Hey guys, I'm Gavin, just picked up a 2000 s40 with a few issues that I'm trying to sort out.

What I'm looking for are either recommendations or parts #'s if you've got em' for a few items before I turn to eBay, rockauto and the like...

Here goes!

1. Valve cover gasket recommendations? I've got oil in #3 plug well, I'm guessing that's the culprit

2. Plug wires and Coils recommendations? One of my coils was so frail from oil saturation that it actually broke apart as I was pulling it out to look at it.. So, yeah... I wasn't sure if I could get by with bougicard wires and coils from ebay or if I should stick to Volvo OEM coils ?

3. Brake pad recommendations?

Thanks guys! I'm ordering parts asap, so any input is appreciated!

 

What motor do you have? I did not know post '98 cars had wires.

I'm pretty sure that the cover on the motor is secured with lots of screws and is sealed with anaerobic sealant. The Volvo stuff or Permatex stuff is best. You will also need a spark plug o-ring. If it were me, I would get enough o-rings for all of the cylinders.

If you do NOT have coil packs, and have cap, rotor and wires, the Bougicard brand is what most people use. I'm pretty sure they make them for Volvo.

Pads, I like Akebono.

Robert

 

There is no valve cover gasket as such. The 1.9L engine has a cam cover that is machined to hold the cams in place. Each spark plug hole has an o-ring under the cam cover. It's a pain to remove the cam cover as it holds the cam seals too. Do you have any oil on top of the cam cover? It has been known for oil leaks on top of the cam cover to find it's way down into a spark plug hole. Stuff like a split gasket on the oil fill cap, clogged PCV line, or leaking CVVT solenoid.

I have bought coils from Autozone and found OEM Volvo coils in the Duralast box. That was a shocker. Last time though I got the house brand. I bought my wires from IPD. I really don't have a recommendation though. Whatever is best for your wallet.

Volvo OEM pads are quietest but also leave lots of brake dust. The carbon-metallic pads need heat before they work best. Good old semi-metallic pads seem to provide the best overall performance.

 

Ok, got the parts, installed them fine but now I've got a new issue. Car won't start, it'll try to turn over but that's as far as it goes. I took off the fuel rail and inspected the injectors, there was plenty of fuel in the fuel rail. I'm not sure if the injectors are not firing or fuel pump issue or electrical issue.

What should I check and what's the best way to test the injectors?

Also drivers side mirror and window don't work at all. Suggestions?

 

Check the fuses first. The fuel pump fuse is up by the air cleaner housing with the other under hood fuses. The window fuse is on the interior fuse panel under the pax side.

If the fuses are good then check for spark. The standard plug against the head method works fine using either plug that does not have a coil above.

Fuel pressure is checked with the shrader valve and a fuel pressure tester. These are available for cheap at Harbor Freight. I think you can even rent them from an auto parts store like Autozone. Not sure about that though.

Fuel injectors firing are checked with noid lights. A set of 6 goes for $12 at Advance Auto.

Which parts did you change?

 

I changed the battery, the plugs, wires and coils.

I took off the fuel rail and there was plenty of fuel that was in the rail, which is why I was thinking injectors, however I noticed something when I was turning on the car... the red security light on the dash flashes constantly when I'm trying to turn the car over, could it be that there's a anti theft device that prevents the injectors from firing that could be the problem?

And if so how does one test and fix that?

 

Still need help with this guys.

Can the security system disengage the injectors from firing?

 

Can you check for trouble codes?

Fuel in the fuel rail does not mean it's under pressure. My 2001 just flat out quit while driving last week. The cause was a failed fuel pump. ($300 from Autozone, ouch) "The pressure regulator on the fuel rail (6) keeps a constant pressure to the injectors of 410 kPa (59.5 psi)."

Nothing should be flashing red while cranking the car. I'm trying to access VIDA to find out if the alarm system also disables fuel or ignition.

"6 Control module immobilizer Communication only within the first two seconds between Engine control module (ECM) and immobilizer control module. Then immobilizer control module's internal relays switches to connecting to diagnostics socket (k-line) for diagnostics communication with Engine control module (ECM). "

11 Control module immobilizer Electronic immobilizer type 3 based on the challenge-response principle.

12 Diagnostic socket (DLC) No direct connection to DLC. Troubleshooting is always done via control module immobilizer. The communication cable between Engine control module (ECM)and Control module immobilizer is used for both diagnostics and immobilizer function.