Hi,

I've got an 02 S40. This morning on my way into work my car started to make a concerning soft rattle sound that would stop when ever I would idle at a light. After I got about half way to my work the noise went away however once I got to work a friend pointed out the noise again, this time it was while it was idling... I popped the hood and it sounded like it was coming from the timing belt area. I've got an oil leak inside the timing belt casing. I'm sad to say that even though I checked the oil level 4 days ago and it was slightly below the low notch, apparently the leak became slightly worse and the oil is now below the dip stick. I added my spare quart after I found that out and cranked. The car struggled to start and continued to make the rattle. I checked the level again and still low. Tried starting the car to get some oil from the store and it will try to start but it won't.

I doubt its the battery as all the lights work and its not showing any of those symptoms. My plugs are maybe 30k old. There is plenty of gas. The sound didn't sound like piston slap.


Only things I can think of is: maybe water in the gas but I'm not sure that sound would happen from that, oil flooding the engine, loss of compression. I doubt its seized, the engine was cold when I started it and didn't run it that long after adding oil...

If anyone has any ideas or something similar happen please shoot me some ideas cause I feel like I'm reaching with mine...

 

That rattle sounds like it might be the CVVT Solenoid. If you can get her running again try unplugging the solenoid and see if the rattle goes away. You will get a CEL doing this but it won't hurt anything.

As for the oil level issue, how low was the oil once you added a quart? Still not touching the dipstick or just not up to the fill line? Most cars bottom of the dipstick means a quart low, so if you added a quart and the oil level came up on the dipstick somewhere you were only 1-1.5 quarts low, and I don't think that would have done any damage for the short period of time you drove it. If its still not touching the dipstick... could be an issue.

Not sure about the non starting, any CEL's? If the timing belt slipped enough to keep it from starting you should have one. Did you take the TB cover off all the way? You could check for missing/damaged teeth. If it slipped usually there will be damage to some of the teeth. I would start at the beginning and check everything, fuel pump/pressure; spark plugs, pull them out and visually check each one; spark plug wires; get a volt meter and check your battery, and the connections. Just for fun get a buddy to 'jump' you anyway just to make sure, been down that road a few times.

 

Check your compression. When my 2001 had the same problems you describe it turned out the timing belt had slipped a couple of teeth. Since this is an interference engine this resulted in 8 bent exhaust valves.

A compression check will tell you for certain.

 

I removed the timing cover, teeth look fine on the belt but it is covered in oil from the leak. I replaced the spark plugs, second plug from the left had oil on the threads, not a ton but a little and the wires are good. No CEL's were on when it was driving, even with the issues. Removed the battery and tested it at Autozone (picking up plugs why not); fully charged and no problems. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator about 5 years ago and both ignition coils thanks to a misdiagnosis on my part. I added more oil just in case I got it to move soon. After I added that 1 quart the first time it was still not touching the stick. I added that before I started the car was stone cold, cooled off for five hours then I added the oil, cranked it (it struggled a bit) and it ran for maybe one minute tops just to let the new oil circulate before I checked the stick. Wouldn't run again after that.

If my timing belt did slip would it not have completely stopped running when it happened or if nothing else screwed with my rpms if the valves were bent? My rpms were steady and it didn't just die. I turned it off to check the oil level and could not restart it again.

I will be checking my fuel pressure today in hopes the pump is bad and also do a compression test. I can hear the pump going but it might not be working, I've read a few cases like that... I'll check out the CVVT Solenoid once it running like you suggested.

 

If you got lucky maybe it only slipped 1 or 2 teeth and did not bend anything yet. Try rotating the crank slowly to line up the timing marks on the cam gears to check.

The oil covering the timing belt is the problem. The belt should be dry at all times. The oil comes from the little plunger thing on the CVVT gear. The o-ring inside has failed and hot oil is getting out. Some have attempted a fix by replacing the o-ring. No one has posted a proper size replacement that I have read.

Plunger leaking on my CVVT gear:


Outer teeth removed to expose plunger:


Plunger itself with old o-ring pieces:

 

is there anyway I can just purchased the plunger or do I have to buy a bigger part. we have ruled out the camshaft position sensor and I believe you are right about my timing being off... my compression seems to be fine however. I will be replacing my timing belt and adjusting my timing once I find out about when I find out if i can just buy that plunger that's leaking oil.

 

No. Volvo nor anyone else sells the plunger or the o-ring that goes on it. If it's leaking the only way to really correct the problem is replace the entire CVVT Gear. I replaced mine in January and found a new in the box CVVT Gear on eBay for $165.

Another problem is that you need to buy a pretty pricey cam lock tool in order to get the CVVT gear on and off. And in order to use the tool you have to pull quite a bit of parts off of the back of the engine. I found that part to be a real PITA.

Also... since you are pulling the CVVT gear... you may as well replace the oil seal behind it. And since you have to pull the cam position sensor, you may as well replace that seal too... and the seal behind the intake cam... This can go on and on... I love my Volvo!

 

Forgot to post... I fixed the main problem of not starting. It was the timing belt. I believe it was due to one of the tensioner pulley breaking. the timing had slipped after the pulley broke. I replaced with a new timing belt and it works fine... however my maf sensor decided to stop working the next day... and just today the hose leading from my coolant reservoir busted you wouldn't happen to know the specs on that hose so I can replace it with an aftermarket hose?

 

Livens is bang on with his observations - if you don't take a time out to assess whether the seals and/or VVT need to be replaced you'll be back in there in 6 weeks time taking half of the #$%% in your engine bay out just to get at the same parts again (I experienced this first hand).

If the tensioner was the issue, that doesn't explain the oil on your belt - did you replace the vvt and/or seals while you were in there? if not, be sure to monitor your belt carefully for signs of the oil soaking it once more.