I am trying to replace the camshaft seals of the front of the engine. I was going to put a cam locking tool on the back end but before that I had to take off (I’m not sure what the name of the part is) that gray piece held on with a bolt. When I took a wench to it the belt slipped and the exhaust side gear move about 1/4in. also I had a friend helping me he took of the serpentine belt and turned the crank shaft to line up all the marks. When he did that then removed the belt the camshaft gears shifted about 1/4in back to the left. What I’m trying to figure out is if you move the crank shaft without the belt on how can I be sure all the timing is correct or get it right? I think I have a real mess on my hands and I need help please.

 

Did you get a locking pin with your camshaft lock?

The locking pin goes in behind the starter. Once in place you turn the crankshaft until it hits the pin. Once that is done you know the crankshaft is positioned properly. There is also a mark you can see behind the crankshaft pulley that lines up with a ridge on the oil pump(engine side). I didn't have a pin so I just used that mark.

Then you install the camshaft lock on the rear of the engine. With both of these in place you should be good. Moving a 1/4" or so wouldn't have hurt anything.

I forgot to add: What year is your S40? The pre 2004.5's are a little different.

Also I think that grey peice you mentioned is the camshaft position sensor collar. It was on the back side of the exhaust cam? And when you say the belt slipped, did it actually jump teeth? Or did the cam gear itself just move... Or did the camshaft move independantly from the cam gear? On later model S40's the VVT gear is spring loaded and can move, so the camshaft could move without the gear moving, thats why i asked.

 

Do I have to make sure all the marks al in the same position and if so do I have to do that with the belt on? the marks on the camshaft gears are in the same position but dont know if the crank shaft mark is in the same as the gear up top. also if he moved the crank shaft with the belt off about what i ment to say was 1/4 turn one way the the same back it that going to mess with the timing?
its a 2001 S40
when I turned the wrench it did jump teeth and I can tell its spring loaded but it went so far that it felt like it moved moved and jumed forward quite a bit enough that the marks are now a bit off from eachother.

 

On the 2001's the VTT gear locks in its resting position, so it should not move on its own.

Honestly since you have to take the gears off anyway to change the seals, those marks don't matter too much IMO. When putting the gears back on I left mine loose, then put the new belt on and tentioned it. As long as you have the crank in the right position and the cams locked from behind everything will be timed correctly. What you are aiming for is getting the cam gears neutral to the camshafts (not pulling the belt one way or the other). Otherwise, why would they have not just keyed the gears so that the marks always line up? I hope that makes sense.

 

How can I remove the sensor collar without the camshaft moving?

 

I think you will have to find a way of holding the camshaft gear in place. I removed mine before even touching the timing belt so nothing moved, but I don't remember that 10mm bolt beimg that tight either.

If it were me I would make a wedge of wood that you could getly tap down in between the 2 gears. That should hold them tight enough.

Also I found out that the collar is actually called a reluctor. So you could say your reluctor is reluctant! lol! <sigh>... nope, lol some more!

 

Are you talking about this part you removed the bolt? (reluctor)



Did you remove the bolt on this part (CVVT gear) ?



If yes on the reluctor and no on the CVVT gear, then line up the marks on the CVVT cam gear and intake cam gear with the marks on the plastic timing belt cover first. You may have to wedge a piece of wood or a cam gear locking tool between the gears to hold the cams from moving.



Then line up the crank gear mark with the timing mark on the front of the engine cover:



Now install your timing belt making sure the gears stay aligned with the marks. Adjust the tensioner to the middle area. It's very hard to see this normally. You have to make a guess since you view it at an angle. Close is good enough.

 

How do I remove the exhaust side sprocket. I have a Torx 55 but it does't want to turn and im scared to force it or it that a cap that just pops off?

 

if it does have threads are they backwads or normal?

 

That is the CVVT gear and it's a cap. There is a single large bolt underneath. HOWEVER, please do not remove the CVVT gear bolt without the cam locking tool.
Camshaft Cylinder Head Timing Alignment Locking Tool Fits Volvo on Sale | eBay

The CVVT gear on the exhaust cam can be mounted in any position because it has no woodruff key or notches or anything else to judge alignment relative to the cam. It will spin 360 degrees. You MUST lock the exhaust cam so that 1: it does not move when torquing the bolt, and 2: it stays in a fixed position so that remounting the CVVT gear is a matter of lining up the timing marks because you KNOW the cam is correctly aligned. This I learned the hard way.

And mark the CVVT gear relative to the head. With the cam locked and the gear marked, then after replacing the cam seal you can simply line up the CVVT gear to your reference marks and bolt it back on. You do not want to guess. This is an interference engine. I've already bent 8 valves with a slipped timing belt.

 

I have everything locked in on both ends. im just trying to loosen that torx screw and it feels like its really tight. I was unsure if the threads are oppisite or not it seems really hard to loosen up.

 

It's torqued in the clockwise direction (facing the bolt) to 66 ft lbs. You may need to use a long breaker bar to get it loose. The outer, screwed in cap is torqued to something like 26 ft lbs. Pretty easy to break loose. It has a seal that should be renewed if possible. Again, the cams should be locked before you attempt to remove it.

FWIW, I just did this job on my GF's 2000 V40. It was leaking badly from the VVT gear and exhaust cam seal. When you reinstall the timing belt, with the cams locked and the crank timing marks aligned, don't tighten the VVT gear center bolt until you have the belt slipped over all the gears and the tensioner adjusted. Just snug the center bolt on the VVT gear up enough so the gear can't wobble lossely, but can turn freely on the tapered end of the cam. Once you have the tensioner adjusted, with the cams still locked in back, torque the center bolt to 66 ft lbs and install the screw-in cam plug & seal. Then remove your cam lock tool and do the two turns of the crank, plus 1/4 turn, then back 1/4 turn routine to check your tensioner position. All your marks should align properly and the tensioner should be spot on.

On my first attempt I made the mistake of tightening the VVT gear center bolt too soon and missed the timing by about 1/2 a tooth. I learned that the factory cam seal replacement procedure suggests loosening the bolts on both the cam gears. If you think about it, the marks on the cam gears are really irrelevant, providing you have the cams and the crank aligned, preferably locked into position. I had removed the intake cam gear on the first attempt and discovered the intake cam seal was fine. On the second go, per the factory procedure, I left the intake cam and exhaust cam gears slightly loose and the belt went right on, with no slack between the crank gear and intake gear, or between the two cam gears. I then adjusted the tensioner and torqued the cam gears to spec. I did the 2 turns + 1/4 clockwise & back 1/4 turn routine. All the marks lined up perfectly and the tensioner setting was on the money. Tricky business, but it works.

Hope this helps!

 

Hudini why do you keep putting the same post up? its not helping