3-4.

This is from the Haynes for a gen 1 S40...

 

GREAT ..appreciate the info .. I ordered the Blue haynes book for the vehicle two weeks ago is coming tomorrow ! I m able now to print out from VIDA . however don't think I have seem this info there ! I started printing lots of stuff out already.. also I found several sources where I can get my parts such as FCP euro, volvoparts, eEuroparts....and possibly my favorite Rockauto for belts kits .. I thinking " IF " I can re-use major parts and NOT having to DO any profesional work done at machine shops 1000 should be enough to get all parts needed ..
around 300 for all rings sets , t-belts kits , gaskets kits ????

 

cost of parts varies greatly between Genuine Volvo, OEM, and budget after market. If you stick with name brand after market you should do fine. FCP also typically lists out who the OEM provider is. For example, if you get a Gates or Conti timing belt, you are getting a quality name brand part...

My recommendation is to do plenty of research on how to source parts that are correct for your serial number. Example:

https://www.volvowholesaleparts.com/...-serial-number