All,

I have a 2006 S40 T5. This week have had problems where I turn the key and it wont start. Wont even turn over. sometimes multiple tries starting, it will start. Finally, dome lights were dim, so I think the battery was dead. so I put it on a charger, and get it started. No check engine lights lit.

Next day I waltz over to the local auto store, and replace the battery(was original, time to replace anyway). they test the alternator output, and all is fine.

Today, my wife gets in the car, and has to turn the key a couple times before it will start. I have not yet checked to see if the battery is low, but it is brand new - only 2 days old.

Only thing done to the car this week was that I had it detailed. I know they degreased under the hood.

Any ideas of what I could do next? I already have an appt at the dealership for next week.

 

When it does start, is it very weak? As in it seems to just barely turn over enough to start the car? If so you may need to get the starter checked out. I replaced mine about a year ago. That may be a good place to start.

 

Oh, and by the way. I took it in to autozone and had them put it on the tester and it passed, but I had already bought the part special order and decided that it was time anyway and it proved to solve the problem. The motion of the gear moving in and out of the starter really isn't tested under load so I am guessing that was the problem.

 

Ok, So this morning I have an appt to get the car looked at. I get in the car, and the battery appears dead(dome lights weak, dash LCD's wont light). I get it jump started to drive it in to the dealer. They tell me they have codes that indicate the "Start control Module" is failing.

Would that make it seem like the battery was dead? Could a faulty start control module drain the battery with the key out?

I assume part of the job of the Start control module is to energize the starting circuit, plus power to the rest of the car.

 

Just wanted to report back. The dealer replaced the ignition switch(they called it the Start control unit), and the problem went away. There were codes for it that dont turn on the information light.

I mentioned that I first replaced the battery since it was still original.

Last insult after the part replacement was being told that I needed to spend another $30 to have the windows and headlamps "recalibrated" since I had replaced the battery.

BTW, it was $500 parts and labor to fix. Problem has not reoccurred yet.