Hello everybody?

I am working on a 2000 Volvo S40. I bought the car with broken timing belt and few valves were bent. And of course, like everybody out there, I took off the exhaust camshaft pulley. I am surfing the web almost 6 hours and couldn't find any good explanation.

First of all, I found out the both camshafts end need to be lined up. But there is still question? Because when you line up the exhaust camshaft you have 2 choices: 1. when you line up the end of a cam (there is a little spoke or something that goes on the upper right side look,at the picture) and the first cylinder's exhaust valve opens.
2. or if turn it 180 degrees you have the little spoke on the lower left side and fourth cylinder's exhaust valve opens.

Which one supposed to be open when you time it. 1st cylinder's or 4th cylinder's?

Therefore, I timed it with opening the 1st cylinder's exhaust valve which means the little spoke goes on the upper right side. And the car is not starting!

Please HELP!!!

 

You want the valves closed when #1 is at TDC and firing. Notch goes down.

 

No. I guess the volvos not like that. When at TDC the timing mark on the crankshaft doesn't match.

 

Notice how the horizontal cut is slightly off center on the cam? In your picture you can see how the bottom edge of the cut is level with the parting line of the cam holder and head? Notice the top edge of the cut is above the parting line? This is 180* out. Spin the cam 1/2 turn and reposition your CVVT hub to align with the timing marks. Then slowly turn the engine by hand to make sure nothing binds. If the valves are going to hit the pistons you want to find out at this point. If all checks good then I'd do a wet compression check (drops of oil in the cylinder).

When my timing belt slipped and bent 8 exhaust valves I too removed the CVVT hub. What a PITA! When putting mine back together I eyeballed the horizontal cut to the parting line. The engine started and ran but soon set the check engine light for the cam sensor. It turns out eyeballing the cam position is not good enough. I then cut a wooden paint stir stick to fit the horizontal cut on the cam. Then I set the top edge of the paint stick to the parting line exactly and made a cam holder tool so I could tighten the CVVT hub without the whole thing moving. As the cam cut is off center, the bottom of the paint stick was below the parting line and the top was exactly even which allowed a much more precise adjustment.

 

Hey thank you for the comment. I guess I have to turn the camshaft 180 degrees. Because when I try to start the it wasn't firing. I am little afraid that I bent the valves again but I turned it few times with my hand and it wasn't jamming or something. Therefore, the 1st cylinders exhaust cam was almost fully open and the 4th cylinder cam was on the top. So there no chance to hit bent the valves. (I hope). I live in Colorado, and its freezing right now below 9 farenheit!!! I guess I have to wait for few days cause I am working outside. lol

Anyway thanx for the comment I get back to you when start the damn volvo!

 

Lol, good luck! I was working on mine in the middle of the summer heat in Tennessee in July. Better than cold I think, but no fun either way.

The absolute easiest way to make sure all is right is to buy the cam holder tool. I've never seen it below $500 though. One of these days someone with cash needs to buy the tool, then sell it to the next guy for $450, then $400. If we all just pass it around eventually it'll be paid off and we can trade it for shipping costs. If only I had the cash.