Exact same problem with my 2008 S40. common problem and wiring loom can be bought from dealership for around £40 (UK)

 

So at first my trunk would not open and then it started to make a sound that was sort of like a grinding my car is an 08 s40 what is the grinding ?

 

Thanks very much for the great information about getting into the boot that wouldn't open.
The advice you have given was excellent and I can now open the boot. There were 2 wires that were broken and are now repaired.

To others reading Goofy Goalies post... he was spot on and just follow the easy instructions.

Once again many thanks

 

so I read all the posts about the trunk failures in the 2006 XC90 and thought I'd add my two cents worth... The trunk latch on the exterior of the hatch can get stuck forward, I think due to the rubber gasket surround. If you push on the latch and there is no "give" to it, make sure that it is unlocked, then push inward with finger tips while simultaneously pushing forward, towards the the car. This should allow you to then push, pull and pop open hatch. Other than this issue, which is an easy fix, we LOVE our Volvo....but seriously Volvo, why no trunk latch from the dash. You got soooo many things right, it seems like this issue was a really dumb design flaw. Like a brilliant surgeon, forgetting to wash their hands.

 

My 2007 Volvo S40 trunk lock will not open. The wiring must be OK as the lock "Buzzes" when I press the release button.

I have removed the cover from inside the trunk, but how do I get the lock to release. If I undo the wire connector and the 3 bolts I will still have the problem with the lock attached to the car!

Any suggestions?

T-Cab

(if you are wondering where T-Cab comes from it is my 1962 Studebaker T-Cab pickup!)

 

Hi T-Cab,

Once trunk is open and lock is still attached to car, if i remember it is reasonably easy to manually over-ride the lock. Reason for failure is possible a failure in the wiring loom as it passes from the trunk into the main chasis. look for the flexible rubber conduit close to the left had hinge (uk spec here so may be different). Wires tend to break in this area.

Hope this helps

Sandy

S40 2.0D 2007

 

TRUNK WON'T OPEN … SOLVED!!!
(2011 VOLVO c70 t5 Convertible)

OMG this was bothering me for weeks! After thinking about it, I realized that it started happening (trunk wouldn't release) when I began locking the glove box. This is a safety valet feature!!! As soon as I unlocked the glove box, the trunk button worked again! \/

 

2006 S40 ~ USA model ~ with the same issue...

History: This seemed to start on a very cold day in the winter where I suspected some ice potentially jamming the mechanism. Tried putting the car in the garage and was eventually able to get it open by applying liberal downward force. From that point forward, we've had issues. It has worked at times, but not consistently.

Step #1: Replaced the actuator/lock mechanism with a second-hand unit via eBay.
Step #2: Replaced the wire harness with new, Volvo-branded exact replacement.

Not used often, but function was fairly consistent until August. Tied a rope to the emergency-release and hoped that it would "fix itself" again ;-)
Instead, started to have problems getting it to start until we concluded that the trunk light was on and that was draining the battery. Disconnected that light and concluded that we had an alignment issue and/or the replacement actuator (2nd hand) was faulty.

Step #3: Replaced the actuator/lock with a Volvo-branded, new replacement. No change.

Tried original wire harness and still doesn't work.
Tried original actuator and still doesn't work.

Tested continuity of original wire harness and ohm meter suggests that that is fine.

Put trunk light back in and that is off when trunk is closed.

From inside trunk, tested voltage to 4-wire actuator plug and I get 13-ish volts when testing (from left to right) 1-2, 1-3 and 1-4.
Makes me think I'm getting power to the actuator.

Checked valet key/glove compartment. Turned on/off/on/off. Still won't work.

I'm flummoxed.
Any suggestions?

I'm not "good" with car repair/diagnosing, but I'm not horrible.
And I'm open to bringing this to my independent shop for more expertise and support.
I'd LOVE to get this fixed in the next day so I can send my son back with "his" car rather than having to swap with him, but that's not a disastrous outcome, if needed.

 

I have a 2006 that had the spliced wires under the rubber boot attached to the lid. I fixed it in about half an hour thanks to help here.

 

In my case the issue was a broken nylon gear inside the lock assembly of my 2008 S40.
I was able to open the security screw with a T20 Torx Bit and then I immediately saw the gear was broken.
As a temp fix I had an M3 screw that I superglued down the hollow shaft to hold the broken parts together.
Before I put it back in a modeled the part in CAD and I have ordered a 3D Printed part from shapeways made of bronze/silver.
Here is a link if anyone is interested: https://www.shapeways.com/product/74...k-latch-repair
You can also find the part on ebay from Turkey but it's identical so I figured the same issue would happen down the road.
Hopefully this info helps as it saved me over $100 on buying a whole new assembly.

 

I have a 2016 s60 trunk won't open inless I pull the cord in the trunk... Anyone have an idea what it could be ?