After MANY other fixes on a low mileage (67000) but really abused 2001 S40 1.9T (timing gear, timing belt, CVVT), the car threw a couple more codes, and developed a terrible miss under load.

Cleaned the MAF, one code gone. Found a good used wiring harness for the coils, at a Pick-n-Pull fo all of $15.00 and all codes are gone.

So, I have momentarily won the battle, and the car runs like a dream.


Time to sell.....

 

Good job. You've won the latest battle but the war goes on......

I'm putting my 2000 V40 back together this weekend, finally. Reassembled struts, new passenger side drive axle, new steering rack boot, new oil pan o-rings, turbo drain tube seals, transmission oil cooler hoses, oil cooler hoses, bottom engine mounts. Sheesh.

 

Migs, curious how the war with the struts goes - did you buy that super HD spring compressor?

This pic may be useful.

MT

 

I didn't see your post until just now - sorry.

Yes, I bought a Branick strut compressor on Craig's List and that thing rocks. (I'm taking my death sticks to the dump today.) The only problem with the struts was the upper spring seats were totally misaligned and that is now fixed. I was able to reuse all the parts, even the strut bearing on the side where the strut had been assembled metal-to-metal.

The struts are back on the car which is waiting for a few miscellaneous parts. I decided to replace the oil cooler as that appears to be a common failure item and I found some bushings on the lower engine mount beam that were rusted to nothing - $17.00 each plus shipping for two steel bushings from tascaparts.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my daughter won't immediately send all this work to the junkyard. Years ago I personally put $3,000 of parts on a Dodge Ram pickup a month before my son wrecked it.

Looking at the pic you posted it's for Sport and Dynamic models whatever they are. I don't really understand it either as the upper strut mount is free to rotate when the strut is out of the car, so that drawing is only helpful with the strut in the car. When assembling the struts you want to line up the three alignment holes in the strut itself with the three alignment holes in the upper spring seat as that is the only orientation in which the lower bearing mounting surface is perpendicular to the strut rod. Assemble the strut any other way and the lower bearing surface on the upper spring seat and the upper bearing surface on the strut mount are not parallel. Yet another sh!tty design from Volvo with a designed-in failure mode.

 

Sooooo,


Wouldn't you know, after I won the battle, I lost the war (of the CEL).


One of the codes indicated the MAF, so I bought some cleaner, hosed that bad boy down, and all was well for some 300 miles. Luckily long enough to get the car inspected, so I'm legal for another year.

But, the same code has come up again.

I guess I'll try spraying the MAF down once again, and then if it throws a code again, I'll break down and buy a new MAF.

Funny that I consistently average 31 MPG with all these little nagging issues.


On a "make it look better thing:

I also need new seat covers to replace the crap leather Volvo used, and have found a complete cloth set that will cost all of $25.00. That may be my next endeavor.



As to all the strut work:

My car needs struts too, but I'm calling the harsh ride "road feel", and am leaving things alone.

 

That approach ends when the coil spring breaks.

I have had THREE broken coil springs on this car. I replaced the fourth before it broke. Never had a coil spring break before on any vehicle.