Lemme pick your brains here...I'm planning on changing my timing belt, t/b tensioner, t/b idler and water pump on my '01 S40 1.9T. I've done multiple other timing belts in my day on other cars, but never a modern Volvo. I can certainly get the engine to TDC and can remove the belt and other componants without an issue. My concern is that, I think I've heard (maybe incorrectly) that upon t/b removal that the VVT tensioner on the exhaust cam moves the sprocket in relation to the cam itself if some sort of a holding tool is not used. I see Volvo timing belt tool/holder kits out there for sale that cover a myriad of years and models but am not sure if that only pertains to setting up a new/rebuilt head on the motor (or when a timing belt failure occurs) when the cams/crank are already outta sink and you're basically starting from scratch. Do I need this kit in order to to my simple (not-failed) timing belt job?

 

No requirement for the cam holder tool for a simple timing belt replacement. Nice to have but not required. $500 nice last I checked.

You do not get TDC when your crank timing mark is lined up as this is an interference engine and you do not want valves touching pistons. All pistons are down in their bores with the crank timing mark lined up. You are then free to move the cams into position without fear of open valves hitting pistons.

The CVVT solenoid moves the CVVT exhaust cam gear via oil pressure on a running engine. Any movement by spring pressure on a non-running engine will not be a factor once the crank timing mark is lined up. You simply move the cam gears where you need them. EDIT: Do not loosen the CVVT gear on the exhaust cam. This is where the cam holder tools are required. It's a major PITA to realign the cam and CVVT gear. This I know from personal experience the hard way.

Timing belt replacement for me included removing the harmonic balancer to line up the crank timing mark precisely. But another forum member posted you could line up the crank timing mark visually from above and simply slip the timing belt around the hb and onto the crank gear. Your choice. The hb can be a pain to remove.

 

That's correct you do not need the cam sprocket tool to hold the cams. What will happen is one of the cams will turn a bit when you remove the belt but it's not that big a deal. Line the crank pulley with the mark on the engine and line up the two marks for each of the cams. You will have to put the timing belt cover back on to line up the cam marks (I hope I'm remembering correctly). Loosen the tensioner bolt a little and then let the tension out of the tensioner with your allen wrench. You do not have to remove the harmonic balancer but it does make the job easier. When you remove the belt notice one of the cams will move a little. Just be careful and watch closely how it moves so you can move it back when you put the new belt on. I used a 3/8" drive socket with a 10mm socket to hold the cam in place while I installed the new belt. It's not that difficult just tight.

 

Hello I have a question about this same pulley. I am doing a timing belt job and that protruding bump actually sits between two teeth not just one. I am on a 2007 2.4i. Is this still the same mark I need to line up to the mark on the engine block?

 

If I understand your question correctly then yes, you would line up the crank gear mark with the mark on the block. Have you found 2 marks on your crank gear?

After the new timing belt is installed then slowly and carefully turn the engine by hand to make sure you have no binding. It always helps to remove the spark plugs for this.

 

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Yeah I am pretty sure that there are two marks between the "raised protrusion" (Boss?). It is sure hard to see though

 

Is that your old timing belt? If so then line up the cam gear marks and see where that leaves your crank gear. Just from the camera angle it does appear your "80% sure" has a very slight cut in the crank gear tooth.

I guess the secret here is to get it as close as you can on all 3 marks then wedge a cam holder tool (or carved piece of wood) between the cam gears to hold everything from moving when you remove the old belt.

I've yet to use mine but it sure is pretty. It's not listed for the 2005+ engines though.
Kent-Moore Camshaft Locking Tool V9995714

Here is the IPD version:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5127/...t-locking-tool

 

Yeah it is the old belt. I have been reluctant to remove it until I was sure of the markings. When I line up the raised boss that is between the teeth its makes the two cam marks appear to be almost perfectly lined up (within less than 1/2 tooth) so I am pretty sure that I am good to go.

One last question. If I do somehow mess up and something moves without my catching it how noticeable is interfierence when I am rotating the crank by hand checking things? Is it something That I will be able to tell? I do have plugs out so turning is eaiser.

Thanks for all your help.

 

You should be lining up the raised boss with the timing mark on the engine block. The two cuts on the crank pulley teeth are redundant. The timing mark on the engine block is quite small.

I recently did the timing belt on my 2000 V40. I strongly recommend buying a good quality metal cam lock tool . If you don't use a cam lock tool, both camshafts will rotate and make it more difficult to get everything properly timed again.

Also, mark the edge of the old belt before you take it off and then transfer the marks to the new belt before you put it on. That way you will be sure all is correct.

 

Having the belt off a tooth won't hit. It just won't run as well as before and will most likely set a Check Engine light. If it were off far enough to hit then you would not be able to rotate the engine past a certain point. That's why you rotate the engine slowly. Here is what my 2001 looked like after a slipped belt from a VVT oil leak. The little bright oval shaped spots on the left are the marks from contact with the exhaust valves.