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Help with timing belt

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Old 02-07-2018 | 06:55 PM
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Default Help with timing belt

Hoping to get some feedback on what I did wrong. So, I replaced the timing belt and now every time I start the car on a cold start there is a loud clunk/popping noise that stays on for like 10 seconds then goes away. I'm assuming this had to do with the timing belt change because it didn't do it before. I'm thinking the timing moved on me but I can say for sure. I plan on taking it back off and redoing everything. My question is, if i take the belt back off how do I make sure the timing is correct? What all needs to align in order for the belt to go back on correctly? This is for my 2004 volvo s40 with a 2.4L engine. Also is buying a cam gear tool to hold everything in place a good idea? Thanks in advance
 
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Old 02-07-2018 | 10:37 PM
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From: Tenn
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Old 02-26-2018 | 11:49 PM
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So after aligning the crank with the timing marks on the block I noticed that the cam gears are way off. I rotated the engine several times and no matter what whenever the crank is aligned, both cam gears are completely off. How can i get the cam gears back aligned with everything else?
 
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Old 02-27-2018 | 12:46 AM
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on older ... its usually line the crank up, then the cam after confirming #1 is TDC
 
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Old 02-27-2018 | 07:31 AM
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Is it just lining up the crank and spinning the cams or do i have to remove the valve cover and loosen some bolts up there to let the came rotate freely?
 
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Old 02-27-2018 | 04:05 PM
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Go back and review the vid from bout the 10 min mark
 
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Old 02-27-2018 | 06:54 PM
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At this point, the only way to do this right is to start over. You are also going to need the cam locking tool so that you know absolutely without a doubt that your cams are in the right position.

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...PsP/s-l225.jpg

First, we need to know which cam has the VVT actuator (the big cam pulley that is shown on the right in the video). You may have one, the other, or both.

Turn the engine over so that the cam timing marks are CLOSEST to the marks on the cam belt cover AND the engine is perfectly at TDC. At this point, leave the engine alone and remove the cam plug or position sensor at the rear of the engine for each cam. There is a bit of hardware to remove back there so just go with it.

Once you expose the rear cam ports, and you are SURE that the timing marks are as close as you can get them to the cam cover marks, remove the belt. Do not move the crankshaft at all.

You need to attach the cam holding tool to the rear of each cam. Don't be surprised if your cams are a few degrees off. You'll have to move each into position so that the locking tool fits in the slots in the rear of the cams. Then, bolt the tool together so that each cam's lock is part of a fixed piece (you'll understand when you see the tool).

On the front of the engine, the VVT (big cam pulley) has about 20 degrees of movement without the cam moving when it is locked down. The key is to turn the cam pulleys to the RIGHT until they stop against their internal limit. At that point, the timing marks should align. If your VVT is spring loaded, then you will have to rotate it to the right to check the alignment and when you take your hand off it, it will spring back to the LEFT. The one without the VVT should like up just fine.

Now, move the VVT to the RIGHT limit position (hold it there if it is spring loaded) and install the belt. Do a quick visual to make sure the cam pulleys are lined up and correct as needed by removing/reinstalling the belt.

Now, remove the cam holding tool at the rear. I also recommend removing the spark plugs as it will make turning the engine over much easier. Turn the engine over twice to assure that everything is lined up.

Then, do a final adjustment on the belt tensioner and put it back together. Should run fine.

I'll PM you my number if you have questions.
 
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Old 02-27-2018 | 07:54 PM
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Thank you for the respond.
 
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